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Building Detached Garage?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote levinmark Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Building Detached Garage?
    Posted: March-05-2011 at 10:42pm
I guess I do sound kinda cheap (I've heard that before), but in reality one friend is an operator who has a concrete buisness on the side with a foreman from his company, his brother is an electrician, and another friend is owner of a plumbing company. He'll provide the radiant set-up and hook me up with the right heater. The only downfall is the one friend who is a homebuilder pissed everyone elso off and is no longer friends with us. Therefore having the construction contracted out. I know we could probably build it ourselves, but everyone is pretty busy now, and I'm a landscaper so I will definetly have no time. Gotta get that boat on the water as much as possible when we can!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2011 at 8:41pm

I use a propane forced hot air "hot dawg" styled heater in my workshop.I set the thermostat at 37deg. when I'm not in there and just bump it up when I need to work in there.It warms up quick.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter1234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2011 at 11:43am
thats right .. and if you use a secondary source such as a hot dawg l.p or nat gas or any forced hot air you can leave the slab at a low set point and use the hot air for a quick blast for the times you are only there for an hr or two Radiant floor when used for primarily floor working comfort is fine at 58 to 63 deg. you will (your feet and knees) will feel like you are in heaven. the operating cost is significantly less used in this fashion
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2011 at 9:04am
Originally posted by levinmark levinmark wrote:

new concrete install by friends, with the tubes for radiant heating(not installing the tankless heater yet)

Be carefull with a tankless. They are designed for domestic hot water and are not meant for radiant due to the controls. If you want cheap, go with a standard domestic hot water tank - many do.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2011 at 8:59am
Originally posted by OverMyHead OverMyHead wrote:

styro insulation and heavy poly under the slab will stop the floor from seasonal "sweating" your cement guys will hate you for the poly because it is very slippery during the process but it is great long term.

Dave,
With under slap insulation, the poly vapor barier is not needed. Tape the ridgid insulation seams or go with the tongue & groove. Also, I suggest not wasting money on expanded polystyrene. It's cheap but the R factor really is bad. Go with extruded polystyrene or better yet if you want the max R's, polyisocyanurate. Don't even consider one of the bubble types. Also, don't forget insulating the perimeter of the slab. Inside the outer wall is prefered.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lfskizzer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2011 at 12:23am
My father and myself are building our garage 38x30. It has a 18x10 garage door and a 10x10 door. Upstairs is a 1 bedroom apartment with 12x12 deck out the back. Cathedral cielings in living room and kitchen and bedroom. Den and bathroom are a bit narrower but oh well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OverMyHead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2011 at 12:01am
A large conduit buried from the house utility area to the garage will allow pulling future electrical,cable, who knows, styro insulation and heavy poly under the slab will stop the floor from seasonal "sweating" your cement guys will hate you for the poly because it is very slippery during the process but it is great long term.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dochockey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2011 at 11:15pm
Before you do anything have a plan , you know that old sayin fail to plan plan to fail?   I'm a contractor in Michigan if your pulling a permit don't be afraid to call the inspector before you start they will be glad to help.

My self I would run all the rough-ins for future add on's now it will save time and money. I'm talking about what has already been said like the man cave stuff water for the bar, cable for multiple tv's, water hot and cold, running big ticket electrical items, lighting, pull down's, radiant floor heat, storage.

Its never big enough?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2011 at 10:37pm

I built a 24x40 garage with a 24x24 sized downstairs under the back half.The rear of the garage is partitioned off to make a 24x18 heated workshop over the downstairs. The back part is of pole barn construction downstairs with 2x6 insulated walls upstairs for the workshop.The roof has 4/12 pitch (trusses 4ft on center)so it was easy to walk on.I did everything with my dad except the plywood on the roof.A friend came over with his air nailer to take care of that part.
I'd like to say it was done in a couple of months but it took the better part of a couple of years part time to finish.Useable after a couple of months but not finished.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote levinmark Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2011 at 10:33pm
I'm demoing our 22x22 next week and going to put up a 26x26. That about as big as I can go with variances and our lot size. Anyway, 26x26 with 9' walls, new concrete install by friends, with the tubes for radiant heating(not installing the tankless heater yet), floor drain and gonna tie in the sewer for a crapper and sink myself, friend wire it up, and were at about $15,000. I'm handy, but I really dont have the time to experiement with building a garage, so that will be contracted to a builder.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2011 at 5:45pm
Originally posted by OverMyHead OverMyHead wrote:

Joel, you have that big compressor, if you dont pick up a few nailers and do this bad boy yourself I will be dissapointed. A detached structure would not be that difficult, hire the slab, keep the roof slope low enough to walk it and you and some buddies should be able to knock out the framing/sheathing in a few days. Should make a great man cave.


