Cutlass Bearing replacement

I installed the new plastic type cutlass bearing last January. Only 25 hours use so far but with careful alignment there is no drag on this prop. I turn it with one finger and very little muscle involved. I hope it lasts like they claim but I have yet to find a negative.
The set screws seemed to want to distort the plastic/delryn or whatever it is made out of so I drilled and tapped the set screw locations in the cutlass bearing so the set screw now screws into the new cutlass bearing. I used red lock tite to keep it from coming loose. So far so good.

I agree. Hate using those things, pliers and crescent wrenchs
but in this case I don't need to back anything off the back end. Everything can be pulled towards the other end. I made most of the removal with out them but when my arm started getting tired I went ghetto. Fortunately they did the trick for the small project. I'll pick up some more bolts next time at ace and update the parts list. Thanks

8122pbrainard wrote: jhersey29 wrote: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05U2WV2Jn_8 Built this same tool but found the 2 foot was better for the Nautique. Cutting and trying anything else was nearly futile. This was so much easier but does take some strength and patience. Jim, The link you provided is bad. What's the "strength and patience" needed? I've never had a problem with a sawsall (or hack saw) and a length of threaded rod.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05U2WV2Jn_8

The 2nd bearing/bushing is so far up in the strut that getting to it with the hacksaw was ugly. This tool is so cheap and so easy to use and you don't have to bend and pry a bearing that has been stuck in a
strut for 15 years. I tried the hacksaw and couldn't get the bushing to bend up at all even with a hammer and sharp instrument.



Parts:

2 Feet of 1/2" All Thread
1 - 1/2" Nut - Requires 3/4" Wrench
2 - 1/2" Washers - these bend so need the stronger thick one or a bunch of these.
1 - 1/2" Thick Steel Washer
1 - 6" Plumbing Pipe with inner dimension slightly later than 1 1/4" I believe this one measures 1.38" ID.
1 - 1/2" Nut
1 - 1/2" Lock Washer
6 - 1/2" Flat Washers stacked. The washers measure 1.245" with a 1/2" hole. I sanded them down to about 1.210" with a belt sander.
1 - 1/2" Lock Washer
1 - 1/2" Nut
1 - Vice Grips. The vice grips where clamped onto the all thread and set against the trailer to prevent the all thread from spinning.

Built this same tool but found the 2 foot was better for the Nautique. Cutting and trying anything else was nearly futile. This was so much easier but does take some strength and patience.

You Tube Video

Kerry,
My experience with cutlass bearings is there isn't very much wall thickness on the outer shell to press on even with a close tolerance pressing bushing made to fit the strut bore. If you notice in the video, it shows a rather large cutlass and not our typical 1" by 1&1/4" exclusive of the rubber. The Strutpro will work for a couple jobs but then the bushing will mushroom. My suggestion would be to cut the old shaft out and replace it with an ARE system. You will be dollars ahead plus it will make future service easy.

I know many have had good luck with the plastic bushings. I have not and prefer sticking with the good old brass and rubber.

Kerry,
You've been spending too much time on the Skidim site! Yes, as mentioned the "Strutpro" is a gimmick!

I have a question about Cutlass bearing replacement. Has anyone ever used the Vesconite bearings instead of the traditional Brass and polymer rubber? How was it compared to the brass one to press in/out? Manufacturer of the vesconite claims about 10x the life expectancy over the brass and rubber. I would love to have some opinions and more info. I think there are a lot of very knowledgeable folks on this site. Any info would be greatly appreciated. also has anyone ever used the strutpro device to press these bearings out/in without taking the shaft out? Seems like a pretty cool device (albeit a little expensive $400.00)that could save a lot of R&R time. Thanks Kerry