i need help

Ben#155 wrote: And is this nautique still for sale?

You did take note that this is a three year old post . . .

If that is the stern light receptacle that I see on the port gunnel, then thats a '90 for sure. A '91 would have it mounted on the transom next to the rear tow point.

Based on tims description of the ski platform looks to be a 90. Here are the pics for all to see.

Hey Clive,
I haven't seen the pictures (I am at work at the network blocks photobucket) but 1000Euro's for any Correct Craft on this side of the Atlantic is a great price, but I would expect a LOT of work.

Make sure you are aware of what you are getting yourself into before you jump in. A full stringer job and interior is going to set you back at least £3-4k with you doing most/all of the work and then there is the time involved which will run into months. If its been sitting outside over winter do you know the condition of the engine?
At the end of all your work you will have a boat that will last for many many years though

There is very little out there for under 10k and all would need a stringer job at some point, a SN2001 £6.5k (ready to go), a project 2001 2.5k with trailer or 1.5k for the twin axle trailer.
There is a very nice looking 1990 ski nautique for £8250 pretty sure its been used in salt water though as its based on the south coast and no idea about the stringers.
http://www.boatsandoutboards.co.uk/speed-boats/1990-ski-nautique-58-v8-on-lpg-trailer-JAY962#

I think if you are open to doing the work you could have found yourself a great project and at a great price.

thanks again guys... ill be here all night waiting..

cliff wrote: could you tell me if the steering is hydraulic or cable operated??

Cable

Thanks guys, ill report back in a few days when i have more information...
"is it not the boat that drives the owner.."

The serial number will tell you the year. If it is pre-1993 you need to check the stringers (see below - copied from a different thread on this site: do a search for used boat checklist). You will be amazed at what might need to be replaced on that boat, but at that price I can understand why it is hard to pass up. Buy it, invest a year and roughly $5,000 - $8,000 and I bet you'd have a great boat.

The following steps should be completed

when inspecting a Pre-1993 Correct Craft for purchase:


* Open the engine cover, and you'll notice hex-head bolts, probably about 4 on each side, running parallel to the engine on the edge of the floor, on the edge of the engine compartment. These are lag bolts screwed right into the wooden stringers. Bring a socket wrench with you and try to tighten each one. They should still bite into the wood well. If they spin freely, the boat probably has some deterioration of the wood in the stringers.



These bolts also continue to the back of the boat under a removable floor piece that covers the prop shaft. Spin those also. Engine mount bolts are also a good indicator, as these attach to wooden mounts as well.

* Walk around on the floor and feel for soft spots. This isn't as big a deal as the stringers, but is still a big job to fix.

* Often when you see a boat with a replaced engine, it's due to improper winterization. When I was shopping around, almost every early 90's SN I came upon in the north had a new engine or short block.

* Drive the boat! The engine should idle smoothly and run hard up to 4400 rpm on the water.

* Make sure the oil pan isn't too rusty- replacing this involves removing the engine from the boat.

* Look in the bilge for fresh oil spots, as this could be a sign of leakage.

* The transmission should shift smoothly, and transmission oil should be clean. The transmissions on these boats are fairly expensive to replace.

* TALK to the seller. Have them describe parts of the boat and feel out their personality. This can tell you how well the boat was taken care of while they owned it.

* The prop should spin smoothly with minor resistance when turned by hand. Position yourself directly behind the propeller, and spin it by hand. Check to be sure the shaft spins smoothly. Any deviation could indicate a bent shaft.

* Electronic ignition is a good thing, although not offered from the factory on these boats. You may want to look for one that has been converted.

Would be a good deal at that amount. Worse case scenario you could part it out. The dash pods alone command big bucks since there are no aftermarket manufacturers and they are in high demand.

Kevin's '79 wrote: I'd say it's a '90 or '91 based on the platform not being solid teak. '92 went to a solid teak platform and the transom had a grab handle under the rear tow eye. Definately looks like it has had a hard life.

Both very good points!

Hmmmmm, what's the euro / dollar conversion???

Kind of a "fixer upper"! There should be a number stamped in the rear of the hull near the swim platform I believe. The first series of numbers will indicate the year.

http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r511/shooter100300/2012-02-12122044.jpg http:/http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r511/shooter100300/2012-02-12121415.jpg/i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r511/shooter100300/2012-02-12121544.jpghttp://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r511/shooter100300/2012-02-12121544.jpg   

Thanks.... ill try that, I have a feeling its early 90`s its being sitting in a yard for the last three years.. open to the elements..ive always wanted one of these boats... <div style="width:480px;text-align:right;"><embed width="480" height="360" src="http://static.pbsrc.com/flash/rss_slideshow.swf" flashvars="rssFeed=http%3A%2F%2Ffeed1169.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fr511%2Fshooter100300%2Ffeed.rss" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" /><a href="http://photobucket.com/redirect/album?showShareLB=1" target="_blank"><img src="http://pic.pbsrc.com/share/icons/embed/btn_geturs.gif" style="border:none;" /></a><a href="http://s1169.photobucket.com/albums/r511/shooter100300/" target="_blank"><img src="http://pic.pbsrc.com/share/icons/embed/btn_viewall.gif" style="border:none;" /></a></div> click this link i think....