I was thinking the same thing regarding the compressor- elaborate manifold, nailers, etc. We're leaning that way.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OverMyHead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2011 at 3:09am
Joel, you have that big compressor, if you dont pick up a few nailers and do this bad boy yourself I will be dissapointed. A detached structure would not be that difficult, hire the slab, keep the roof slope low enough to walk it and you and some buddies should be able to knock out the framing/sheathing in a few days. Should make a great man cave.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter1234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-03-2011 at 5:50pm
any one ever notice when it comes to blogs about bbq,tools,orbuilding projects the postings just pour in? I am so glad to be a man
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2011 at 9:42pm
If you're going with a 24x24, make it 26' wide. A full 2 feet between the garage doors looks better, that's what I did, well I went 26x26.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote emccallum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2011 at 9:39pm
I have a two post asymetrical lift in my shop. Make sure you contact a lift company and get the specs on the lift. Dimensions as well as concrete thickness. Trusses must be high and wide enough, and the garage door should be installed so that it goes as close to the ceiling as possible. You will want to be able to use the lift with the garage door open. You will also need 220 power for the lift. Lots of things to consider, make it as big as possible. A lift takes up a lot of room, and my boat trailer barely makes it between the posts. Too tight a squeeze to be useful.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2011 at 8:42pm
Fins, I like your idea about 2 sections to the garage. I've been thinking about that myself. Time for a new one where I can just work on them and not worry about bunging up the ones sitting nearby.

Heat's a great idea. When we built mine, I sent the sill sealer back because I never thought I'd want/need to work on boats in the winter. That was before CCF.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter1234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2011 at 6:59pm
I would definitely do the second floor and then do trussed roof system . the one thing i did in mine and would never do without is before the slab pour install radiant tubing. bring it all into a corner. even if you use forced hot air until you can do the radiant (either primary or secondary) its not too much to buy now and install yourself you will be glad its in there when you get older . do the boiler or water heater 5 yrs from now it doesnt matter..oh and dont forget pics when you do it so when you put lift in you know where it is
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FINS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2011 at 6:51pm
Riley- I was daydreaming about how many boats I could fit in there when I was designing it! One side of the guest house for the workshop and project boats, the other side to store finished ones! At least his garage is filled to the top with vintage and new Blue Oval products! Very impressive collection, but does anyone really need four Boss 429's that will never see the road?

Here in Washington, we just built a 40'x40' shop with 12' ceilings for my brother-in-law. He is a foundation contractor so that part was "free", but he only has $18,000 into it all sheetrocked and stained concrete slab. If they are getting $50k for garages in your area, it may be time for me to move to your area!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2011 at 4:52pm
Originally posted by FINS FINS wrote:

Go as big as you can possibly afford! I built a 40'x52' and filled it quickly. I would LOVE to find an old industrial building and rent part and store boats in the other.

Here is a shot of a garage project I am working on for a client. It is an 18 car garage (yes 18, and that is before he puts in storage lifts) with an attached 725 square foot guest house with windows that look down into the "show" garage section. The entire building is wrapped in stone trying to make it look like a 1930's-40's compound.



