Spring prep...

Matt you could also try and source a Ryco Z9 they are a good quality filter. I used to run the Baldwin filters myself but now use the Ryco Z9.

So the Chinese Fujitoyo filter will be left on the shelf I think.
I have been doing a bit more searching and ordered a Baldwin B2 but also found that the FL-1A is Ford Part number 3707442 in Europe, so next time I should be able to pop into a local dealer and get one.

Oh I also watched the alignment 101 posted on youtube over my lunch time, nice video and cleared up nicely whats needed, Cheers Pete.

OH! Fujitoyo appear to be made in China....I might leave it on the shelf.

Most of the PCM 351 clamps are 5/16", I keep one in the boat all times. I'd rather have a hose too tight than an overheated engine. I snug them (on the RWP side) when the engine is warm, so the hose is a bit softer.

Matt,
Any air in the system will work it's way out. What you do ned to watch out for are leaks on the suction side of the RWP. They will allow air in so do watch the engine temp.

SNobsessed wrote: Kris - I agree, that is why I only use a screw driver. I was taught that when the rubber starts to extrude into the worm gear slots, it is tight enough!

I think the recommendation on using a 1/4" socket on the clamps really started with problems with air leaks on the suction side of the RWP. That's wire reinforced so, I really feel that is tougher hose. I always back off on the torque when the hose clamt ends start to twist away from each other!! BTW, it's important to use the best quality clamp around. If the hose is large enough in diameter, then T clamps are the way to go.

using a socket on your hose clamps to get them tighter is not necessarily a good Idea.    if you tighten too much, you can "cold flow" the hose, essentially causing it to be weakened.    tight enough to stop leaks is good on hoses, don't go crazy with them

Good call on the packing gland (will look that up). I removed/loosened the belts so will need re-installing before startup.
With the hose clamps I presume this is just a visual check and a tug to check that they are all tight?

I have been making regular visits to the boat to turn the wheel and ensure the cable is running freely (tick)
I will keep my fingers crossed for the battery's but will take a jump box with me just incase :)

We went to Morzine in France which was great, lots of snow the week before we arrived and lots of nice sunshine whilst we were there, would have been nice for a bit more powder but it was still great. Massive area to cover http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portes_du_Soleil. I will say one thing for the French they know how to serve red meat...blue

I will check out Keypart cheers.

MattB wrote: Just back from a weeks snowboarding in the Alps and just started swimming twice/three times a week Good idea on the situps though...time to dust off the pilates machine I think.

Snowboarding in the alps, awesome, where did you go? My wife and I did some boarding in the austrian alps last year, it was awesome.


That hat makes my face look fat.

Just back from a weeks snowboarding in the Alps and just started swimming twice/three times a week Good idea on the situps though...time to dust off the pilates machine I think.

I might be being overly optimistic but I think there are about 6 weeks before the covers can come off and I can get an early start to the season, this is mostly prompted by the need to get a couple of people through thier SBDA driver test before we go into the good weather and want to be boarding most/all weekend.

I have now started thinking about the prep I need to complete and was looking for any advise or anything I might be overlooking.

I will be ordering a new 422 prop very soon, probably import from the US due to the prices I have been quoted in the UK. My local ACME supplier has given me a price of Approx £500, imported from http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.co.uk the price will be £287 + import duty but this will still work out significantly cheaper.
As part of the new prop install I will run through an alignment check (feeler gauges have just been ordered). I will follow the prop install / lapping guide on here.

When I winterized I didn't do any fluid changes, this was due to the low hours on the oil since its last change (approx 20) with only 60hrs since a full rebuild. I am however going to change the oil (20w50) along with changing the transmission fluid. New spark plugs, new filter and I also have a replacement fuel filter to install.
(oil extractor pump (pela) and a filter wrench are also on order)

A new impeller will be ordered and installed just need to find a UK supplier.

So what am I missing, are there any annual checks that you guys perform in the spring?


Fram filters are the best aren't they?