HELP GT-40 No Start

Gary S wrote: coat it with something, coal tar epoxy or one of its modern equivalents.

Gary,
Modern? Maybe you need some updating?
Coal tar epoxy is still around and a common coating. Here it is at McMaster Look under "epoxy coatings" then severe environment.

Alright guys, some great news, the problem is fixed! I did cheat a little bit and have my friends electrical engineer help me. He does electrical installations on big boats so he knows his stuff. Its funny because the first thing he said when he shows up is "ya its probably just a bad connection somewhere" which is all ive been hearing on most of these threads. It took him from 8.a.m. to noon to figure it out. It was a corroded connection with the ignition breaker in the black box under the dash. Cleaned it off with a flathead screwdriver and it starts every time!! He only charged me for three hours of work at $60 an hr which I thought was a deal, I threw him $200 and said keep it. Hope he answers my calls next time :)
I really do appreciate all of the help from you guys. I did buy a multimeter and a test light and payed close attention to what he was doing so hopefully when this happens again I can track it down myself. But for now, I have piece of mind and most importantly, enjoy the boat! Now we can start putting some time into the huge list of projects that are a little more fun! Well, after I pull the engine and change out the rusted oil pan lol! Any down side to putting an aluminum one in?

Thanks again guys, will try to get some pics up soon!

steepndeep wrote: THis is how it was wired when I bought it. new solenoid looks slightly different, from nautiquepart.com

It looks like someone had added a jumper previously... if I'm correct, wired this way, essentially voltage was just coming from the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) and going right to the solenoid on the starter. It was really just bypassing this remote solenoid we're looking at. I'm wondering if it didn't have a good ground and was not switching, therefore the jumper. You shouldn't need that jumper, everything else about the wiring looks correct.

This era has a solenoid on the starter directly mounted to it, and this remote, round solenoid in the pic. This remote solenoid just switches the other solenoid, but it is a hub for other electrical as well.

lewy2001 wrote: Found them.......

Lewy2001 thank you very much! It looks like you have one or two more wires than I do. Its hard to read some of the labels for the wires in your drawing but I appreciate the reply and will keep you all posted on the progress!!

Bri892001 wrote: If you're pretty new to electricity, a test light will tell you most of what you need to know in this particular situation. The only problem is the information it will tell you is binary, just "yes/no" on whether or not you're getting juice, it just won't tell you how much. The posts on the solenoid, shoouulldd just be dealing with the switching of positive, so you can clamp your (test light) negative alligator on a known solid ground, somewhere on the block and poke around with the pointy end. When you get light, you've then got a live positive. You should be getting light when you touch the post with the heavy red wires, at all times, regardless of the key. See what you get and we'll move from there.

Sounds like both the test light and VOM will be good tools. Will hopefully buy tomorrow and will have some time to poke around and see if we can make any progress. I really appreciate the genuine help on the site, you guys are so cool for helping! Thank you!

Kasey,
A VOM is very easy to use. It will come with instructions. A basic one will be about $20. It will come in handy around the house and car too.

DON'T just go throwing parts at the issue until you determine the problem. Don't become just a "parts changer".

steepndeep wrote: ... I opted for a new neutral safety switch as well. Not sure if I wired that up correctly when putting it back together but from how its built it looks like the wires from either side could be interchanged, if I am wrong about this please let me know, I didnt mess with it once it was installed.

That's correct on the Neutral Safety Switch. The two posts are interchangeable because it's just a simple switch.

Bri892001 wrote: steepndeep wrote: Just replaced mine and Im not even getting a click. also replaced neutral safety switch... Kasey What where your symptoms before the parts replacement? Where did you get your replacement solenoid? From a PCM parts supplier?

The symptoms started out as intermittent no start with a click at what sounded like the starter or the solenoid relay-not %100 sure-but almost always when the engine was warmed up, very few times would it not start on the first try but there was one occasion when it failed to start right up cold (Im in Hawaii so "cold" is not really an issue)..

After almost getting stranded out in the ocean, I decided no more boating until the problem is resolved. As I was rinsing out the engine on the trailer after her last outing, it failed to start at all after that. So I ordered a new starter solenoid relay from nautiqueparts.com and after talking with their parts rep I opted for a new neutral safety switch as well. Not sure if I wired that up correctly when putting it back together but from how its built it looks like the wires from either side could be interchanged, if I am wrong about this please let me know, I didnt mess with it once it was installed.

Starting batt-month old, cranked the engine just fine every time

Wired solenoid up as instructed on the nautiqueparts.com website.
http://www.nautiqueparts.com/solenoidstarterrelay.aspx

after it was wired up the fuel pump would not prime, so I wired it back the way it was on the old one

Im guessing VOM is Volt Ohm Meter, I do not have one and have never used one. Is it easy? New with electrical, Ill go out and buy one tomorrow and try to find something on youtube on how to use one, please let me know if there is a certain place I should start. I will get some pictures up here asap. thank you very much for your help!!!

Kasey as suggested the VOM is your best friend especially if the wiring has been switched around somehow.

Hard to get a better picture of the assist solenoid due to its PIA location.

I do remember a hand drawn diagram that someone posted I will try and track it down.

steepndeep wrote: Just replaced mine and Im not even getting a click. also replaced neutral safety switch... Kasey

What where your symptoms before the parts replacement?

Where did you get your replacement solenoid? From a PCM parts supplier?

whiz05403 wrote: If one of the solenoids fails where do you usually order new parts?

This is one source Solenoid

Zach at N3Boatworks (Banner ad above) should be able to get them as well and they are a site sponsor.

Mike,
Get the volt meter out and check what you are getting to the starter during cranking. You never answered if you have a deep cycle for starting?? If so, dump it and get a starting battery.

This picture shows location of power wire with battery +ve cable attached. This assist solenoid applies power to the other starter solenoid on top of starter.



You should be able to tell which solenoid is engaging by touching it while someone else hits the starter. If all the connections are clean on this power assist solenoid and it has the same voltage as you measure at the battery. The voltage should be over 12.5 Volts if you battery has a decent charge stored. That checks out the battery and cabling to the assist solenoid.

Then test the voltage on the other side of the assist solenoid you will see a smaller red battery cable running to the starter check for the same 12.5 Volts when engaged.

The yellow red wire runs from the assist solenoid terminal to the starter solenoid also to activate that solenoid test it has 12 volts on it when the ignition is turned to start position.

Before you replace the assist solenoid take extra care of noting the correct wiring to the terminals.

Hello Gents,

I'm very sorry I did not provide more info. Also it's taken a while to check back here. I coached 14 innings of baseball today as well as watched 9 more. (3 of my boys play ball)

OK, so over the past few years I have been having this clicking sound during start attempts but the motor usually fires up after a few tries. It has been getting progressively worse as time passes on.

I have replaced the positive terminal twice, and have kept the battery well charged as well as kept the terminals clean.

Tomorrow I will swap batteries with my truck and see if that makes any difference.

The connections to the round thingy above the starter are clean as a whistle.

That metal plate you are talking about, what should I do there?

I will look at those connections.

Thanks in advance for the advice.

Mike

I can hear a solenoid engaging on the video. The GT40 has a power assist solenoid on the metal plate at rear of engine. It is on the underside of that plate just below the relays.

I would be cleaning the connections on that solenoid and the battery terminals. Then measure voltages at battery and the power assist solenoid. You may have bad cables that are causing a voltage drop or a flat battery.