77 Tique clunk sound

You might want to raise the idle speed - 650RPM is a good setting.

Sounds like you need to tighten up the packing gland. Search for a 'how to' on the site, should be here somewhere.

Thanks again for all I the information and detailed instructions. I got the engine lifted and the trans pulled this evening. The new damper has been installed, the old one was very obviously damaged. I was going to put the trans back in this evening but I decided to clean it up and give it a fresh coat of paint.

I did notice that the inside of the bell housing was quite dirty, some very dark oil residue, wasnt red like trans fluid and a lot of grime. Is it possible that I have a bad seal somewhere?

I took a few pictures but I can't seem to upload them from my phone. I'll try to post them tomorrow.

Thanks.

I received the Damper and new bolts in the mail today,I will probably get started on the projet this evening once it cools down...its been pretty warm in Michigan. Does anyone have teh torque specs required for the damper bolts, bellhousing to engine and and any others?

No gaskets you have worry about.
Can't help with the bolts. My engine is a Chevy.

When my damper let go, pieces of it wedged in between the flywheel and bellhousing and stopped the engine cold. I had to backup the crank bolt to free it up and it didn't scratch the flywheel. It gouged the inside of the bellhousing so bad that I had to grind several high spots down enough to make sure the flywheel cleared OK. I think you're flywheel will be fine. The only caveat would be if there are some missing teeth on it. Probably should replace it then. I would think the outer ring could just be replaced also. It would be easy enough to remove the starter and spin the flywheel beforehand to verify that.
The damper bolts on my engine were shouldered and the head of one was pretty mangled. If I remember right I just went to Lowes and picked up some grade 5 bolts to replace them with. It's worked out just fine. I'm sure that some here would freak out having something other than factory equivalent bolts so I would think ebasic or Skidim would have them. I really don't know for sure.
The bellhousing and tranny mounting bolts just reuse.

If you've done axles and transfer cases, you could do this easy then.
You have to remove the tranny to get to the flywheel. That means that the two rear engine/tranny mounts need to come out and you'll have to support the engine when that happens. Put a bottle jack under the rear of each exhaust manifold or if you have a overhead support of some sort to hold up the rear of the engine up while the tranny is pulled. The hardest part is lifting the tranny out of the boat (it's about 100lbs.)but to replace the damper, you don't have to remove it completely. Just slide it back and out of your way enough to get to the bellhousing.
Remove the bellhousing from the engine and then the damper from the flywheel.
Replace and put everything back together. Make sure that you do a shaft alignment then.

There is a FAQ thread here someplace that details everything for the tranny removal/replacement as well as the shaft alignment. If you can't find it I'm sure somebaody will be able to provide a link for you. Some of these guys have it saved for easy access a lot faster than I'll ever be able to find it for you.

Get the damper from ebasicpower.com. Make sure it's a Sachs like Tim has linked above for you.

Any questions and we can help you out. We've walked guys with virtually no experience through this without issue.

I have a few more questions for the group. Is this a job that I could tackle on my own or should it go back to a repair shop. I am a very mechanical person, I have hand built a ton of front axle, rear axle and transfer cases in trucks (I am a driveline engineer) but I know nothing about transmissions or engines.

Also, are there parts that you reccomend that may be of better quality than others? Is there anythign that I MUST change while i have it apart? The model of my trans is 10-17-001.

As usual, I appreciate all of the help.

Steve

I pulled the starter today after work and found a lot of debris in the transmission.

I called the place that did the rebuild, they said they couldn't cover anything because its beyond the warranty. It's pretty disappointing. We have put less than 25 hours on the boat since it was rebuilt. I'm going to try an talk to someone else tomorrow and see if they will at least split the cost of parts with me.

Mille1sj wrote: I just checked the invoice from the repair, all they replaced was the spring plate, two clutch plates and a new seal kit. Anybody know of a good boat mechanic in Michigan or northern Ohio? I live about 30 miles north of Detroit. Is this an issue with an old worn damper, or can this be poor quality from shop? I'm just curious if I should avoid having any further work done at this mechanic. Steve

Steve,
A spring plate might be a slang term for the damper but I've never heard it called that before. However, if you have ever looked at a damper plate, I could see where somebody who is...shall we say....less than knowing, could certainly call it a spring plate.
I really don't know for sure if a spring plate is a legitimate tranny part or not.

Like Tim said, if they didn't replace the damper at the time, shame on them. We normally recommend that anytime somebody has to remove/replace the tranny do yourself a favor and replace the damper at the same time or you'll run into exactly what you're experiencing. Heard of it time after time.
Your issue does sound exactly like a worn damper plate. Poor quality from the shop would be purely because they didn't replace it at the same time.

Looks like ebasic updated their pricing... the high quality Sachs damper is up to $90 now.

Sachs Damper at ebasicpower

I just checked the invoice from the repair, all they replaced was the spring plate, two clutch plates and a new seal kit.

Anybody know of a good boat mechanic in Michigan or northern Ohio? I live about 30 miles north of Detroit.

Is this an issue with an old worn damper, or can this be poor quality from shop? I'm just curious if I should avoid having any further work done at this mechanic.

Steve

Sure sounds like a busted damper

Mille1sj wrote: I initially thought transmission(which was rebuilt last year) however the grinding sound still occurs if the boat is in neutral.

When you rebuilt it did you install a new damper plate?

Hello everyone,

I took our 77 Ski Tique out for a ride yesterday, after puttsing around for about 10 minutes, I started to get up to speed( about 50% throttle). It sounded like the engine reved fast, followed by a grinning noise and clunking. I immediately shut the engine down. It started back up fine, after about 20 sec of running, the grinding noise starts again. The boat also will not go forward or in reverse.

I initially thought transmission(which was rebuilt last year) however the grinding sound still occurs if the boat is in neutral.

I'm not sure what my next steps should be, any input or advice would be great.

Also, no issues with running hot, oil looks good, trans fluid looks good, no odor of burning and no noticeable external damage.
Thanks

Steve