secret squirl head quarters, 351w build

Carb looks like she's standing pretty tall hope it fits under the hood.
Nice work.

Manifolds on and time for some wiring. hopefully get the carb and timeing set next

The engine and trans got shot with a gun all together. it looks awesome, and with all the bolts and washers painted their should be no rust.

all together and epoxy primed   

one piece oil pan gasket,new pumps on and a new pan. the biggest oil leak was from the cast dip stick mount that's riveted to the pan. theirs a cork gasket, that probily could of been replaced and then bolted back up. I went the new pan route though.

new carb spacer drilled and taped for the pvc valve.   

I agree that Marine knowledge is needed for your advance curve.
I have seen many pistons with the piston rings fractured, head gaskets blown out and even piston heads with holes burned in them from a little too much advance curve. If it is detonating things break. In the dyno lab a perfectly running 350 Chevy will make 600 psi in the cylinder at wide open throttle. Add a little too much timing introducing detonation and that cylinder pressure can jump to 3,500 PSI or more.
This jump in pressure is what breaks parts. When timing is advanced a little past perfect the chamber gets hot, when it starts to glow red it can ignite the fuel charge early, this early lite off is Detonation, it tries to blow that piston back down in the hole with 7 other pistons pushing it up, creates extreme force on the piston, rings and head gasket. More timing can make power, too much will cause problems.

What's the recommended rpm for the advance weights to kick in with out causing detonation?

inglesideshawn wrote: Im going to have it put on a machine and set up to advance around 2k. Weather it gets new springs or not I guess depends on how it does on the machine

I had a shop work on my dizzy too - they extended the guide slots about 1/8 inch to give me more total advance. Doesn't look like rocket science but having a machine to verify is good thing.

Shawn,
I don't have any use for WD40! After it evaporates, it doesn't leave much lubrication. Try LPS #2.

inglesideshawn wrote: Is their room to put a drain?

Don't think "ball valve". A pet cock is pretty short.

Original went out the window when I did the stringers. Now its more of improving on a design. Ide like to put a remote oil filter on to, just not quite sure were to mount it that would be a better location than were it currently is. or say cleaner    

I might have to put a 90 degree elbow on it. I hope so. I think the filter is kind of dumb if it's hard to drain. I would have fuel all over my hands. I'm gonna try to put that valve on it. It's a small one. I thought about doing what you are doing but like to keep things original if I can. Not that it's always a good thing.

The old filter housing cut off.



new style spin on filter.   

For a "low hour" engine its got considerable amount of cylinder wear (ridge). the rear main leak to a oil pan with a pin hole in it,was drinking a quart of oil at each check, for a 20 year old engine kind of acceptable .
todays project is a spin on fuel filter, and the distributor. looks like theirs two different springs in it and is quite difficult to advance. the housing is going to get bead blasted,the weights are getting new springs set up on a machine.