Trouble on ignition street

mark c wrote: boat dr wrote: Glad you found our site, we will all be smarter now that you are here. I do try to do my part.

And double post as well!!

boat dr wrote: Glad you found our site, we will all be smarter now that you are here.

I do try to do my part.

Glad you found our site, we will all be smarter now that you are here.

[QUOTE=mark c] . so either i don't have a clue that some had it and some don't or I don't have a clue

We are working on a 'MARINE IGNITION" not an auto. Please post with known info and not your own idea how stuff works. Very litle info from auto,s apply to marine ignition systems.
The Prestolite EI uses no ballast , Mallory chose to incorporate this lower voltage to keep down heat inside the module, while using the "I" term. on the starter solenoid for that extra voltage, 12 volts to the coil, only during cranking.
The lower voltage will increase the service life of said EI module. This will also work for the OEM Prestolite module as well.Both Presolite and the Petronix have a high failure rate due to the increased voltage applied.
This being said, the Mallory will come with instructions of how to properly wire the newer , Mallory,module and the use of a ballast and the solenoid connection to complete the upgrade...Billy

Awesome, that's good to hear

Bri892001 wrote: Big Pappa wrote: ...If I wiggle the key a little as I am cranking I can get a spark here and there but it is not something that is repeatable. So is it sounding like mallory E spark time or is there anything else to try? Just to to look at the simple stuff first: You are sure you are getting consistent voltage from your key switch. That is, when it's in the on position, you are always getting voltage, right?

Yes that is correct, when the key is on I have voltage.

Go back to the post above the original suggestion to install one, I said not all, but some do have this feature and I got a you don't have a clue reply. so either i don't have a clue that some had it and some don't or I don't have a clue about, why and when they were used in the automotive industry.

boat dr wrote: Big Pappa wrote: So is it sounding like mallory E spark time or is there anything else to try? Your module is toast, if you replace with a Mallory E Spark , the ballast and solenoid will be used. Normal run voltage at coil is 9/10 volts, while crank voltage , thru the solenoid will increase to a full 12 volts at the coil for crank only. CorrectCraftParts{ 318-299-8547} has a Mallory conversion for you Prestolite.

How does the coil get 12v during cranking, if I don't have a clue, and boats don't have a connection between the starter solenoid and the ignition coils + terminal?   You sugesting he buy a solenoid, and or install the wiring that boats don't have to get a full 12V to the coil for starting?

Big Pappa wrote: So is it sounding like mallory E spark time or is there anything else to try?

Your module is toast, if you replace with a Mallory E Spark , the ballast and solenoid will be used. Normal run voltage at coil is 9/10 volts, while crank voltage , thru the solenoid will increase to a full 12 volts at the coil for crank only.

CorrectCraftParts{ 318-299-8547} has a Mallory conversion for you Prestolite.

Kris - You can get a replacement module if you want to stay with this dizzy:

Module

PS here is a tip from that site-
Most non-spark issues are a result of improper air gap between trigger wheel "teeth" (high point of trigger wheel) and the face of the sensor (pick up), gap must be between .008" to .010", use a non-magnetic feeler gauge. Tighten the sensor retaining screw to 3 to 5 inch pounds of torque.

mark c wrote: see my edited reply above

Mark,
Sorry but I didn't remember! Plus, I should have gone back and checked your previous posts.

Yes, how are you doing on the BFN? The only picture I could find was in this thread where you were asking about the colors.

see my edited reply above

Not all but some do, all older cars do. Like my 69 Camaro. Probably started to go away when GM introduced the HEI, 1974 or 75 maybe. Its not a bad thing to have if you've got an engine that is hard to start. you just run a 12 or 14 gauge wire from the starter relay straight to the + side of the coil, then whenever the boat is being cranked you get full voltage to the coil, and a more powerfull spark. GM engines can get the 12v from the aux contact on the starter solenoid, fords and chryslers are going to have to pull it off the starter relay since they don't have an integral starter solenoid with the extra contacts on them specifically for this purpose.

I have been in and around boats since 1958, made my first trip in my grandfathers pacemaker when I was two weeks old. From then until I joined the navy he (USCGA Commander) went thru another half dozen Pacemakers, and Chris Crafts, in the 32 to 36' range. My own boats were almost entirely outboards, from 8 footers with a 3HP Johnson, up to my last boat a 93 mph 17' Hydrostream Viking with a 235HP Johnson, and everything in between, wood, fiberglass aluminum, if it could float we would figure a way to put to big an engine on it. Now I'm working on bringing that nasty 87 BFN I bought a couple of weeks ago back to life.

Gary S wrote: Kris the distributor just grounds thru the clamp. My Dad had a PCM powered center console that started going thru condencers. Being a center console you could not see in very good so finally he pulled the distributor and found the clamp and block rusting.Cleaned it up and did not have any trouble again. Just a thought.

Good to know and it is very possible that that could be rusty. I will give that a good cleaning and see what happens.

You have to have a condesnor somewhere. It may be built into your electronic module (I don't know yours specifically) but the system won't work without one.