Hull Drain Plug

63 Skier wrote: When you turn to retrieve a skier, if you always turn to port the plug tends to tighten, if you turn to starboard the plug tends to loosen.

You retrieve a skier? Isn't that what the pick up boat is for?

8122pbrainard wrote: Bri892001 wrote: I've noticed the phenomenon of the plug getting tighter somehow over time. It probably has to do with heating cooling cycles under the doghouse, with the cooler lakewater on the other side. Sorry Brian but I'm not going along with this theory! As mentioned, I still feel someone cross threaded the plug.

I agree that something a little unusal (like a cross threading or debri trapped in the threads) happened to where man-nor-beast could not remove the plug.

However, I'm not ready to let go of the idea that the plug can need a little more force to remove than what it was installed with. And, I'm very careful not to crossthread or overtighten.

I think this phenomemon has been documented. In fact, enter Example B, where we have one Peter Brainard, of Northfield IL, heartily agreeing that Marty Mabe's homemade drain plug removal tool was a great idea:

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=27706&title=drain-plug-too-tight

Now, if the drain plug never got any tighter than the hand-tight installation, why would you ever need a plug removal tool?

I wonder, with some of the high horse power motors are members are running, if the port might not be "puckering"?

RH Rotation never tried radio maybe that's why.Power turn with Resorter?No such thing.

Power turning is what does it. Drop the boat off plane and turn either way in a civilized fashion. Mashing the handle down while you turn is what seizes the drain plug. It will also change the radio station to either gospel or ghetto rap.
You have been warned.

My plug is in transem from the outside.Which way should I turn to avoid seizing ?

Bri892001 wrote: I've noticed the phenomenon of the plug getting tighter somehow over time. It probably has to do with heating cooling cycles under the doghouse, with the cooler lakewater on the other side.

Sorry Brian but I'm not going along with this theory! As mentioned, I still feel someone cross threaded the plug.

Follow up. I know I hate reading these threads only to never know the outcome. Well, the tap arrived today and sure enough it ran through by hand effortlessly. The new drain plug goes 3 3/4 complete turns so I think we should be all set. Thank you all for the speedy responses, ideas, and warnings. You probably save me a ton of unnecessary work. I still don't know what caused the seizure but everything is fine now.

63 Skier wrote: Well thanks for the info, always willing to learn. I'm still slightly skeptical, will be interested to read how it works out for Kevin. I still picture a drain plug that seals perfectly, but is a bit raspy going in and out.

David,
Chasing the threads should give you a nice smooth fit however since you are concerned, use an old toolmakers trick to get them real smooth. Put some lapping compound on the threads and run it in and out a few times.

Pete's right takes less than 1/2 turn to clean up NPT theads.Assembling engine now and always chase every thread before assembling.Only place I use,any sealer is dissimilar metals never brass to brass

8122pbrainard wrote: 63 Skier wrote: If the threads have been crossed the tap may have to "cut" out some material, making it a bit of a rough fit David, Check the thread engagement length of a normal 3/4" NPT thread. Do you really feel it's a concern? I don't! How many brass pipe threads have you cut? I've cut plenty through the years. I lost count a long time ago!

You're right Pete, limited experience with brass, have cut and chased lots of steel thread. I'm not sure what you mean though, what does the engagement length have to do with the quality of the threads in that engagement? What I'm saying is if the threads are scored from the cross threading, a tap can't clean that up completely and it may make for a rougher fit than new thread.

8122pbrainard wrote: gun-driver wrote: Do like Joe said run a tapered tap through the port. Certainly a good idea as I confirmed BUT, he didn't nor have I mentioned the need for chasing the threads on the male plug!!! Chase the plug too especially if as I mentioned it's been cross threaded! Find a plumber friend with a 3/4" NPT die!    Even with brand new pipe, I've seen male threads not in the greatest shape.

I did chase the plug when I did mine because I have a pipe threading set but I didn't mention it because I thought he was buying a new plug.

If the threads have been crossed the tap may have to "cut" out some material, making it a bit of a rough fit, but if the tap spins in and out by hand when you're done, the new plug will too.

I'm with Zach, I hate having to bend my arm in there and struggle to get it out so I barely tighten after it's snug.

Do like Joe said run a tapered tap through the port. I did that to my '85 during rebuild worked like a champ.
I remove my plug after trip hand tight is all it should be no tape or anything else on the threads.

The only time my plug is in is when the boat is in the water. Otherwise I want any water that finds its way in to Leave as soon as possible. I never thought about it but this also keeps the plug from seizing.