Shaft Coupling Removal Issue

MrMcD wrote: You can also put spacers between the bunks and your trailer in the rear. It is only 2 bolts on each side. I say that because of the number of times I drag the trailer guard on driveways.

That option is not viable on a traditional correct craft/ramlin wishbone trailer.

Thanks Pete, I bought a new cotter pin and going to install it the right way. Appreciate it

Hey I have a few of those $2.95 Harbor Freight tape measures too!

Thanks for the info HW! No, Acme does not mention the position of the counter pin.

Thanks guys.....

I was just snapping some pics to give you guys an idea of where the prop was positioned.

The boat normaly sits even with edge of the bunks. I do need to push the boat 2" forward to make it flush.

I was thinking a plate of some sort to give it more even surface space then just washers. I know, overkill.

Now you got me thinking about the counter pin, how did I install it wrong? Been trying to find pictures to compare. I did have to back off the nutts to allign the counter pin with the hole. Is that ok?

Thanks again!

You did the cotter pin wrong.

The prop-hull clearance picture doesn't make any sense, you're not measuring the largest diameter which is at the blade tip (where it also hits the trailer).

I have an 88 trailer and 540 and my clearance is quite minimal. The 84 trailer/prop guard might be naturally closer and/or your boat may be further forward than it should. 3/4" spacer is probably overkill. You'll never have less clearance than you do now so even minimal would be sufficient. I'd be comfortable with as little as 1/4". Can't say I know my clearance off the top of my head.

Well I finally installed the 540 prop today Thanks to Pete's "proper prop installation" and Eric's "alignment" forum topics

Of course I did come up with an issue After installing the new prop, I notice the prop is now touching the trailer. I took off the new prop and installed the old and it clears the trailer little more than a 1/4". Sooooo after some thinking, could I lower the rear of the trailer support to get atiquite clearance? Was thinking 3/4" stainless steel plates under the rail where the rear support bolts up. Any concerns??

Thanks everyone
Kostas N
84SN2001

Running and spinning a New 540!!!!!!   Yeah Buddy!!!!

It's always nice when the wife helps with your shaft.

I was so pissed off at the hassle it was to remove the coupling and then having read beforehand this business of heating/cooling things that I opted for one of these:
split coupling
Took the shaft and coupling to a machine shop and they trued them together and also declared the shaft straight on arrival.

I also went for one of these to avoid any hassles with shaft packing:
shaft log

baitkiller wrote: Need one of Petes fancy measuring tool thingies.

Agree! We need Pete to start posting again

I would be willing to bet that your shaft has been replaced before, and its a few thousands off from the factory one..After some heat and ice or freezer time u shouldnt be struggling with it like you have been. Its and interference fit so after expanding the new collar with heat and somewhat shrinking the shaft with freezer and still no go... than the diameters are deff too far apart imop.

I'd break out the Weber grill,but there isn't going to be a next time for me,I'd get an A.R.E. set up. But at least you would be right next to the boat,no need to run thru the house heading toward the boat and cooling the coupler as you go

Having the Shaft and Coupling clean and burr free is very important.
The clearance on this interference fit is smaller than zero. Anything that sticks up will bugger up your install. Take really fine emery cloth and make sure the finish is smooth on the shaft and the coupler inside surface. Do not sand it or you will reduce your interference fit.
Just smooth any rough spots or high spots.
Your picture shows damage or gauling on the shaft and coupler.
You will need to smooth that back out. On install it needs to be one smooth move. Once the hot coupler touches heat transfers quickly and the shaft will grow locking you in place. You have to be faster than the heat transfer. Should be 1-5 second install.
Make sure the key is fitted both to the shaft and the coupler, if the key is tight you will not win. The key cant be tight or sloppy.
The one hour in the oven might work but I would use a gas stove top or even a coleman stove to heat the coupler, set it on direct flame, it will heat in 4 or 5 minutes, Best of luck.

Well the 3rd attemp was no good I believe its not getting hot enough, electric oven at 550 degrees. Unfortunately I do not have a freezer larger enough for the drive shaft.

John, I remeber you telling me that at Tims. My buddy has a deep frier cooker that I will give it a final try.

I just want to be able to look back and see my new 540 prop on

Below are some pictures of the drive shaft and the new coupler. Only was able to get it about a 1/4".

Thanks for your input, appreciate it.