Winnebaggo Brake issue |
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GottaSki
Grand Poobah Joined: April-21-2005 Location: NE CT Status: Offline Points: 3365 |
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Posted: October-23-2012 at 12:27am |
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Yes on the steering damper, bigger the better.
And of course any loose steering component or kingpin is suspect Next do a rough check of the toe-in with a tape measure. If it persists, I think inadequate Caster is suspect, since this sounds like death wobble. A little 1-3 degree shim between the leaf spring and axle might be all it needs to get back in spec, but check with an alignment specialist about that |
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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole |
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peter1234
Grand Poobah Joined: February-03-2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2756 |
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when you drive it down the road stop every mile or two and use a spray bottle with water in it you can hit the rotors with a light spray then reach you head around to the calipers and see what parts get the hottest. saves some dirty hands and hot fingers reaction
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former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go
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81nautique
Grand Poobah Joined: September-03-2005 Location: Big Rock, Il Status: Offline Points: 5796 |
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homework sign up and do some poking around, lot's of info here because it's chassis specific.
Randy you have plenty of time to get the rig fixed as your probably done for the season, I would do some homework before spending any more money. Most of it depends on how much you're going to drive the motorhome. If your going back and forth to the lake once a month put the cheap stuff in but if you plan to drive it any sort of distance the extra cost for Bilsteins or Konis is worth it. |
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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails
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phatsat67
Grand Poobah Joined: March-13-2006 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 6157 |
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I would say the Bilstine stabelizer is worth the cash the shocks would not be. A friend (used to be a friend) had a dual setup on a truck that would death wobble over a hair in the road and it made it drive even better than it did when it was stock and bran new.
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Randy_in_Ohio
Platinum Member Joined: September-13-2006 Location: N. Canton, OH. Status: Offline Points: 1891 |
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It's amazing how much more help I've got here on CCF than over on the classic Winnebago site!
Looking at shocks for the front. Summit racing has "pro-comp" ES-1000 for 29.99 ea. I read a lot about Bilstein being the preferred shock... but these are almost 90.00 a piece. Is it really worth three times as much for the Bilsteins or will the Pro-Comp be sufficient. Both are specifically for motorhomes. |
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Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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Sounds like the guys have you on a good path with the steering stabilizer regarding the wobble. On the clunk though, I would check to see if the caliper has any play in it. In other words, when you apply brake force, that caliper wants to "roll" forward. It could be smacking into the steering knuckle or something. I had an old Buick with bad calliper mount bushings. It wasn't unsafe, but it would make a helluva rattle over bumps and things. Also, keep in mind all of the steering components... which will see much different forces while under braking that not. This clunk when you hit the brakes could be tie rod ends, ball joints, stabilizer bar, drag links etc. Play in these could be a little difficult to find by hand, because you're unlikely to generate the kind of force with your hands that they'll see rolling down the road... and stopping the vehicle. |
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Randy_in_Ohio
Platinum Member Joined: September-13-2006 Location: N. Canton, OH. Status: Offline Points: 1891 |
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Alan- the shop I took it to installed new rotors, pads, callipers, and the caliper supply hoses. I'll look those hoses over again and make sure that the clamps aren't restricting them somehow.
I took the old steering stabilizer off and I'm pretty sure that's what was causing the wobble/shake. I have a new Bilstein steering stabilizer ordered. I think I'll pick up a set of shocks for the front while I'm at it, they look original too and not hard to replace. The clunking sound that I hear after driving it for awhile has to be in the brake system. Once I get the steering stabilizer installed, I'm going to take it for a ride and then bring it back and jack it up and see if those brakes are dragging. I looked into that steer safe system, looks like a good thing to have but at over 400 I think I'll hold off on that for now. I don't plan on putting a whole lot of miles on her anyway. Just want it to be safe and drive somewhat respectably. |
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81nautique
Grand Poobah Joined: September-03-2005 Location: Big Rock, Il Status: Offline Points: 5796 |
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There is a yahoo group called motorhomep-30. Everything you need to know about the p30 is there. Every one has the same issues and all the fixes are there, just read through the forum and ask questions there.
