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Cursed!!! hitted something

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kapla View Drop Down
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    Posted: February-28-2011 at 5:32pm
Originally posted by OverMyHead OverMyHead wrote:

Looks great, Let us know how it works on the water and trailer, I plan to copy I am just concerned abot the smaller panel having the mass to stay in place. I will let you be the guinny pig.


well tests were fine!! works great, I lifted the dog house and put the lift arm in place and no movement on the floor panel...I also tried full open and also no floot movement.
The joint is under the rear seat so is not visible at all. Pics to follow at nigth
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sagres88 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sagres88 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2011 at 4:30pm
Ok, mine is on ± 500 engine hours from when they put a new shaft and prop in there. I will wait till next winter when i'm planning to do a transmission rebuilt. Thanks for the info.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2011 at 3:49pm
Bart,
Alot really depends on how well the shaft to strut alignment is maintained. I've seen them go in one season but on the average, I'd say 600 to 700 running hours in clean water is a good figure.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sagres88 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2011 at 2:42pm
before i start doing anything, what is the average lifetime of those bearings?
i'm only boating in fresh clean water so no sand/beaching or anything.
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TRBenj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2011 at 1:18pm
Originally posted by kapla kapla wrote:


it is indeed much simpler to remove the shaft anyway as you note Tim...
Always speaking if you have a dual taper shaft...single taper is more tricky though..

A single taper shaft is a little bit more of a PITA, but its not aweful. Getting it in and out is much simpler than trying to get the strut back perfectly aligned... thats not an easy task to do with the boat completeley gutted, let alone if the shaft and log hose are still installed!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2011 at 1:00pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by kapla kapla wrote:

what you can do is remove the strut w/o removing the shaft, then replace the bearing and put the strut back in place..

That approach opens up a whole different can of worms when it comes time to realign the drivetrain. It is much simpler to just remove the shaft.


it is indeed much simpler to remove the shaft anyway as you note Tim...
Always speaking if you have a dual taper shaft...single taper is more tricky though..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2011 at 11:14am
Originally posted by kapla kapla wrote:

what you can do is remove the strut w/o removing the shaft, then replace the bearing and put the strut back in place..

That approach opens up a whole different can of worms when it comes time to realign the drivetrain. It is much simpler to just remove the shaft.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sagres88 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2011 at 5:38am
that could work as well. i will have a look today. i took a week off from work to work an the boat like wetsanding and smaller things like this.
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kapla View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2011 at 9:55pm
what you can do is remove the strut w/o removing the shaft, then replace the bearing and put the strut back in place..
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sagres88 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sagres88 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2011 at 8:42pm
too bad..thanks for the fast reply!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2011 at 8:35pm
Originally posted by sagres88 sagres88 wrote:

hi guys,

Is it possible to get the strut bearing in and out with the shaft still in? i'm not really in to taking the shaft out.


Nope it is what it is...
"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sagres88 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2011 at 8:28pm
hi guys,

Is it possible to get the strut bearing in and out with the shaft still in? i'm not really in to taking the shaft out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OverMyHead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2011 at 10:48am
Looks great, Let us know how it works on the water and trailer, I plan to copy I am just concerned abot the smaller panel having the mass to stay in place. I will let you be the guinny pig.
For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kristof Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2011 at 6:54am
Nice job Seb.
- Gun control means: using BOTH hands!
- Money doesn't make one happy, but when it rains cats and dogs, it's still better to cry in a Porsche than on a bicycle...

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2011 at 10:41pm
I ended up using a black plastic trim. The joint of the panels is supposed to be 1" below the rear seat so unless removed it won't be visible..


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kapla View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2011 at 5:35pm
to do the wrap i would need to recarpet both panels again..I need to see If I have some left overs, and if its enought to do both panels.
And ordering more carpet is PIA it was a special order and need to aske a certain qty of it just to make so kinda no go.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kristof Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2011 at 5:07pm
Looking forward to the pics...


- Gun control means: using BOTH hands!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2011 at 4:35pm
You could also just wrap the carpet around that seam and attach it underneath if you didn't want to mess with the aluminum trim piece. It may hide better that way also. Whichever way, show us some pics of the results.
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kapla View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2011 at 4:32pm
Originally posted by OverMyHead OverMyHead wrote:

I saw your plan, sounded interesting. How do you like the results?


still to put it back in the boat..
I´ll post some pics in the night of whats done till now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2011 at 4:31pm
Originally posted by storm34 storm34 wrote:

Kap, thats a great idea. Not sure why it hasnt been done before, or why i didnt think of it!?!?!

Let me know how it goes and I may be doing the same to my Ski Tique.


i went ahead and cut the panel in 2..I went first and cut the carpet with the cutter..then grabbed the circular saw and splitted the panel in half.
The the idea was to lay a coat of resin and cloth on the exposed edges of the wood..but my resin accelerator dryed, need to buy some in order to finish...I will also put an alluminun edge on the joint to give a finish and so that the carpet don´t peel off..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OverMyHead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-20-2011 at 2:06am
I saw your plan, sounded interesting. How do you like the results?
For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-20-2011 at 2:04am
basically I cut the rear removable floor paned in half so I can service the sahft coupling W/o removingt the rear seat
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OverMyHead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-20-2011 at 12:38am
Pics, and how does it work?
For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-19-2011 at 11:53pm
it's summer!! boat gotta be always ready....
I also got to do the floor board mod..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OverMyHead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-19-2011 at 11:25pm
Congrats, you work fast, I would still be sulking.
For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-19-2011 at 10:38pm
got to test drive the boat today...prior to the rain, works like a charm..smooth as silk..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Luchog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2011 at 10:25pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2011 at 9:56pm
well..down here we have lots of debris floating around in the water and tides also make depth changes a lot..so it's "normal" for us to hit something or ground it at least once every year if not more..so having the two panels would save some time.
Yes the seem would definetely be visible w/o the rear seat but I'd do it on the edge of the seat so when it's in position there's no visible joint.

Might tackle the task on the winter.

pictures of today's assy
old bearing was directly vulcanized in the strut


bare strut

sliding it in...


shaft in
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2011 at 7:28pm
Its definitely a pain to pull that rear panel off- the motorbox, rear seat and any rear panels need to come out first. Your idea would certainly make it easier... but really, if youre not constantly hitting stuff, that panel almost never has to come up. The only real maintenance item under there is the packing- and that hardly ever needs attention. If you split that panel, you'll be left with an unsightly seam in the floor when the rear seat is out.

Just a counterargument!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2011 at 7:18pm
Kap, thats a great idea. Not sure why it hasnt been done before, or why i didnt think of it!?!?!

Let me know how it goes and I may be doing the same to my Ski Tique.
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