do you think this needs to be repaired?

TRBenj wrote: The comment, "your vessel has tow (sic) centerline stringers running stern to bow with only attachment bonds to the port and starboard and foam injected" is a little curious. I dont know what he means by the part in bold, but it sounds like he may not have as good handle on how Correct Craft built boats as he thinks he does.

I totally agree with this statement. It was my very first thought about this "surveyor".

I sent an email to the guy who surveyed and here are his comments:

what do you guys think about the statement I highlighted in bold?
your advise is appreciated.

" I have received your e-mail and should report to you the following; as stated to you at time of inspection, the vessel did in fact have stress cracks to the port and strbd hull side areas. A moisture test was taken and reveled only + or -15% moisture to the hull / stringer areas. Also, at time or inspection we spoke of the installation of new flooring / carpet; in this case, if the floor / hull side was separated in past time it was not evident at time of inspection. However, a separation of the floor to hull bond would not create 50 to 60 inch horizontal cracks unless the complete bond was disrupted. as stated, there was evidence of impact damage to these areas from docking resulting in hull side flex creating stress not fractures. Furthermore, your vessel has tow centerline stringers running stern to bow with only attachment bonds to the port and starboard and foam injected. If the stringers were compromised, there would be major fracturing to the hull bottom near the chines not the hull sides. If you would like, we can meet and I will go over the areas with you verbally so as to fully understand the stress cracks.

    Also, Drilling 25mm holes behind the engine will not prove hull side stress only motor mount and center line structure integrity."

francois - I recommend you take a core sample of the stringer on the side of the stress crack. To do this, get a 1 inch hole saw. Drill the hole behind the engine, only drill until you cut through the glass shell. Then you will have visibility to the wood. If the wood is wet/decaying, let us know. If it is dry, then just seal it back up with some epoxy resin & fiberglass cloth.

Also look at the floor-to-hull joint next to the stress crack - is it separated?

8122pbrainard wrote: Francois, Egon is correct that the scuffs will wet sand/buff out. Do it yourself. On the chine nicks, you can leave them or Egon is correct that it won't hurt to leave them. If you do want them fixed, get a gel repair kit and do it yourself. The stress cracks on the hull side do concern me. They are typical when the stringers start to fail/rot. Did the surveyor investigate the stringer condition? What did he say? If he didn't check the stringers, then I sorry to say you picked the wrong surveyor.

well the report says the following for the stringers: "good condition.
there were 2 stiffening stringers that were visible in the engine well. they were on the lower hull 2 feet below the hull to deck joint seam."

they define good condition as only minor cosmetic or structural discrepancis noted.

about repairing the nicks, do those only require gelcoat patching, and no fiberglass work? I've never done such repairs.

thanks

Those "nicks" don't look large enough to mess with. The larger area looks as if it should buff out easy enough. Clean it up good and you'll be ready to go. Good luck.
Happy New Year back at ya...