If I remember correctly the bell cranks are an issue with the p30 also. I easily spent $1500 on my front end getting it tightened up and it still drivers like a bakery delivery truck with a house bolted to it. |
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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails
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phatsat67
Grand Poobah Joined: March-13-2006 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 6157 |
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Definatly about the brake hoses Alan. I would only hope that as cheap as hoses are any half way decent shop would replace along with any caliper replacement unless the hose was known to be new.
I should have stated that all my reccomendations were made with all joints/tie rod ends in known good condition. Randy I say forget that shop and rely on CCF.com!!! Winnebaggofan.com! |
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phatsat67
Grand Poobah Joined: March-13-2006 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 6157 |
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Those things are the berrys!!!! |
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Jllogan
Platinum Member Joined: May-18-2011 Location: canton, OH Status: Offline Points: 1728 |
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81nautique
Grand Poobah Joined: September-03-2005 Location: Big Rock, Il Status: Offline Points: 5796 |
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Randy I didn't read the whole post but I will later tonight. First problem with your brakes sticking is the rubber hose that connects to the calipers is held to the A frame by a small bracket. These old rubber hoses swell and the clamp restricts the flow of fluid. Under braking you apply enough force to get fluid to the caliper but there is no way it can return. I burned up a new set of brakes on my p30, when I asked a truck mechanic about it he new instantly what was wrong and he was correct. Replaced hoses never had another problem. I do have a little brake rattle when they are not applied but I turn the radio up and it goes away.
As for the steering you should consider a new Bilstein steering stabilizer and possily a Steer Safe system and some new front shocks. I also put a much larger IDP Front roll bar. The P30 are called wiggle wagons and you need to spend a little money under the front to get them to handle reasonably. |
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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails
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Randy_in_Ohio
Platinum Member Joined: September-13-2006 Location: N. Canton, OH. Status: Offline Points: 1891 |
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went up to Summit last night to get the stabilizer and they didn't have it in stock! The guy I talked to on the phone told me to bring the old one to match it he didn't mention that they didn't have it! They're shipping it for free and I should have it by Wednesday.
They sold me a Bilstein one. I don't think they had the mud truck version peter I'm pretty sure that this steering stabilizer is shot, and almost certainly causing the wobble/shaking but I don't think it's causing the clunking sound. That's got to be coming from the brakes. once I get the stabilizer back on it I'll take it for a ride and bring it back and jack it up and see if those things are dragging. I have a feeling I'm going to be buying more brake parts. I can't believe that shop couldn't figure this out. Seems obvious to me now. Someone used the term "parts hangers" earlier, I think that's what we got here. |
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peter1234
Grand Poobah Joined: February-03-2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2756 |
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Randy if you get the chance to do the double stabilizer that they use on lifted mud trucks i wouldnt hesitate
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former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go
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Randy_in_Ohio
Platinum Member Joined: September-13-2006 Location: N. Canton, OH. Status: Offline Points: 1891 |
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I just found another use for my OJ Prop Puller. Just used it along with a 3" 3/8" socket extension to pop the tapered bolt out that held the steering damper to the arm thing that steers (not sure of the name of this) it popped right out! The bolts came off really easy too. I was expecting it to be a lot more of a PITA! I'm on my way to Summit to pick up the new one.
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dochockey
Gold Member Joined: September-16-2009 Location: Colorado Status: Offline Points: 638 |
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Growing up we had a Coachman and I remember when hitting a bump like a railroad track the front end would shake the same way your describing the steering wheel would go back and forth violently until you basically came to a stop. But I was around 12 and I don't know what caused it but I will ask my dad.