That's a heck of a project. Too bad he's probably into Ferraris and not Correct Crafts. I'd have it full of $1,000 boats.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2011 at 4:30pm
Yeah when I built mine, I was debating between either a 3 car or an 18 car. I settled for the 3.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bbishop1974 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2011 at 3:33pm
after getting several quotes in the 50k range i was about to give up on getting a garage.then i met a guy thru a co worker who was building on the side.i got a 24'x32' with full walk up 2nd floor,vinyl sided to match the house,4 windows,1 side door,1 oversize garage door(cant remember spec) for 25k w/no electric.very happy with the work,all 2x6,it took him 2 or 3 months,but worth the wait.that was about 6 years ago and i have moved since then.the house sits forclosed after the new owners walked away after 6 months.i miss that garage
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FINS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2011 at 3:11pm
Go as big as you can possibly afford! I built a 40'x52' and filled it quickly. I would LOVE to find an old industrial building and rent part and store boats in the other.

Here is a shot of a garage project I am working on for a client. It is an 18 car garage (yes 18, and that is before he puts in storage lifts) with an attached 725 square foot guest house with windows that look down into the "show" garage section. The entire building is wrapped in stone trying to make it look like a 1930's-40's compound.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2011 at 2:52pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Joel,
The only good thing I can say about the "package" garage guys is they will know what's allowed in your village/city. Check it out. You may not be allowed to put up a steel building??? This is for down here and not up north correct?


It's for down here. You're right about the codes. One of the guys I talked to was rattling off codes left and right which was nice- he knew what he was doing for sure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2011 at 2:13pm
Contracting it all out, you could get close to $50k honestly if you're having electrical/insulation/heating. Maybe just a tad high but I would assume things are a tad higher up near Chicago as well.

We just built a 32'wide x 36'deep garage with room-in-attic trusses, which gave us another 12'x36' room upstairs (you should seriously consider doing this, it's cheap storage). Some of the stuff I did myself to save some money, but most of it was hired out. Details:

Site prep: Surveyors laid out the site plan, and came out placed the stakes. I rented a mini-excavator to do the site prep, and dug the footers.

Foundation: Hired out the pouring of the footers & concrete block foundation. Had stone delivered which I leveled and compacted myself.

Slab: Hired same guy that did footers to pour the slab.

Framing: (2x4 walls, 9' tall, 9x8 door, 16x8 door, access door) Hired out, along with crane rental to place trusses.

Roofing: Had ambitions of this, but ends up a 8x12 pitch roof is steeper than you think...ended up hiring this done.

Soffit/Fascia: Paid a guy to come out and help who does this as side work. He was worth it as I would've paid almost as much anyway to rent a sheet metal brake as I did for his help (he had his own brake).

Siding (back wall only): Did this myself with my brother in law. So easy, you should definitely do this yourself.

Brick (3 sides): Hired out

Garage doors: (9x8 and 16x8) Installed these myself. Pretty straight forward, didn't even have a helper.

Electrical: Doing this myself currently.

All together, with the addition of about 1200 sq.ft. of concrete driveway leading up to the garage, I'm probably around $36k. This is with no insulation/heat/plumbing. You'll definitely save quite a bit with siding instead of brick (brick/mason was about 25% of the total bill). You could easily do the framing if you have some help and have the tools. I had neither, so I hired it out.

Hope this helps.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mdvalant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2011 at 2:02pm
Good idea, my neighbor just put up a large pole building (no insulation or heat) but for a good price. I think you can always throw insulation in it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2011 at 2:01pm
Joel,
The only good thing I can say about the "package" garage guys is they will know what's allowed in your village/city. Check it out. You may not be allowed to put up a steel building??? This is for down here and not up north correct?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mdvalant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2011 at 1:59pm
I'm doing the same thing in a couple years out in my backyard. I can easily benefit though. My uncle owns the only concrete company in town (cost) and multiple guys on the ski team are contractors. So, We will be making a couple fun weekends out of it. Problem is though...I need it to be big enough for:

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I think the CCFAN guys should travel together for a week in the summer and fix peoples boats and build stuff for other members. Isn't there a show like that? lol
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2011 at 1:55pm
Maybe you can get Pete's builder. I don't think he spent more that $50k on his.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2011 at 1:47pm
Yeah, if it's 45K contracted it's not happenin'
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote harddock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2011 at 1:29pm
Just for a price comparison look into a Morton (or similar) building. They can perhaps quote you over the internet as to a cost for comparison.
Even though it is a steel bulkding the front can be dressed up to asthetically fit your neighborhood.
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