Bad coil?

Gun-driver, is the Standard AL483 the correct dizzy cap for the Prestolight cap for my 1984 SN2001? From the pictures it looks like it does not have the screw down flanges that mine has. Maybe the pic was a stock photo or something. Thanks for the help

Rockauto site

I think I have determined that my dizzy definitely has the screw down Prestolite version and has been updated with Pertronics Electronic Ignition. So if anyone can help me with the part no for this I would appreciate it. I realize I can order this from one of the boat parts suppliers, but was hoping to source it local for future simplicity.

Hi guys, I'll jump in here. I also have an 1984 SN with the same EI and the exact same issue. (by the way Autolite 24 is correct). Cleaned and rebuilt the primary side of the carb and replaced the coil, no difference. I read on here that there MAY be an issue with an oil filled coil on it's side having issues (air bubble, arcing, getting hot) and that a ceramic filled coil is the way to go.   However lots of people use oil filled with no problems, but I dropped a ceramic coil in yesterday and I will let you know if anything changes.

I have a question as well. I ordered a set of PCM wires at the Nautique dealer. While waiting around I talked to a mechanic there about wires and he old me the wires on the new boats carry a lot of resistance. I happen to have my old 7mm PCM wire with me and it measured 0.6 ohms of resistance. Then we tested the new wire and it had 388 ohms of resistance. I didn't want the new wires, Dealer called PCM, they just said it was the right part number and didn't know anything about the original wires and the resistance. Anyone know about that issue?

Also, Advance Auto web site says Autolite #24 is for lawn and garden equipment.

You'll get more responses if you learn how to link. I that's the FRAM canister element you are correct, I think skidim only carries the one. Other brands make the same element that will fit, try searching its been posted here before. Most seem to entirely change it out for the spin on unit like an oil filter, not sure why though.

My plug wires are 90s

Are the plug boots supposed to be straight or angled at the plug attachment end?

Plugs are autolight #24, buy them anywhere. I was able to make 80's vintage Ford F150 351 plug wires work. I bought NAPA gold version.

Thanks so much gun-driver. For me the coil on my boat is the one without the resister so I found out after I had bought the one you show here. I did not have my old one in hand and when I got to the boat to swap the new w old, the coil on it clearly said external resister not needed. So off to NAPA I went to swap coils. Not sure if it is why, but my boat has been converted to Pertronix, which I was not aware of. Anyhow, new coil or not, it did not fix the misfire. Next week I will pup the tuneup parts. How about the plugs?

Unless you know specific part numbers I've learned from experience to order from SKIDIM, Whitelake, N3 or go to a PCM dealer, Nautique or a long time Supra dealer. Local parts house is usually a crap shoot much beyond oil and filters. Prestolite cap shouldnt be hard to find, don't buy wires unless they're for a 351 marine engine, cars use shorter wires.

ny_nautique wrote: This is the standard coil for your engine.

Yes I know that but trying to cross reference locally.

Can anyone provide me with some part nos.? Are these coils the same as those for street use on older cars such as Mustang? Napa sells one, part no. IC10SB,$23.50. So is this the correct coil. Don't know if my engine has been converted as suggested above. I know I have points. Will the Epoxy filled coil work either way? If so I would just go for that. Trying to buy one today before weekend. Nothing like waiting til last minute.

That coil will eventually leave you stranded.

Hey there Big Daddy (and Mama too) hope to see you guys this summer.

How you wire your EI conversion depends on if you have a resistor type coil or not.
If you have a resistor coil you can bypass the ballast resistor, if you do not have a resistor type coil you still need to run through the ballast resistor.

This is all neither here nor there because the OP said she has points. I would check to see if the ballast resistor is bad and over heating the coil.

gun-driver wrote: Bri892001 wrote: So, a coil is going along happy seeing, what 8-10 volts?, for years, then all of sudden, wham! 12 volts after an electronic conversion. If you notice in the drawing the distributor gets the 12v it needs from the in side of the resistor but the coil is still getting its power through the resister.

True, but that's a drawing of wiring for a newer Mallory.

I believe the older electronic conversions, bypassed the resister, therefore delivering a full 12 volts to the coil after conversion, like this:

flooding carb?