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1989 Teal Ski Nautique
1967 Mustang Harris Float Sunfish |
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Randy_in_Ohio
Platinum Member Joined: September-13-2006 Location: N. Canton, OH. Status: Offline Points: 1891 |
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I do have Chrome Wheel covers. I had the original aluminium ones but I lost one on the way home from that shop because they dodn't put it on right. I went back and found it on the side of the highway but it was too bent up to use. I ended up buying a new set of chrome ones because I couldn't find a replacement anywhere. The new ones attach a lot better than the old style. I don't think that is where this clunking is coming from, but I will drive it without them anyway just to rule it out. The clunking was happening before the new wheel covers and while I had the old wheel covers. I heard a clicking sound when I first drove it and the PO said it was the one wheel cover, which I believe he was right, but that was more of a clicking sound, this clunking sound is different. Got to jack it up on i beam to check the king pins. Use pry bar to move wheel, have partner watch king pin area. Doesn't sound like your last shop was capable, or wanted to, to check them. They ride in brass bushings, require grease too. 1984 huh? Your going to have play. You are going to hate the bill for doing that job. I'd find a cheaper fix to improve the wobble issue, like the stabaalizer. It is likely you have many parts with wear and combined, it's unlikely you are going to find ONE part to cure the issue. [/QUOTE] My friend down the road came down while I was soaking the stabilizer bolts with Kroil. He said I don't have king pins on this, I have ball joints. I'll post some pics. I called Summit Racing and I think they have a steering stabilizer in stock that will work. It's for a P30 chassis. I'm going to remove the old one and take it to Summit with me. Summit has the shocks in stock too, they don't look too hard to replace as long as the bolts move. I've had them soaking in Kroil all day. That stabilizer definitely looks original. |
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ononewheel
Gold Member Joined: June-21-2011 Location: B Status: Offline Points: 776 |
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Do you by chance have chrome wheel covers?
Those f@#*!% can do some funny noises, especially if it's ever tagged a curb, even slightly. Creates some sort of harmonics, until the brakes are applied, changing harmonics. Take those covers off and take it for a ride, I've delt with many covers that I'd say it is worth a try if you even have them. My last truck had some silicon behind it. Got to jack it up on i beam to check the king pins. Use pry bar to move wheel, have partner watch king pin area. Doesn't sound like your last shop was capable, or wanted to, to check them. They ride in brass bushings, require grease too. 1984 huh? Your going to have play. You are going to hate the bill for doing that job. I'd find a cheaper fix to improve the wobble issue, like the stabaalizer. It is likely you have many parts with wear and combined, it's unlikely you are going to find ONE part to cure the issue. |
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If we let the professionals do everything it takes all the fun out of youtube
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harddock
Platinum Member Joined: June-04-2008 Location: Toontown, MA Status: Offline Points: 1763 |
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Check the tie rod ends. I've had trucks do the shaky thing and that was the problem especially on Ford
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peter1234
Grand Poobah Joined: February-03-2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2756 |
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The steering damper when new will help mask a little looseness all through the system, if your drag link , tie rod ends steering box all have a slight bit of play then it shows itself quick when the stabilizer is bad, , also either too much toe in or out will do this, the rattle still sounds like caliper / pads
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former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go
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Randy_in_Ohio
Platinum Member Joined: September-13-2006 Location: N. Canton, OH. Status: Offline Points: 1891 |
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Tim, I think if it was a king pin making the clunking it would do it all the time, not only after being driven for a while. And the clunking sound will go away when you apply the brake.
Now the wobble/shaking, I'm going to replace that steering damper and see if that helps. Probably needs to be replaced anyway if it's original. |
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Randy_in_Ohio
Platinum Member Joined: September-13-2006 Location: N. Canton, OH. Status: Offline Points: 1891 |
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I think your both right. seems like I have an issue with the steering damper. It does look original, The shocks should probably be swapped out too.
This is what I will do. It kind scares me to have someone in the vehicle with the engine running while it's up on jack stand with the wheels off. I bought a 15ton bottle jack and a set of 6 ton jack stands. Getting the front end of a 15,000 pound vehicle off the ground is a lot different that the front end of my Tundra! I don't really have a good place to do it either. Another reason I took it to the shop!
Bingo! That's what I was thinking! I asked the guy at the shop I took it to if I was able to troubleshoot the problem if he would fix it? I kind of feel they don't want to see me or my classic coach again!
It's an 84, but it only has 51,000 mile on it. The PO said he used it a lot but never went on really long trips. |
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watrski
Senior Member Joined: December-01-2010 Location: Chippewa Lake Status: Offline Points: 393 |
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Once you take it off you will know if it is good or bad, no way to tell otherwise. |
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Tubing Sucks.
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Randy_in_Ohio
Platinum Member Joined: September-13-2006 Location: N. Canton, OH. Status: Offline Points: 1891 |
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I think I'm going to replace that steering damper next, could this make a clunking sound if it was bad? It's tight, you can't move it around. |
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watrski
Senior Member Joined: December-01-2010 Location: Chippewa Lake Status: Offline Points: 393 |
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http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/kingpin.pdf
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Tubing Sucks.
