Help! prop shaft hard to turn.

BRUTAL!!

I somehow missed this thread but have just caught up on it and I have to give jo-e90 the thumbs up for his persistence and for getting the job done (fingers crossed it is all done now). Joe made a mistake and missed some things when he bought the boat but he is doing stuff himself and learning and you can't fault somebody for learning even if they do make a few mistakes along the way. I am sure I am going to make a few mistakes along the way its just a good job there are guys like you out there to give support when needed.

Fingers crossed you will be on the water soon joe

Pete, I am going to send you some weed in the post so you can sit back and relax a little and maybe get that blood pressure of yours down...I am probably going to need your help in the future with something so you need to stay around a while longer




Disclaimer: I don't actually have any weed and I don't think the postal service like it being sent anyway.

jo-e90 wrote: So with the shaft back in and aligned I seriously have to wait 7 days for the 5200 to cure before a lake test??

SNobsessed wrote: does it spin with 2 fingers now?

How did the strut alignment go? Did the shaft turn freely when it was centered in the log? How close were you able to get the shaft to engine alignment? Less than .003" difference between the coupling flanges top to bottom and port to starboard?

So with the shaft back in and aligned I seriously have to wait 7 days for the 5200 to cure before a lake test??

jo-e90 wrote: I am talking about the 2 bars, not the bracket itself. It just seems that the whole bottom part of the bracket should be flush with the hull instead of just the 2 slabs of aluminum touching the hull.

No, If the hull isn't perfectly flat as in a machined surface, the bracket would rock. The flat bar has been added to give the bracket a two point contact with the hull.

There were several years that CC used a bracket off the strut bolts to hold the steering cable torque tube.

Where are you with this project? Since you are asking about bolt torque, I assume you strut is straightened and you are bolting it back on the hull?

What is the torque on all 4 strut bolts, the 4 outer coupling bolts, and the prop nut?

Aw come on Joe,
tell us how this purchase happened.
even though you have tried peoples nerves(can you not see why?)these guys will still help you fix it right.
get those 4 parts as has been said and suck it up and fix it.

GottaSki wrote: Even a man in the business once told me, "some people just shouldn't own boats"

WOW!!!! That's a great one!!! Yup, it's very fitting.

Sometimes being a boat owner sucks but it builds character. [<:o)]

GlassSeeker wrote: The seller HAD to know it was bent, if they kept that info from you that is some deception there. I'd go back to them. Demand some money back and tell them you'll sue them in small claims court for the cost to repair the strut and other components. While it is buyer beware you might get a sympathetic judge to grant you a judgement of some kind, maybe not all your $$$ back but some...better than nuthin. You certainly could have had a mechanic check it out before buying it. So you do bear responsibility to inspect before you buy. OR- the cost of tuition in the school of Learn As You Go in this case is around $800 or so.

Andy,
Your post pretty much sums it up but really doesn't address all the time we spent way back when N.G. was looking for a boat. I feel the bottom line is he reacted in a "gut" purchase and now is in WAY over his head. Unless he heeds to our suggestions, he will be in DEEP sh**t. Watch, if he does get the boat out on the lake with a trashed coupler, shaft and strut - the trans blow out is next. It doesn't seem the basic concept of a engine to shaft alignment is being understood. He certainly needs big time help.

jo-e90 wrote: Gary S wrote: Billy aka the boat doctor is a regular here and Karen his wife the boat nurse own this. Billy says dont use the socket and long bolt method to remove the shaft coupling or you will ruin it. So I am holding off on removing the coupler for now for fear of ruining it on removal. I think he wants to sell me an A.R.E.but I am way over budget hum

Joe....

Who cares about the coupler and shaft?   It is already junk, right now as you are looking at it, in the boat, now. Junk.

So is the shaft. Junk, right now.

We have been saying it is junk.   It;s junk, they both are. Junk.


Get it out of there, they are both junk.

Replace the shaft and coupler.   Period.

Along with strut and cutlass bearing. 4 things Joe.

Strut, cutlass, shaft and coupler.

Start pricing them and getting them ordered.


Anything short of those 4 and it won't be right. You'll end up spending the cash and labor again, maybe even lots more.   



If you fix just the strut only, you will never get the alignment right with a loose coupler and keyway.

Hang in there Pete, success is coming.

Keep in mind that very few first time new owners who only just found out what a strut is last week, have ever, ever attempted driveline and rudder repair, steering cable, wiring speakers in coaming pad, carb., trailer brakes, etc. etc. while wanting to be on the water yestarday.

kapla wrote: hey Pete, you´ve been talking to 79nautique lately? got some of his mood huh?

Seb,
As mentioned, yes I think I'm stupid to keep trying. Yup, the old attention span is getting so short that it's tough to maintain and not do a "79" on this one!   

I haven't talked to him or exchanged emails in quite some time with Chris. It's threads like this one that he would absolutely go wild on!!

hey Pete, you´ve been talking to 79nautique lately? got some of his mood huh?