ProTec Ignition Swap

rosconole wrote: 40 degrees of timing ??? are you trying to sell an engine as well?? A GT 40 perhaps .

I'd check the total advance at about 3500 RPM before doing anything, so you know what you have.

1993R wrote: I Only issue is motor and starter are turning but no fire to plug wires

Where are you checking power to the distributor? At the (+) terminal on the cap

wkebrdr wrote: I searched around, but what spark plugs are you using since going to the DUI?

desertskier wrote: I did give that some thought. What I considered is that during 1600 hours of operation my boat has never overheated or gone into limp mode (except when the old wiring had too much IR drop - long time ago). Although the scenarios you mention and others are possible I believe the risk is extremely low. It would be nice to have the limp mode feature still but without it I would rather save the motor. My boat doesn't have the dash alarm/lights but for those that do it would be easy to replace relay #2 with a timer relay. You could set it to a few minutes so your alarm went off before it killed the engine. I was also curious what the DUI does when the input voltage drops but I didn't experiment with that yet. It may start running crappy at some point which would give the driver a heads up. So all you would need is a voltage divider on the output of relay #2 that connects to the DUI wire. According to skidim the switch closes at 210. For some reason I thought I had read somewhere it was higher than that. If it turns out to be a problem it's easy to disconnect unless of course I had a heart attack and crashed then it would be harder.

Good to know you gave it some thought

I've seen the switch listed in PCM literature as both 210 degrees and 200 degrees depending on where you look. It's the same part number for a ProTec engine and a GT40 engine.

If I wanted some kind of protection/warning from the oil pressure and/or water temperature switches, I'd probably wire both to relays that fed a loud, obnoxious horn to let the driver know there's a problem and he/she could turn the engine off or keep running it depending on the situation.

That way O-76 or whoever's driving wouldn't have to find the right relay and yank it and Pete wouldn't have to pull out his wire cutters and snip the right wire in the middle of a "not so good" situation.

I suppose in the end, it's whatever you're comfortable with

I did give that some thought. What I considered is that during 1600 hours of operation my boat has never overheated or gone into limp mode (except when the old wiring had too much IR drop - long time ago). Although the scenarios you mention and others are possible I believe the risk is extremely low. It would be nice to have the limp mode feature still but without it I would rather save the motor.

My boat doesn't have the dash alarm/lights but for those that do it would be easy to replace relay #2 with a timer relay. You could set it to a few minutes so your alarm went off before it killed the engine.

I was also curious what the DUI does when the input voltage drops but I didn't experiment with that yet. It may start running crappy at some point which would give the driver a heads up. So all you would need is a voltage divider on the output of relay #2 that connects to the DUI wire.

According to skidim the switch closes at 210. For some reason I thought I had read somewhere it was higher than that. If it turns out to be a problem it's easy to disconnect unless of course I had a heart attack and crashed then it would be harder.

Well Ken, while you’re clutching your chest dying just pop open the dog box and jump the relay! Did I miss where it shuts off at 200? That’s a lil low, I’d step it up to at least 230.

Nice, clean installation. I like the dedicated relay for the DUI dizzy.

Thank you JPASS - My DUI is installed and the boat runs!   I have a 94 that came with the Protec Injection as well,   This set of installation instructions works for TBI boats as well, as long as you are replacing the TBI with a carb.    The TBI wiring harness is essentially separate with the exception of the interconnected tach wire and one other yellow wire.   there are some extra sensors to input to the TBI module that will be abandoned in place.   The wiring can all come out though.    You will need to remove the 15A circuit breaker on the back of the engine ( leave the 60 and the 12.5) and you can reinstall the 2 remaining breakers on the bracket that the was originally mounted too.   the FI module bracket is no longer needed and should be removed for accessibility. While you are working through the wiring harness, the original (Non TBI) wiring harness already includes wiring for the electric choke on the Holley Carb, all you need to do is un-tape the wires from the harness (they're covered up) and plug them in.

Lesson learned:   Nicely routed plug wires are great, but err on the side of making the wires too long...   they looked fantastic until I timed the engine, and I wound up with a couple of wires that were tight...

90s on both ends

Last weekend, I set the timing with a lamp and made a test drive.
The result is amazing. It starts on the button and accelerates better than ever. Especially above 4000 rpm. It feels it gains an extra 40 hp at high rpm. I should have done this much earlier. JP, again many thanks for your instructions. This made the swap real easy.

Verify timing order. The rotor rotates counter clockwise.