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Strut shimming

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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Strut shimming
    Posted: September-21-2011 at 8:49am
Mike,
When you're up forward doing the engine alignment, the front of the prop shaft will be supported by the step bore on the coupling face.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lakedog55 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-20-2011 at 11:37pm
looks better than the strut, woops
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-20-2011 at 11:33pm
Looks pretty darn good from here!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lakedog55 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-20-2011 at 11:28pm
Quick question when aligning do I want to use the same method. (taking the weight off of the front of shaft). Also I heard of some doing the final alignment in the water is that how they should be done?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lakedog55 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-20-2011 at 11:24pm
It worked out nice with the 86 the grab rails are in the perfect place.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-20-2011 at 11:11pm
Mike,
Looking at this last picture, it sure looks like you got it!!!
Nice idea with the strap. I usually use a block of wood with a V cut in it but Next time I'll try the strap.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lakedog55 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-20-2011 at 11:06pm
Not sure, Sprayed the silicon in there when I was installing the bearings. The shaft did ride where it wanted to low and right. took the weight off the front and it still wanted to go right. Took strut off and tried straighten some. put it back on and took out good sized hammer swung and almost missed the whole thing, I am not sure if it was body position or not really wanting to hit probably closed my eyes. I will dry out the bearings and recheck but for now it looks like this,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-20-2011 at 10:59pm
Originally posted by BuffaloBFN BuffaloBFN wrote:


I use a spray silicone on my tool tables; makes them slick!

Greg!!!!
That stuff will screw up you finishes!! Go with the non silicone "Boeshield" Correct Tim? I bet DAL doesn't allow any silicone near the paint operation??


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-20-2011 at 10:35pm
Originally posted by lakedog55 lakedog55 wrote:

Turns freely with hand I did silcon the cutlass before beginning


Can you still find where it wants to be with the silicone? I use a spray silicone on my tool tables; makes them slick!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-20-2011 at 3:37pm
If its spinning freely where it currently sits, you can get rid of that side gap without shimming. That would only help up/down variation.

Get the strut off and clean up the old adhesive. Dry fit it and verify that you can get the shaft in the center of that log... using a BFH to get it dead nuts is perfectly acceptable. Once youve verified that you can get it there, remove everything and install the strut for real (with 5200). Before it sets up, double check that youre centered... if not, get the BFH out again and center it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lakedog55 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-20-2011 at 3:28pm
Got the weight off. Turns freely with hand I did silcon the cutlass before beginning but it turns freely just to one side. small adjustment needed just not sure where to begin. Has some 5200 around outside not sure what is under it. post a pic
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-20-2011 at 3:18pm
Like was said, you need to find where that shaft turns freely in the strut, then hold it there to evaluate how far off center it sits in the shaft log.

I assume that right now the strut is simply bolted up (not 5200'd in)? If so, you might be surprised how much you can vary the shaft log location just by taking a BFH to the strut. The tolerance on the bolt holes will allow the strut to twist a bit, allowing you to dial in the side to side gap. If you dont need to go up/down in the shaft log, no need to shim.

If you do need to go up/down, consider grinding the back of the strut to get the angle closer... I chose to do this rather than shim with washers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lakedog55 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-20-2011 at 3:05pm
Thanks
If I get the weight off and some what centered then I will check to see how it turns Got it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-20-2011 at 3:00pm
Mike,
I agree with the previous answers. Yes, get the weight of the forward end of the shaft and see how it turns in the cutlass. If shimming is needed, I would not go more than one washer. (stainless of course) If movement from side to side is required, sometimes there's enough clearance in the mounting bolts.

No, the ARE does not need the safety set collar since it has the bolt on the front end holding it into the coupling taper.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lakedog55 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-20-2011 at 2:49pm
Cutlass bearings replaced, Bend the strut with a pipe or somthing.
Shaft is new, How about a little heat on the strut. being careful of course I kind center the strut with a little pressure up and down movement is easier of course the left to right is a little harder.
Thanks Mike
The ARE shaft does not have a slip lock collar like the old ones is it not neccesary?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-20-2011 at 2:44pm
If it's that bad could you purposely bend the strut to get it closer, then fine tune with shims?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-20-2011 at 2:44pm
I would first support the engine end of the shaft and check concentricity at the cutlass bearing(rubber inside the strut). Looks like a great time to replace the cutlass if it's worn.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lakedog55 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-20-2011 at 2:39pm
Been looking forward to this day and dreading it at the same time, Everything else on the boat was either bent broke or in need of somthing.
posting pictures to see if you guys think it can be shimmed and tolerance levels for the number of washers
Thanks Mike
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