For a "out of the water start up" "testing" reason

Thanks for you help guys! With your guidance along with some other online research (marineengine.com is a good resource)- I confirmed that my engine has the dual impeller RWP that TRBenj and 75 Tique mentioned above. The pump is a Sherwood DP60. I even found a print for it that I'd be happy to upload if anybody is interested? For now I've decided to plumb/feed each line independently - ready to get the boat back together and in the water!

Lank, check out this thread.

I am not overly familiar with them, but what youre describing sounds like a dual impeller RWP that Chrysler used for a while. I would definitely be sure to cool both paths when running on the hose- otherwise you could overheat the exhaust, or at a minimum, fry that impeller.

I cant think of a reason why you couldnt tie the 2 lines together between the intake grates and RWP so that you could use a single tee for a garden hose... but someone more familiar with the Chrysler cooling system should probably chime in before you go down that path.

I put my connector in-line above the transmission before the trans oil cooler. Works great and cost me about $10.

That is really a nice one. I hope that I can also done it with the bucket. Thanks for the information. :D

sweet77 wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: Turning on the water before you start insures you'll have water at the RWP impeller. +1 however my new boat has no place for any water hook up. What is the bucket trick?

Halston,
The bucket trick is for peolple that may have a low water supply on their garden hose. If this is the case, some have found that the RWP will out pump the supply and collapse the garden hose due to the suction. What you do is place the hose from the RWP into a bucket and then keep filing the bucket with the garden hose. This gives you some cushion with the water needed/used.

I have never run into the problem myself ether on my well water up north or my city water down here. Some must have some pretty low flow garden hoses!!

makes sense, I didnt want to screw my boat up a week into it. If the impeller is bad, the motor would heat up pretty quick because its not cooling correct, starting to understand a little about boat motors

sweet77 wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: Turning on the water before you start insures you'll have water at the RWP impeller. +1 however my new boat has no place for any water hook up. What is the bucket trick?

You have two choices, to run house water into the boat, pull off the raw water intake from the through-hull under your transmission. Depending on the ID of the hose, the garden hose may clamp right in, otherwise you may need some fittings. (most fit right in, mine is 1 1/4 so it doesnt.) The alternative is the bucket method as shown in this thread. Benefit of bucket method, it verifies that your RWP is good. Running on a hose shoots water into the motor so your pump might be bad and you would never know.

8122pbrainard wrote: Turning on the water before you start insures you'll have water at the RWP impeller.

+1 however my new boat has no place for any water hook up. What is the bucket trick?

I've got an '89 and turn the water mains water on full till I see it running out the pickups, then simply start the boat. Turning the boat off I stop the engine first, then turn the water off.

I have a Flush-Pro and I installed a shutoff valve along with a quick connect on the inlet side. I turn the water on slightly before starting then once it's started I turn it all the way on.

How are you connecting the water to the boat?