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Transmission replacement

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lison View Drop Down
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    Posted: September-12-2011 at 1:21am
Ya, think I'll give it another go. I need to take the starboard front motor mount off and free it up better. Don't know why they didn't design it like the up and down, threaded adjustment. Cranking, pouinding, prying the entire engine laterally is not very precise.
L Ison
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-11-2011 at 10:17am
I agree
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-11-2011 at 9:04am
Originally posted by lison lison wrote:

Got it down to .003 - .004

.003 for all that is a stretch. I wonder what it was before I pulled it apart, and if it lead to the tranny breaking down.


I'd keep going at it. You're on the high side especially the .004" It's not hard to get it down to .000 - it just takes time and some playing around.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-11-2011 at 3:15am
Got it down to .003 - .004 but I question whether there will be some settling of the engine and transmission. Motor mounts to stringers, mounts themselves, prying the front of the engine to the starboard, plenty of room for something to move. .003 for all that is a stretch. I wonder what it was before I pulled it apart, and if it lead to the tranny breaking down.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-10-2011 at 10:42pm
Originally posted by lison lison wrote:

Had to drop the transmission a little, but biggest issue was moving the front of the motor to the starboard side. One side didn't want to move. In hindsight, should have freed up those motor mounts when I had a better chance. Glad I'd sprayed them with penetrating fluid. Two and a half hours later, within tolerances and on the water, running sweet. No noticeable vibrations or issues. Thanks for the advice. I'll edit the install list for the next Correct Craft owner needing some help. -Luther

Did you get it down to less than .003" between the flanges? If so, fantastic!!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-10-2011 at 10:10pm
Had to drop the transmission a little, but biggest issue was moving the front of the motor to the starboard side. One side didn't want to move. In hindsight, should have freed up those motor mounts when I had a better chance. Glad I'd sprayed them with penetrating fluid. Two and a half hours later, within tolerances and on the water, running sweet. No noticeable vibrations or issues. Thanks for the advice. I'll edit the install list for the next Correct Craft owner needing some help. -Luther
L Ison
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-10-2011 at 5:14pm
Thanks much. Will do things right. Everything set to go. Got feeler gauges,tools, ATF (would only take a qt. initially).Reading up one more time on adjustment procedure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-10-2011 at 12:41pm
Originally posted by lison lison wrote:

Shaft flanges appear to be off by about a quarter inch.

Don't forget the weight of the prop shaft forward at the stuffing box will allow it to be lower. When you get to the alignment, it's best to pull the hose/stuffing box forward so you can see if the shaft is centered in the log. You also want to make sure the shaft is "happy" (turns freely) in the strut. Don't forget your feeler gauges - I'd hate to see you send the trans back to Eric again!!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-10-2011 at 12:36pm
[QUOTE=lison] Ah yes. Now I remember rebuilding the Hodaka and Bultaco clutches.
QUOTE]

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lison View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-10-2011 at 12:06pm
Ah yes. Now I remember rebuilding the Hodaka and Bultaco clutches.
Got the tranny bolted in the boat last night. So far, so good. It almost went in too easy. Makes me nervous! Didn't have to rotate the crank, just the output of the trans. to line up the splines and it went right in. Shaft flanges appear to be off by about a quarter inch. Lining up good port to starboard, but engine sits a little higher than the prop shaft. Maybe because it's not in the water yet. Still gotta hook up hoses and lines, put the new prop on and repack the gortex. Then get it in the water for final adjustments. Time to get at it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote anthonylizardi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-09-2011 at 1:40pm
That's right. I remember a story somebody told once, maybe Eric. If you put synthethic in your hands there would never be any friction. I guess is the same for a clutch, withouth friction it won't work. Sounds like marine transmission are like a motorcycle with a wet clutch. The friction is needed in the transmission.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-09-2011 at 1:09pm
Originally posted by lison lison wrote:

why can't we use synthetic on the old Velvet Drive Warner transmissions?

