Engine won't pull more than 4,000rpm

awesome!! Thats what I was looking for your the man!

MAN - GA wrote: multi-meter and key in "on" position with a sheet of paper in hand writing down voltage as I went from key back to engine after not being able to figure it out and starting over again the second time I put my hands on each wiring connection to check it and this is when it wiggled and I figured it out

You dont remember what the voltage was between the resistor and coil do you? Did you do a resistance test on the coil to check it? I am trying to find specs on what mine should be to make sure my coil is ok. Is there any auto store or shop that can test coils?

thanks anyway

sorry don't have any recommendations I have just used this website for guidance and info and spent my time doing things

multi-meter and key in "on" position with a sheet of paper in hand writing down voltage as I went from key back to engine

after not being able to figure it out and starting over again the second time I put my hands on each wiring connection to check it and this is when it wiggled and I figured it out

I have had the old prop packed in a box for about 3mn and have not taken the time to get it shipped back to Delta for a little cleanup - might need to break the box back open in the early fall and go to the lake by myself and run them both some morning when things settle down and I can get some calm water for a change. My only speed run with the 1210 was about 8:30 in the evening on a weekday night. Summertime on Lake Lanier is not the best place for speed runs with all the traffic.
Thanks and I will report my findings when I can get some comparisons

More clarification is needed...
First problem was the carb, but in hindsight this I think was just getting it tuned right after the rebuild. I changed out the secondary springs at the recommendation of Holley Tech after the carb rebuild I know this helped as I went to light and had them opening too soon. I finally found a good combination with 1x step lighter spring and seemed to have solved the secondary issue, but during this time I started getting diminished top end power even when opening by hand. After getting more frustrated I went back and checked everything on carb/ignition side to find the ballast resistor wire loose which I can only assume was vibrating loose as I was solving the secondary issue. Nonetheless I feel like I am getting good performance now from a motor that has around 1,600hrs on it

As for the speed issue I am comfortable with the 1210 prop combination - the hole shot is 100% improved and I don't have any problem dropping the speed down a few MPH, but I have only taken one WOT speed pass thus far
Thanks for all the input

I wanted to followup on this post and report that I found the problem. I called Boat DR (thanks Billy for the long discussion) and the issue was not carb related after all. I guess when trouble shooting sometimes you need to clear your mind and just go back to basics and check everything from A to Z. What I found was low voltage to coil and tracing back the wiring there was a loose connection at the ballast resistor - go figure it was this simple.

By the way TRBenj I am now getting the same results as you indicate with the ACME 1210 - I can get 4,600RPM with me in the boat (3/4 tank of gas) and a verified by GPS speed of 46.3MPH on smooth water with only a slight wind chop (wind about 3mph)

Was the carb performing before your rebuild?

Is that the original secondary spring and everything? If its new, it could be stiffer than your old one? They make different ones.

you got all the right conditions for a tornado, but it aint happening.
steer from the accelerator pump, that gets you going, i agree not that it matters that something is up with the secondary circuit, get back there and watch them.

MAN - GA wrote: I would think if the secondaries weren't opening I wouldn't be able to make the RPM I am

The secondaries should be coming in between 3500-4000 RPM, so its quite possible that theyre not actuating- or at least not actuating all the way. Ive seen this happen with brand new diaphragms, so I can only assume something in the vacuum/venturi set up was plugged. I would bump this to the top of your list to verify before we go on a wild goose chase... it seems you have covered most of the usual basics already.

Are you pretty sure your secondaries are opening on the carb?

I had the same feeling on the total timing as well. I did not check idle vacuum in gear when setting idle air mixture I did it in neutral - would this contribute to why I have noticed it running a little rich - my plugs have a little dry soot on them on the insulator - there is no oily residue and the electrode ends are not wearing unevenly or prematurely

The old prop was a 12x13 or 12x14 Federal - I think I remember TRBenj saying in older posts that most of these boats had the 12x14 Federals originally, the only problem I have is reading if the pitch number is a 13 or 14 - I am about to send the old prop back to Delta for refurbishing and maybe they can confirm for sure. The new prop is the Acme 1210 which is 12.5x12 with a .060 cuped blade

Mark,
I don't feel it's the prop. That engine should have no problem turning a 12.5 X 12 prop at a higher RPM.