Loose swim platform bracket

Anyone have an opinion about whether to use 4200 or 5200 when re-attaching the swim platform bracket to the boat? I hope I never have to take it off again, but I don't want to make it impossible.

Swatkinz wrote: [QUOTE=gun-driver] Gundriver, curious. what's with the elbowed PVC and catching the exhaust water?

That's the 'ole great winterizing debate. I run the antifreeze through the motor that way.
Its hard to see but on the other side of the PVC is a suction hose.

Good news! Pulled the tank and looks like I can get to the back side of the bracket (after cutting away some foam). Should be able to thru bolt...yea!

jimsport93 wrote: Have not pulled my tank...yet. Thru bolting is my preferred choice. Was trying to avoid having to pull the tank. But will do what I have to do.

Jim...Let me know which way you want to go to fix her up. I'm off on F,S,& S's,so I can come up this weekend if you need some help tackling this one and can even bring some supplies if need be.

Very interesting! I wonder if the floor on the Sports is a bit taller. That might explain why all of the fasteners enter below the floor. On the Ski (as well as my Tique and BFN) the top bolts entered above the floor, the bottom screws were below.

At this point, you have 2 choices that I can think of. 1)Fill the top lag screw holes with a bunch of thickened resin, then predrill and reuse the lags, or 2) pull the tank, cut a few pockets in the floor that would allow you access to the back side of the bracket fasteners, and through bolt them (preferably both top and bottom).

Option 2 is a bit more involved, as you would have to pull the tank, cut some fiberglass, and then seal the pockets off (with more glass), but is a structurally superior solution.

Paul, I am the second owner of the boat. Not sure if they are original, but probably. Both brackets and bolts look identical. The original owner put very few hours on the boat.
When you pull your tank out are you able to get to the backside of the bracket pretty easily? Have not pulled my tank...yet. Thru bolting is my preferred choice. Was trying to avoid having to pull the tank. But will do what I have to do.

Tim, it appears that the bracket is mounted below floor level. And yes, they are lag bolts.

The only reason I can think of for why CC would have used lags on top instead of through bolting is if the brackets were completely below floor level. This was not the case on my '90, BFN or Ski Tique, so Im skeptical this is the case on your Sport, but who knows. If the top fasteners are in fact lags, I would be inclined to pull them out, and see if they come out above the floor or not. If they do, then I would replace them with bolts (backed with nuts and washers). If they are below the floor, then we can cross that bridge when we come to it... but filling the holes with thickened resin might be an option.

Jim, those were the bolts I was picturing based on your description... which is weird, I would really think they would be bolts, not lags. When you re-tightened them last year, did you have them all the way out to confirm? Or did you just sneak some sealant in behind the heads? Im wondering if the nuts somehow backed off a little bit.

Yes, I would say that removing the gas tank is probably necessary to get to the back side of the transom... but pull the rear panels and shine a light under the tank and see if you can see or reach anything before you pull it.

Tim, the top bolts pulled out about 3/4".

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you boat is probably is bad need of new wood and stringer replacement.