GT40 stops after letting go of button

Ok, cool.

So, it was a breaker in this unit, right? I just want to get my facts straight, I'll post this fix to the GT-40 thread:

Awesome!!!! Glad you found it. Did you put a new breaker in?   Mine is currently at the machine shop and I am slowly working my way through rust removal on parts using Electrolysis. Fun stuff. Hope I remember how it goes back together in a few months.

Bait killer, yes Jesus is "The barefooter" but even with Perfect pass I need that hand to drive😉

Lewy2001, built my jumper cables last night, cleaned my flame arrester, got my multi tester all ready to go to the lake.

Yes if 12V is not present on the activation terminal 85 the relay will not engage and the engine will not start. In a standard ignition key this happens with ignition in the on position before you turn to crank the engine on the starter.


I have a set of 4 jumpers with a male and female on ends about 4"-6" long.

Brian from the described symptoms it may be a problem with the keypad and or PME Gateway box. I do not have the circuit diagram of a GT40 with this configuration. But as they still have the same EEC and fuel pump relay I assume that operation after the keypad and PME box is mostly the same as the standard ignition key GT40.

The keypad is trigger mechanism to the PME Gateway to distribute power. Most of the electronics are inside this box. It distributes the power to the engine and throughout the boat.

Test for voltage at EEC relay you should even be able to feel the relay click in and out with a finger. The 12V output from the EEC relay goes to the coil, TFI ignition module and ECM. It sounds like you are losing the activation power for the EEC relay so check terminal 85 on the relay for 12V. You will need to make up 4 short jumper wires for the relay to make testing easier with voltmeter.

Hey, I appreciate the thought and am going to take the time to disconnect it just becuase.... I thought that switch basically told the computer if it was above 5psi and when it went below that with the boat running it would put it into limp mode. Does it do more than that?

Saturday... I have used the boat at least 5 different times since I replaced the oil pressure switch.

Hmmm... I replaced my oil pressure switch about a month ago. I can disconnect that and still have the analog and see if it is the problem. Thanks

I had replaced it becuase the old one failed and it would put me into limp mode.

So when I am in start mode (the port side led is green on the keypad) vs. actually pushing the start button while in start mode I should have power to the coil?

Ordered it... free shipping:)

All though I am not too confident that it will fix this problem it will sure avoid another. I would think if continuing to push the starter button and the engine actually settling down into idle and even the PerfectPass beeping saying it is ready my guess is I am going to find the problem either in poor connection somewhere actually off the engine.

Whoever worked on the boat last did kind of a messy job around the relays but it is obvious that there was some work done. I know for one thing I am going to get to know this engine and other than messing with my skiing I enjoy working on engines/boats.

Gotcha, will try tube first and put distributor cover on the list.

Thanks jhersy29, will do... What is an mtb tube?

I don't have a cover over the plug wires... I will have to get one, those have to be generic. I will put on the list, thanks!

In a nutshell, compare running to non-running. You shouldn't have to recreate the wheel for running, I would think the manuals available should hint at probable component failure.