Prop puller?

the only problem with that style puller is you have 2 buy thier 250.00 socket or they wont sell you the puller....

Best prop pullers on the market:

www.waltergear.com

Doc, It is my own design and made it to get as even a 360 degree pull on the prop hub as possible. I was frustrated with the C clamp type with way too much spring or "give" in them. I had used a 3 arm gear puller at one time so that sort of started me in that direction. I really should have made several at the time but didn't think that others would need them. If I gear up for them again, you are the first person on my list.

MarineSRT8 wrote: I must have gotten lucky. my prop came off with a few taps from my hand....no problems

T8, When you figure out what prop to use with all that HP, keep in mind that the taper is really what holds the prop on and tranmits all the torque. It is recommended to even lap with lapping compound the prop to the shaft.

This is my homemade puller I made about 15 years ago after I had a problem with the "C" clamp style having too much spring in it. I do have a 4th bolt and the plates are drilled and tapped for it to be used with a 4 blade. It was up north and I just remembered to bring it home.

If you built for your bud, how about some of mech-challenged guys?

john

Is it thin enough to work on 4 blades?

thanx mucho for pix and info,anything to do with boats is too cool. just could not envision how to build one out of common stuff in my shop...........boat dr

Looking from left to right: The end of the puller that "pulls" against the back of the prop is made from a 1" steel pipe cap. I ground a flat edge and welded it to the end of the cut down clamp. Then I cut out the cap so it would fit on the shaft between the prop and strut. I welded a 5/8" threaded adapter to the other end. You could weld two or three nuts together instead if you wanted. (be sure to put the bolt in first to keep them aligned). Use a 4" long 5/8" bolt. I put a nut on the inside of the clamp and left several threads open, then welded it to the bolt. That allows the nut to "wrap" around the end of the shaft so it will not slip off. I filleted all of the welds, buffed, and painted it. Workds great. All together cost less than $25.00.

I've been reading all the posts for pulling a prop - potentially a pain, but seems straight forward. How difficult/what's involved in reinstalling the prop with the key? Thanks

I have always been told to use a brass key at the prop end and a s/s key at the coupling end. This is to ensure that if something does go wrong you can shear the key.

I DO have a 1:1.

I have sent in the prop sizing inquiry form to Michagan Wheel. I'm waiting for their reply.

I sent my 12X15RH1.0 to O.J. for repair with instructions for them to call me before they begin. Since I am turning that prop over 5200 RPM, I have some doubt that it is ACTUALLY 15 pitch. I have been advised that my 351 Commander 4V should not be able to turn that prop that fast, so it might have been re-pitched lower (or maybe my engine has more-than-stock power?).

I would also like to buy a new (re-conditioned) prop of the original size, but at this point, I'm not sure what the original size is.

I called Southeast CC, and asked them what the original size was They were really nice, but they seemed to be guessing - by the time I got off the phone they must have told me 3 or 4 different sizes that it could have been

I borrowed a BIG 3-prong gear puller from the "loan-a-tool" at the local cheap parts store we all hate. It worked GREAT!

There are no formal Torque specs. I agree with Toomer12 Tighten untol the prop reaches the mark you made without the key Then align the nut so you can get the cotter key in. Repplace the coter pin each time you replace the prop. Use a stainless pin. Why lose a $300 prop to save $2 on a pin.