Prop shaft came loose

He's in Georgia, the weather is not nice for doing stringers now and probably won't be until sometime in September.

Merritt,
If you know anything these boats, it's that any one of them older than a '92 will eventually need new stringers. A very, very select few may get away from the dirty deed depending how they were used and stored.
It's just a fact of life. Many members here have been through it. Most every one of them say they never want to do it again, but then there the few who actually pick up another project boat and go through the whole ordeal again. It's a time consuming chore but one that can save yourself thousands of dollars if you do it yourself. Many members here attempted it with virtually no skills and was able to complete it with our encouragement.
I know probably not what you wanted to hear but a very satisfying projet when it's completed and you know it was done right.

Merritt - You can bolster it with alum. angle for this summer & then tear into it after the ski season. If you tear into it right now, you might get it done about then, but at least you will have nice weather for working on it (small consolation).

You would take a pretty big price hit selling it with bad stringers.

Just searched posts about stringer replacement.
Someone mentioned using angled metal for motor mounts.

My stringers are mostly rotted in the back. Under the motor is the strongest place.

Is using angled metal on three sides of the stringers to give motor mounts enough support a justifiable repair?
Or would that just be spraying Lysol on a pile of dog poo on the living room floor?

Oh the alignment was off enough to measure it in fingers rather than feelers. It was probably a quarter to half an inch on the starboard side.

I know you said Billy and Karen, but I'm a "buy local" when I can kind of guy. School teacher. I get paid with local tax dollars. He's a friend who advertises not be undersold. I told him the price I would get at Skidim and expect him to match it. He's ordering from them anyway and pretty much letting me have access to the tools I need.
This time is a matter of principle.
I'll still let you know the price.

merrittarnold wrote: Saw my error in checking alignment. Didn't loosen the coupling bolts to check(missed that somehow) with feeler gauge. Checked today; not cool. I had my 12 year old watch the video with me and now he really understands. Might try and get brother-in-law to watch it too. 8122pbrainard wrote: Merritt, We have had some just try to fit the .003" feeler gauge between the coupling halves without loosening up the bolts holding the halves together. What were the measurements when you checked your alignment with the feeler gauge? I sure hope your brother in law wasn't involved! No wobble at all in the strut so may not have to replace that bushing, I hope.

Considering the bad alignment, I'd say you will need a new cutlass bearing too.

I'm in Athens Georgia. Took my boat ,"Summer School" by the way, to Athens Marine. The owner not only loaned my a prop puller , he went out and helped me take it off. He is ordering a double taper for me.
Watched Pete's video about alignment again today. Saw my error in checking alignment. Didn't loosen the coupling bolts to check(missed that somehow) with feeler gauge. Checked today; not cool. I had my 12 year old watch the video with me and now he really understands. Might try and get brother-in-law to watch it too.
Have another issue. What's the proper way to remove the rudder in order to get the shaft out and in?

No wobble at all in the strut so may not have to replace that bushing, I hope.

Well this discussion got me to check the shaft and coupler on the '63 and guess what, I can slide the coupler on and off.

The shaft dia is 0.992 and does not appear to be damaged from wobbling in the coupler, the diameter is the same if I measure a few inches from the end of the shaft. My guess is that someone replaced the shaft and re-used the original coupler which was matched to a larger shaft?

I think someone mentioned you can buy a new coupler with an undersized hole and have it machined. What is the initial size - I hope my shaft diameter is not too small.

-Phil

Merritt,
I agree with Chris - just keep moving forward and ask questions. I'm sorry for my comment about giving up on you but, it seemed to me you just weren't reading our comments. If you can handle the extra cost, I also recommend the ARE system. I'm currently installing one now. It sure beats the heat shrink. For cost comparing, give Billy or Karen a call at My Correct Parts. 318 386 2825

I'm still ROFLOL'ing about the welding of the coupling to the shaft. I wouldn't doubt that hacker tried the JB weld before the welding.

SNobsessed wrote: In lieu of cooling the shaft, I just heated the coupler on the hot grill for about an hour. It slid right on.

Yes, Chris I know that it can be done without cooling the shaft, athough having it cooler just might give you the couple extra seconds you need before it's too late. Especially if you've never done anything like this before. I like to err on the side of caution.
I do like the idea of putting the shaft through the strut and shaft log and then packing the end of it in ice too.

SNobsessed wrote: Merritt - Not doubting your determination to get this done, but if you disclose your area maybe a veteran CCF'r is in your city & can stop by to give you some pointers.

Chris makes a good point here. You never know when someone is close by!

This is one of those things that I like to call the "snowball effect". One little thing (or not so little thing) snowballs into something much more complex. Trust me....it's a part of owning a boat and why people can't understand our obsession with them.

Definitely plan on replacing the shaft packing rope. Get the teflon or graphite stuff.
Seeing as you have the shaft out we normally recommend replacing the strut bushing too. That one can also be a pain in the ass to remove but if you don't, it'll come back and haunt you shortly after you get everything back together. SKIDIM can help you get the right stuff on both counts.

There is a post on here someplace that has FAQ in it and hyperlinks to posts that give you direction on these two specific tasks. If you can't find it, maybe someone can put a hyperlink here for you.

After you finally get everything done, not only will you have a much better understanding of your boat but you'll appreciate it so much more knowing that everything was done right.
It's still so worth it when you're finally able to enjoy your new found skill set with your family. That's where the real obsession is at and what those of little faith just don't understand. It is just money after all.

I can't take time to read this entire topic, but I did notice your question about the setscrews in the coupler. You cannot use "Just any bolts." Setscrews have a special end of them designed to bite into the shaft. It is like a little circle and is somewhat sharp. They are also made of very hard steel. If you go back with the same type of installation, you need to go to a good hardware store or to an industrial supply to get your setscrews. If you buy a new coupler it will come with one. I have several good used couplers if you want to save some dollars. PM me if you do, because I don't read posts very often.
Art

ARE--there is no heat shrink fit of anything=way easier.

Get the prop off? Prop puller is what to search for...borrow if you can.

SkiDIM can help you figure out your shaft length and whatever else you might need to complete the job. new packing for the shaft.


you are going to need to be patient and determined.

it may take a couple of orders to get all you need or to get it right. that's just how life is. It might take 4 orders/shipping etc.

strut bushings are separate items.


If you can do this yourself you can save a ton of money. It's not easy to find good inboard mechanics. Alot of places will take your money($100hr) and not do as good a job as you yourself could do. Like the guy Hollywood is talking about who broke out the arc welder and "fixed it" LOL.

Blackfoot, you would make a good teacher. You just answered a lot of my questions. I was trying to understand what an ARE coupling must look like in order to heat shrink it onto a tapered shaft. Definitely sounds better than the single taper.
I will search on here to find out how to take off the prop (some special tool I think).
Will the ARE system come with the replacement parts in the strut and where the prop comes through the hull or is that some other part I need to purchase or are the originals okay?
I just hate to order it, get it home, then realize I need something else.
Also what prop lehgth to I order? (1979 Nautique)