The coefficient of friction. You do NOT have an automotive trans. The marine is totally different.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-09-2011 at 12:51pm
Dexron Mercon III or Dex Merc V?
There's a ton of info out there on ATF. Should probably be a separate topic, but why can't we use synthetic on the old Velvet Drive Warner transmissions?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-08-2011 at 9:50am
dexron/mercon or compatible
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote anthonylizardi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-08-2011 at 1:55am
Valvoline Dex/Merc is what these guys suggested to the best of my knowledge.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-08-2011 at 1:51am
My manual for a model 10-17 calls for "Dexron II, Type F"
Local auto parts stores have Type F, but no Dextron II.
They have Dexron III and IV, but I don't think I'm supposed to use that. Tranny came back from rebuild with some fluid in it but I' don't know what it is. Guess I'll have to give FFI a call.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-08-2011 at 1:45am

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote anthonylizardi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-07-2011 at 3:14pm
Type F ATF? I thought you need Dex/Merc ATF. I recommend that you double check with Eric.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-07-2011 at 2:55pm
Got the Velvet Drive back yesterday and getting ready to put things back together. This is what I think I need to do. Am i missing anything?

Trim damper plate and install. Only had to trim quarter inch
Install bell housing. Grease splines of tranny and damper.
Drop in tranny and rotate trans output until splines align. Tighten everything down.
Replace transmission mounts
Install rebuilt starter
Hook up clean fluid lines to clean cooler, leaving one loose
Fill transmission with Type Dex Merc III ATF. Tighten loose fluid line.
Hook up new water hoses to cooler, linkage, neutral switch.
Loosen front and rear engine mount locking nuts
Align prop shaft as close as possible and put in one bolt
Remove and replace prop with rebuilt
Replace packing in prop shaft
Put boat in water and do final adjustment within .003
Start engine. Put transmission in forward and reverse at idle.
Recheck fluid level and fill as necessary.
Restart and test transmission.
Recheck alignment
Check and adjust packing.
Get in boat/ski time before big freeze and winterizing.

What have I missed? Thanks for all the help. Couldn't have done it without all you. -Luther
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-02-2011 at 11:16am
I know about alignment, but am confused about leaving the damper loose.
Pilot and bolt transmission and then pull it back apart to tighten the damper? It doesn't seem that there's much slop in the damper anyway. I've read something about sneaking in through the starter hole, but don't see how that's possible. Sorry, probably just need to do it once. Trying to visualize how this is going back together.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-02-2011 at 9:47am
you shouldnt. you know about alignment? and leaving the damper loose until the transmission is piloted and bolted?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-01-2011 at 5:44pm
Am I going to have any issues getting splines to line up after the new damper and rebuilt tranny?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-30-2011 at 11:54am
yes
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote charger496 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-30-2011 at 1:16am
The one from eric is cheaper and better than stock. Install it finger tight to see which holes to use, then it will be clear what to trim. Take enough off to avoid interference with the starter teeth when they rotate around with the flywheel. Trim one with a hack saw, then use the waste piece as a template for what to trim on the other two. Get pretty close on each one, I'm not sure how much vibration you'll get if you're sloppy. I got pretty close, and it's vibration-free.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2011 at 12:17pm
I asked Eric to include one, but wasn't aware there was such a thing as a universal damper plate. How much needs to be trimmed for a 351? Sure don't want to do the job twice, like I'm apt to do anyway!
Found previous posts and a few pics of the universal plate. Is it a better plate than the one made for a 351? Cost difference ($183 Skidim)? Eric?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote charger496 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-27-2011 at 5:56pm
I'm sure it'll be in the instruction packet with the trans, but don't forget that the damper plate that he sends with the trans (you did order one, right?) is a universal fit, and needs the ears trimmed in order to avoid interference with the starter. The good news if you forget to do this is that removal and re-installation takes about half the time on the second go-round. I know this from experience...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-27-2011 at 12:19pm
I like em, there are some out there in the 150.00 range, set and forget, thats me though and i look at it this way, all the high end boats have them installed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-27-2011 at 11:52am
Got it. Thanks, and great video. Ordered out packing for the rudder and prop shaft from Skidim. Has anyone tried the OJ dripless system? Looks good, but spendy.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-26-2011 at 2:13pm
Originally posted by lison lison wrote:

While Eric works on my transmission, I'm wondering if I should be pulling the prop shaft assembly apart.

Just double check the cutlass bearing in the strut. Everything else you'll need to wait for the trans and install it. When you get to that point, this video may come in handy.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote anthonylizardi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-26-2011 at 2:02pm
If everything was working just leave as it is. Now if you feel like is a good time to change something you can take out the shaft, that would involve taking the rudder rudder. With the shaft out you can check your cultas bearing, i.e. is the insert inside the strut. If is wear you can replace it. It is supposed to be easy to but I stripped the allen wrench and it was headache. With the rudder and shaft out I recommend a new packing seal. The GFO fiber packing work great and they are inexpensive and almost dripless.
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