Leaking valve cover gasket 89/2001

NAUTIQUEjunky wrote: Get you a nice 1/4 ratchet,swivel and extension you can get to the Valve cover bolts all day long, Were not talking huge torque numbers here folks if you cant break them loose with this method them somethings wrong ie cross threaded, seized..I have never had to pull a manifold to service Valve cover gaskets you have enough room.

This worked great, very easy, no need to remove manifolds plenty of room.

Thanks

Thanks Nautiquejunky!
Worked great and no more leak!

I used the same as above, had to slide the socket in from the front.

+1 on just pulling the manifolds. That way you can do the manifold gaskets at the same time and save yourself some work down the road.

If it runs fine so be it, but you will eventually kill those wires. You could get super insulated ones but then they probably won't fit!

Ive heard that getting those VC bolts on and off without pulling the manifolds is possible, but it sure is tight. I havent tried it myself- pulling the manifolds isnt too bad of a job. Unless your manifold bolts look really scary, then I would pull them.

Keegan, why did you route the wires over the VC's? The VC's and exhaust manifold runners get HOT! Id be concerned about a scorched wire. Did you not get wires long enough to route from underneath?

did you use KY to slide them? thats really tight!

hey keegan, wonder how you managed to route the spark wires/cables that way...

These are the bolts that are going to be hard to get to.

Its not a big deal to remove the exhaust manifolds if that is what has to happen which I suspect it will to get to the valve covers. I took mine off this winter to paint them back to their original color and it was really easy. Just get new gaskets for them as well. What the guys are describing above with the studs is the trick to putting them back on once you have fixed the valve covers. I used 2 studs to hang the gasket and manifold in place while I put in the bolts. Once you have a few bolts in you can remove the studs and replace with bolts. Good afternoon project.

that thing wont fit..its a really tight space there...

i think you need something like this

anyway removing the manifold isn´t a bad idea...yes the bolt might be frozen there, been there myself. But need to be done eventually, the riser gasket that age always leak...put fresh gasket and be safe..

Guess i wasn't being specific enough on my first post about getting to the heads of the bolts that hold the valve cover. My concern is that it appears one would need some kind of extension that is flexible in order to get at the center bolt heads. I live in a remote area and the local mechanic doesn't seem to think he can get at the bolts without removing the exhaust manifolds which I really don't want to do. Nearest Nautique dealer id 60 miles away. Any suggestions on a flexible extender?

BuffaloBFN wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: A threaded stud??? That's it. They have different threads on each end. Standard to fine. Edit-It's called a thread adapter bolt. A 3" bolt with the head cut off does the same thing.

Greg,
To fill you in some more, A threaded stud usually has different classes of thread tolerances on each end. The typical "stud" has a class 1 on one end. This is the interference fit that usually goes into the block. (stud wrench needed) Then, the other end is for you basic nut fit which is a class 2 (spin it on by hand)   

BuffaloBFN wrote: For that I need Pete's help: Pete, what's the name of a double threaded bolt(bet he even has a pic)? 4 of those bolts help a ton reinstalling.

A threaded stud??? sorry, I may not be following!

they can be removed without taking the manifolds off...something like this will help a lot...