68/69 Mustang Resto

Thanks Gary,

I ended up making the hole much bigger than that, haha! Since I don't have a center console box I left the pylon support intact. I am planning on building a mold and making a box to fit into the console once the boat is put back together.

This pic does no justice to the work gone on over the last 2 years. Ill try to get some of the detailed past photos up soon.

This may be a little late, Mike, but here is what the pitot looks like. I finally remembered to bring it home and take a photo.

Yes, I believe the floor is cut out all the way to the hull, but don't take my word for it. I am far from an expert. Wait for Gary or Vondy or another export to reply before you do anything.

Looking for a tip or some insight:

When replacing the blocks that the exhaust tips go through what is the best way to duplicate the compound angle of the hole in the wood?

I used the old blocks as a guide and drilled them out with a hole saw before glassing to the transom. Although this seemed to accurately duplicate the angle of the hole it is a little difficult to line up accurately.

More than likely I am just being too nit-picky and the tips where not perfectly straight to begin with but maybe I am missing something.

Thanks!

mountaineerminer wrote: Gary, I guess under that theory I could even cut off the cracked portion (keep from spreading)and use the spacer between the rudder and the bottom of the rudder port to maintain the same length if needed. Or, I could braze or silver solder the crack.... I am worring about this now because I am getting ready to fit the wood at the stern that the rudder port goes through and I dont want to set it up for my current rudder port if I need to replace it with a slightly different version. John, Will you be around tomorrow? I wanted to give you a call, I had a few questions. Thanks guys!

Do you mean me? I am always around, call anytime even if just to talk. Be aware that I really have no knowledge pertaining to the rudder assembly that will help you make a decision. There are others here who have experience and, most likely, have good answers. My Mustang project is easy, I am, to borrow a phrase from Pete, just keeping it original. I don't intend to change anything except the automotive carburetor.
It is interesting that my 69 & 70 Mustangs have different rudders. I think the ports are the same, but I would have to check to be absolutely certain. Yours is probably the same as the 69. My spare rudder port is up in the "Land of Cheese".

Gary,

I guess under that theory I could even cut off the cracked portion (keep from spreading)and use the spacer between the rudder and the bottom of the rudder port to maintain the same length if needed.

Or, I could braze or silver solder the crack....

I am worring about this now because I am getting ready to fit the wood at the stern that the rudder port goes through and I dont want to set it up for my current rudder port if I need to replace it with a slightly different version.

John,

Will you be around tomorrow? I wanted to give you a call, I had a few questions.

Thanks guys!

For reference, www.deepblueyachtsupply.com sells these type of items.

Used is the way to go, they are expensive new!

I have a spare rudder port. If you need one, which it looks like you do, ill put it on ice for you when you're ready. I will keep it as spare parts if you go another way. In any case it will be here.

I am feeling better about parting the 69 Mustang knowing that much of it will help keep others on the water.

Bet it wouldn't spank the 134cid minivan in our chapter, or my old turbo minivan (mini) either. It may be a match for my 89 turbo GTC.

mountaineerminer wrote: Thanks John...I might need to make my way to the windy city again. Last time I was there was 7 years ago when my father and I went to pick up parts for an 88 Toyota supra turbo. It was a good trip, only our Yankee asses didn't realize we changed time zones!!!

Turbo car? I love turbo cars! 13:39 @ 109. Not nearly the fastest 2.2 in my chapter of the club, but a good sleeper! turbo cars

A BIG thank you.I didn't realize they had a ridge,don't think I'll be able to find them but diameter will be easier now. Just like everything else CC they must have had different consoles over the years,heres mine out of a 'Cuda,it's just taller.John brought your white one over on his visit. If I cut the lower portion off,it's identical.

Thanks John...I might need to make my way to the windy city again. Last time I was there was 7 years ago when my father and I went to pick up parts for an 88 Toyota supra turbo. It was a good trip, only our Yankee asses didn't realize we changed time zones!!!

Long time no post,

Since my last post I have completely ground out the hull and most of the sides using both a 4 1/2" angle grinder and a 7" angle grinder both affixed with a flap wheel. All the old gel in the bilge was removed as well at the unwetted glass under the old stringers. I roughed up the entire hull, but will do a final sand with a DA prior to glassing. This process seemed like an eternity and took place over about three weekends.   

Before rolling the hull in the garage I laminated the stringers using US Composites epoxy and two layers of glass cloth, cut, and sanded to final dimensions.

Below are some pictures of the glove box, console, and controls that I picked up from John B and Aaron.

The brown console on the right is supposedly from a Barracuda SS. Its definitely different than the Mustang console as it was made to run into the motor box with the battery directly behind the console. I purchased this console for the controls.



John,

The holes in the corners of the glovebox fit up exactly; I take this to mean that this boat was originally equipped with the glove box and it wasn't an after thought some time in the last 40 years. I will just have to fill the holes that the aftermarket box was installed with.




Gary,

I have finally taken some measurements of the knobs for you.

Diameter of the ridge around the knob


Measurement from the flat threaded end to the round top


The next 2 images show the closest measurment I could get of the full diameter of the knob minus the rigde and flat spot.



Mike

mountaineerminer wrote: "when it’s time to refit the stringers may be good to support the hull off the cradle at the transom and each side at the chine" uk, This is a concern I had and plan to look into a better way to support the hull. Do you think I am better off trying to support it from the chines and transom area or building 4 or 5 bunks that run parallel to the transom? I am not sure how to describe this all that well; I might just need to describe in a picture. -Mike

Mike The way I see it supports each side of the transom and 2 each side of the chine in line with the windshield should be fine some add a support to the keel as well just before the pylon its up to you, making up ribs would work too but allot more work and ensuring the hull is true and level could be a pain to do.
There is the argument that depending how big a guy you are you will push the hull out with your weight which is a fair point but my guess is the hull would run faster.
My self I took the sub stringers out first and replaced then took the main stringers out one at a time and replaced using the old to hold the hull shape while the hull was up on 4 stands this way will take allot longer to do but you can use the old to register/brace the new,if your going for a all out approach I do feel leaving 2 or 3 small tabs of the old glass sticking up 1/4 or so on the stringer runs make life easier registering the new.   
With your set up of lifting if you clamp some timber across the deck and plum down at marked points to the hull then lift and plum down again we can see how much flex there is once all the stringers are removed as I have not see this data on here and would be a great help for the flat bottom boats.