79 ski tique velvet 1:1 linkage question anothers

I just had a damper plate failure. I certainly would suggest replacing this thing before it comes apart and leaves you stranded on the lake. also sometimes excessive paint or grime around the detent ball area can make it harder to tell where neutral is located and harder to adjust.

JoeinNY wrote: There is a noticeable detent (or should be) for forward and reverse on your velvet drive. With the cable disconnected you should be able to feel when you have rocked the lever into forward. If you then move the control to the forward position the cable should line up with the hole location of the shift arm on the transmission without having to move if off the detent. If not then you may need some adjustment, if it does then it is more likely that your transmission is occasionally slipping under load. Make sure it has enough fluid, or add some more anyway (be reasonable about it but a little extra doesn’t hurt them. If that doesn’t help it then it maybe time for a rebuild or to buy a rebuilt one.

Thanks. It ran fine, knock on wood, after I changed the fluid. The old fluid was thick and dark. I don't think it had been changed in a while. There is sometimes a grumbly or slightly rately noise when going from neutral to reverse sometimes but when in reverse it fine. Think ill replace the dampening plate this winter after the seasons over. Seems like I've read that's a item that wears out a lot.

8122pbrainard wrote: CRob wrote: I run mine without. Why? There is a reason engines have T stats!

It was running at like 180-190 with a 143 tstat in it. Granted that was last summer when we had like 50 days over 100, 12 over 110, and a 113 degree day. It ran at 150-160 without. I haven't noticed any problems since. But I appreciate the input gents! Sorry for the thread jack...

There is a noticeable detent (or should be) for forward and reverse on your velvet drive. With the cable disconnected you should be able to feel when you have rocked the lever into forward. If you then move the control to the forward position the cable should line up with the hole location of the shift arm on the transmission without having to move if off the detent. If not then you may need some adjustment, if it does then it is more likely that your transmission is occasionally slipping under load. Make sure it has enough fluid, or add some more anyway (be reasonable about it but a little extra doesn’t hurt them. If that doesn’t help it then it maybe time for a rebuild or to buy a rebuilt one.

CRob wrote: I run mine without.

Why? There is a reason engines have T stats!

This thread (and one it links to) talks about cable adjustment, and it links to a thread about Morse control rebuild.

Out on the lake it "sometimes" acts as if it's popping out of gear for a second or two when excelerating. When the throttle is in the forward position, at the tranny, I can push the tranny lever forward a little less than a 1/4 inch forward more. Same for reverse. Should the cable be moving it to the full forward and reverse position? I'm assuming so but not sure how to fix that since any adjustment at the throttle would only lessen the action in one direction or another? New cable?

Also, instead of starting bunches of new threads.

Got new used oil and water gauges in. Free from Pettys marine, in Massillon ohio. Nice guy.
What's the norm operating temp? It sits around 150. Is there a thermostat and what temp should it be? 160?.