78/79 ski-tique rod knocking

and dont be a dummy and put teflon tape on the threads, flares do the sealing not the threads, I dont own any teflon tape that *************** gets everwhere so i use pipe dope, the only place you should see dope or teflon tape is on a NPT National pipe thread.
just brought that up cause i always see teflon tape hanging off the carb fitting

Speaking as a guy who sets his boat on fire every now and then... regardless of regulation you do need to be a little careful in your fuel line selection on a boat. The specifically what is needed between an engine mounted fuel pump is something abrasion resistant (to avoid wearing through either by vibration over time or by contact with a rotating pulley or belt) has positive stop stress relieved attachments (ie not a non flared compression fitting on a hard line that could be slowly and imperceptably pulling out, or a soft line with a clamp and a barb fitting because it also could blow out under pressure suddenly and it could through fatique crack over time) and something that has a high enough melting temp to allow you enough time to swim away should you have a small thermal event under the motor box.

A high quality rubber hose with stainless steel braiding and AN fittings properly used meets all these actual requirements. But there are no markings on stainless braided lines that seperate the cheap low melting point rubber junk from the high qualily stuff that will give you enough time to swim away. That is more an issue for the coast guard because they cannot easily check than it is for you who can check the specs of the material you buy.

Didn't we recently see AN fittings on a metallic blue Ford?

8122pbrainard wrote: allanonjj wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: JJ, I bought one from Skidim for my 302. Since it's gots a wedge plate under the carb, some tweaking was neded but it worked. The alternate is to use pre flared brake line and bend one yourself. OK,.. I'll order the one from skidim. Ive heard that its not a good idea to use steel braded line with an fittings,.. why is that? To my knowledge, they are not USCG rated.

CG rating is important, but another concern is that the flares may be different. I can't remember which is which, but automotive and aircraft use different flares, one is 45 Degrees, and the other is 37.5 degrees.   using the wrong flare will make the fitting leak

allanonjj wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: JJ, I bought one from Skidim for my 302. Since it's gots a wedge plate under the carb, some tweaking was neded but it worked. The alternate is to use pre flared brake line and bend one yourself. OK,.. I'll order the one from skidim. Ive heard that its not a good idea to use steel braded line with an fittings,.. why is that?

To my knowledge, they are not USCG rated.

JJ,
I bought one from Skidim for my 302. Since it's gots a wedge plate under the carb, some tweaking was neded but it worked. The alternate is to use pre flared brake line and bend one yourself.

You got it, that's the right fuel line... or should be if you have a stockish intake manifold. On Holleys, the gas line goes in the front towards the port side.

8122pbrainard wrote: Don't forget the steel line with flared fittings from the pump to the carb.

Hey Pete,.. where'd you say I can get one of those? There was some site or something that sells them for like $20 or so but I forgot where it was.

Gary S wrote: look at it close usually one if not both are marked inlet or outlet

K,.. preesh

another silly question: On the fuel pump,.. which hole(front/rear) is the inlet and which is the outlet? (I took pictures of all the stuff I knew I'd need visual reference on and forgot to on the simple things,... lol)

JoeinNY wrote: and it could have the timing way off causing hard cranking due to sparking while the piston is on the up stroke.

I first tried "cranking " the engine without the spark plugs hooked up,.. just to see how it sounded without fire.

Not having the dust shield in place will not affect the starter's functionality.

You do need a marine starter. It also needs to be reverse rotation specific- the starter will be CCW. If youre using an automotive starter, not only will you have in adequate spark protection on it (big safety no-no) but it will also be trying to turn the engine backwards.

Sounds like bull to me.. a properly clearanced and lubricated engine has no reason to be more "tight" than any other. It could crank hard due to starter issues, and it could have the timing way off causing hard cranking due to sparking while the piston is on the up stroke.. but other than that if anything the rings not being broke in should increase blowby and make it easier to turn over.   With the plugs out you should be able to turn the engine over with a half inch rachet on the crank.. it shouldnt feel tight.

Have any of you tried to crank a fresh 302? Mine seems really "tight". It's not spinning over very fast and it is putting a strain on the starter. I talked to Mack about it and he said that it is normal, that a freshly built v8 can be a bitch to start. Just wondering if any of you have experienced the same issue.

Im still alive,.. just had to put the engine project on hold for a little while. I did get it back in the boat yesterday and got most everything hooked up. I have a stupid simple question: If the firing oorder is backwards does that make the cylinder #s change? Could someone show me which cylinder is which please?
Is this right?:
rear seat
4 8
3 7
2 6
1 5
windshield