78 Correct Craft Southwind Engines

Is there a way to test the pump to verify if it's actually in need of replacing? I was going to start with just a seal kit. But have been reading some of the threads on CCF about worn pumps blowing out the front seal. Would a regular auto tranny shop be able to fix this?

Any info on FFI Transmissions available? Couldn't find anything on Google.

thx!

Well, here are a few pics. Sea trial yesterday after getting all new parts bolted on. Made it around the lake, she didn't like full power, but kept her low to break her in and let her stretch her legs after sitting for so long. It was exhilarating! I never thought this old girl would ply the waters again. Had a few minor tweaks, readjust packing in prop shaft, and tranny fluid needed changing. 2nd sea trial after adjustments went worse. Tranny fluid leaked right out of her. Ugh.

So, now I'm seeking input on changing seals. I haven't pulled her apart yet, but I'm suspecting it's the front seal on the tranny that needs replacing at least. Are there other seals I should be checking? Can I pull the tranny without pulling the engine out? I'm trying to get this done quickly so I can get her back out on the water. Thx for your help!

351W heads have 4 bolt valve covers, 351C have 8 bolt valve covers.

Valves in 351c heads are arranged inline, like a small block chevy, 351W valves are staggered like a big block chevy.

351C heads used regular flat sealing area spark plugs, 351W heads use 14mm tapered head plugs (peanut plugs).

The timing chain recess is part of the block on a 351C, the timing chain is in a spearate bolt on front cover peice about 1 1/2" thick on the 351W.

The machined face where the water pump attaches to the block touches the face of the block where the head bolts on in a 351C, there is a gap of about an inch between that flange and the top face of the block on a 351W.

The 351C hads the thermostat mounted to the front of the intake manifold, and water passes thru the front of the intake to get to the thermostat. A 351W has the thermostat mounted on the top of the separate timing cover extension and cooling water goes straight into the front of the block thru castings in the timing cover, and bypasses the intake manifold. So if your thermostat housing (with the hoes to the exhaust manifolds and from the raw water pump) bolts to the intake manifold its a Cleveland, if it bolts to the timing cover extension its a Windsor.

Chris,
My first choice would be going to a well stocked hardware and look for a rubber plug/stopper that will fit. Drill a hole down the center and reuse the other parts.

New manifolds should be here tomorrow. Thanks for the skidim.com suggestion! Great site and prices!

Irydslow wrote: I found hairline cracks in both exhaust manifolds. Question: anyone had success JB Welding these puppies?

JB is a "do all epoxy" made to be user friendly for the average DIY'r. I'm surprised Billy Mays didn't sell JB!! It wouldn't be my first choice. Some have had luck with it but your better choice would be to braze the cracks.

On your temp gauge, if you take the wire off the sender, and ground it directly to the block, and this causes the gauge to peg, then it is your sender.

If nothing, then you are either not getting voltage to the gauge, because of a broken/loose wire, or the gauge itself is out of commission.

Chris,

For Parts check out www.skidim.com they are discount inboard marine in South Carolina.

Donald

Irydslow wrote: Okay. Having some ignition issues getting her started. Meter reads 12 volts off the coil with the key in start, then drops to 7 volts when the key is moved to ignition. Doesn't seem to be sparking right. Solenoid, battery, and key ignition are brand new. I would think it would need at least 12v on ignition too. Trying new points. Just looking for any additional tips.

When cracking, many start relays are set up to bypass the ballast resistor allowing for the voltage drop during the high amp draw of the starter motor. Then, after the engine is running, the volts to the coil will be around 9 due to the resistor.

Found a local shop that will rebuild the starter for about $60. Tried turning the engine tonight, and she does spin. She needed a little coaxing, but she spun and I could hear the cylinders compressing. That's a good start! ...and away we go...time to start buying parts!

You cannot tell the rotation of the starter (CW vs. CCW) by looking at a picture online. You are probably looking at the PMGR starters if they look different than your original. Those are nice (lower current draw) but require a slight modification on the wiring, and are a little more expensive.

The cheaper ones are the conventional style, like this one:

Ford CCW Marine starter for $91

Again, I cant vouch for the quality of the starter coming out of those lower priced shops. If youre looking for a brand new Arco, the part number you need is 70107.

The CCW's don't look like the one I pulled out of it. The CW's do. Do you have a link to the one you saw on ebasicpower?

http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/mm5/apps/starters/marine_starters.php?BRAND=FORD&B2=+Engines+-+Marine&TYPE=IN&engine=+Ford+Engines&ID=+Various+Models||+All

Excellent! Motor identified! Calling rebuild shop today, but found them new for pretty cheap:

Starter

OK, so we're thinking RH? I sprayed some PB Blaster in each of the cylinders a few weeks ago anticipating cranking it over. I'll look for a rebuild shop. Used to have one close by, hopefully he's still around. Thanks for the input!

Here you go- link

As for the starter see if you can get it rebuilt,it does not look that bad.Look for local alternator starter repair make sure you tell them it's a reverse rotation