Moving in to the garage

Any "on the water" photos?

ok I double checked some things. The dizzy was firmly planted in the hole and had appropriate endplay when I took the cap off, so I took off the bolt, cleaned off some of the excess paint, applied a small dab of loctite on the bolt threads and then reinstalled with 25 ft lbs of torque. If that comes loose I will be surprised. I will be back on the water saturday so we will see if that solved the problem.

well ya, I see there are two types of shims now, housing and gear shims. I am looking for a housing shim. I thought maybe I would try it with a .010 shim and see if it helped. I guess I will try some loctite first then give the shims a try if that doesnt hold again. I know I had it at least 25ft/lbs before and it came loose after about 2 hours of running.

Then you had me all worried things where too tight in there. I supposed I should take the cap off and check the play in the shaft. That may shed some light on things.

whoa there trigger... the top and bottom of the gear dont contact anything- shims above or below them wont do you any good. In this case you would shim on the surface that contacts the top of the block. But if you are getting good mesh and that surface makes solid easy contact before tightening down maybe it is time for a little loctite and run.

Joe is correct, its goes right into the block. No gasket just an o-ring. To my eye it appears to be sitting flush I could try and see if a feeler gauge would fit in there but its really looks quite flush to the naked eye. I know I had it at least that tight if not tighter that why I was asking if it should be higher.

That bolt has been in and out a few times, it is possible that it is just worked loose? I am also thinking there could be a slight build up of paint under it that is causing the ear to not really clamp down very well on the dizzy. It just barely works itself loose, nothing extreme, just enough to shift a little.

the dizzy easily clears the intake. edelbrock performer rpm intake, stock distributor.

Joe when you say it needs a shim, do you mean under the lip of the distributor between it and the block?

Jllogan wrote: how much torque do you think is correct, its a 1/2 head. 60ft/lbs?

It'll be more like 10-15; 60 is way too much, you need a spec sheet. Why were thinking so high? Or was it a typo? Are you trying to draw it up tight? Having an aluminum intake matters too.

If it were me, I'd pull the distributer and put it back in without the gasket. Does it sit all the way down?

hmm, well the gear depth on the dizzy is pretty well set with that drift pin right? So it only goes in one spot. As far as the oil pump shaft bottoming out, the shaft is still original. I got the distributor hold down pretty tight with a wrench I was afraid to go any tighter and it still worked loose after a couple hours.

Any suggestions.

Ok so the PO had polished the crank and put in oversized bearings, I didnt know and put in standard. This was causing a low end knock, low oil pressure, rocker chatter all kinds of fun stuff. Took the engine back out, put in the right bearings and we had it out on the water 6 hours yesterday.

The one last issue I have to diagnose is that the bolt that holds the distributor tight keeps working loose after a few hours and I have to readjust and tighten. Maybe I should add a lock washer or locktite? Other than that it runs great, better than ever. Also have been getting lots of compliments on the lake as well.

I will have to post some pics of watersports fun being had to prove the successful restoration.

Justin,

Is the 1/2 wide pin strip on your boat pale gray like mine?
Mine just needs to be touched up under the gas over flow and a couple other places. Maybe 18in or so but the only way I could get it is 150ft roll.
Anyway if ya need some or enough to re stripe the boat I've got a bunch.

So are you an Deborah skiing tommorow?

If the inlaws weren't coming over Shannon would probably like to ski :)

Lakeview wrote: Have you checked your vibration damper plate? Strange noises have been known to come from loose bolts and worn springs!

I was going to say, that rattle almost sounded like something secondary, like outside the engine. If it was a car I'd say it was an exhaust heat shield.

I was thinking about how you said the shaft spins in neutral now. That's pretty common. Did you align on re-install? If you did, maybe there was too much friction on the strut or shaft log to let it spin in neutral before and you fixed it.

Will your engine cover close? I used a small ball of clay on the flame arester to check the clearance, worked perfect.

watrski wrote: Lookin good. Get your strut on yet?

Yup the 5200 is drying as we speak! Deborah is bugging to take it out wednesday but I think we may wait until the weekend.

Its Alive!!!!!! Now just a few loose ends and Ill be ready for the water test.



Anyone else hear a clatter, like maybe rocker noise when I accelerate hard? It doesnt do it when I accelerate slow and steady at the end. Thoughts?

Definitely impressive. That was one productive winter