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Randy_in_Ohio
Platinum Member Joined: September-13-2006 Location: N. Canton, OH. Status: Offline Points: 1891 |
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Good idea, I will do that to see if they are getting hot. I've crawled under it and felt the rotors and clipers to see if they were hot after the clunking starts, they are warm, nothing seems too hot, but one doesn't seem any warmer than the other. If the rotor are new (only about 300 miles on them) can they be warped? how can I tell if they are warped? do I need to take them off and take them to a machine shop? No ABS system. The clunking sound only happens after it has been driven a while. Never at first. Once the clunking starts, the clunking will go away if I apply the brakes. Going over bumps seems to activate the wobble/shake, but I haven't had a violent shaking like the first time since they replaced the brakes. I'm convinced now after reading the responses here that I should replace this steering damper, it does appear to be original as do the shocks. It has air bags in the coil springs, they were completely rotted out and I replaced those when I first got it and noticed they were shot. It was after I replaced these air bags and took it for a test drive that I had the violent shaking episode. |
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Randy_in_Ohio
Platinum Member Joined: September-13-2006 Location: N. Canton, OH. Status: Offline Points: 1891 |
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I do have a bit of play in the wheel and do feel the need to correct it at highway speeds. I figured this was typical of these vehicles... This is the only RV I've ever drove, the largest vehicle besides this that I ever drove was our old GMC Suburban, so I'm not really sure what to expect. The rotors were replaced along with the callipers, supply hoses, and pads. Should I remove the rotors and take them to a machine shop and have them look at them?I don't know if the shop pulled them off and put them on a machine that would tell them if they were warped or if they just assumed since they were new they must be fine. No ABS system
I'm not sure how to check for wear at the king pins, but the shop said everything on the front end was tight. They said they took a pry bar to everything looking for play and found nothing. This last time they said that their was some play in this arm that comes down from the pedal(sorry don't know what this part is called, they said they didn't even know what it was called(red flag?)) I had the service manager show me what he was talking about, we crawled under it and he pointed to the place where he said the play was, but it hardly moved at all, maybe 1/32" He didn't even seem to convinced that it was a problem but assured me that the part wouldn't be available anyway and would need to be manufactured by a machine shop and would cost a lot of $$. They checked the bearings, said they are fine. I also had it jacked up and they appeared fine to me and my buddy who helped me. the wheels spun fine no worn bearing sounds... |
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phatsat67
Grand Poobah Joined: March-13-2006 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 6157 |
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Bang. Peter is on point. I feel as if you have two different problems. The problem causing the less violent shaking and the noise then the problem causing the high speed wobble. The violent shake would be the steering dampner (if it has one looks like a shock attached to the axle and steering linkage or frame). They don't have to have a lot of miles on them to go bad. Mostly age is the problem here due to seals leaking. A tire can also cause death wobble and you will see no other symptoms of a bad tire.
As far as the brakes sticking you may need to drive it get it hot and very quickly jack up the front end and spin the wheels. Have someone else in the vehicle apply the brakes while you try to spin each wheel then release the pedal and see how slow or fast the brakes release. This will either prove or disprove the theroy of the brakes sticking. On to the noise. Most people can work on cars just fine but they cannot diagnose problems. Part hangers... which sounds like the shop you are working with. I have somewhat of an idea that this has some miles on it. Brake pads will wear calipers and caliper stands over time. If there is a slight warp in the rotor this might not be felt but it can cause said caliper or pads to move forward and backward as the rotor rotates sometimes causing noise. The only remedy for this is usually finding a replacement spindle that has less wear on it or just a caliper stand if it comes off of the spindle. Get crackin and fix that big box! |
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MartyMabe
Grand Poobah Joined: February-21-2006 Location: High Point,NC Status: Offline Points: 3991 |
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Randy-- It's Jimmy Hoffa rolling around in your frame rails
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peter1234
Grand Poobah Joined: February-03-2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2756 |
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it sounds like brakes still but in my one ton the death wobble occurs every time my steering stabilizer wears out bumps seem to contribute to it
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former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go
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