Pylon/cup slop, suggestions?

I would certainly check for a roll pin in the cup before trying to remove the pylon.
Mine has both the flange and the roll-pin.

Oh, well gray gel is what I have at the cup. I guess all cups were added afterwards.

I'm surprised a healthy floor would allow you to notice the slop. I don't recall that fit being especially tight in the ones I've had out- the ones rusted in place notwithstanding!

The above suggestions sound good. I'd be looking to make sure the sandwich at the floor was solid- backer in place, good tight bolts, no slop. A cradle is a nice improvement but the sandwich at the floor 76-79 is much better than the previous beauty ring and can be plenty solid... If your floor isn't flexy (mushy). A compromised floor can do some scary things in this area (like pull the pylon out of the cup completely- been there, done that).

There are no additional pins/bolts at the cup for the flanged pylons... The beauty pylons an cradle pylons need that pin to keep the pylon from rotating, non issue with 4 through bolts.

The slop is just enough where I can see it in the cup when I look up underneath, into the bilge while someone moves the pylon. I'm confident in the floor and crossmember but would like to stighten it up bc i imagine overtime the crossmember will get beaten up as a result.i do have the 4 bolt flange type. It's been removed before bc some ding dong lost the original bolts. The horizontal bolt underneath has me confused bc I don't see it. Is it where I'm not looking or do I not have one?

Pete I agree, horrible design. On dad's '75, if and when I attempt the stringers I want cradle set up, seems so much more logical.

My glass skills are so limited but I'm learning and playing around. Never used release agent before bc never needed. I know what it's supposed to do. Can someone enlighten me with a suggestion/tips for a release agent.

Todd,
When I bought my 77, the cup and pin were loose due to corrosion as well. This is due to the fantastic engineering of CC putting the cup on the bottom trapping water plus using carbon steel. I thought about inverting the connection but didn't have time. I applied mold release to the pin and then inserted it into the cup filled with thickened epoxy. After the epoxy kicked, I pulled the pylon and just for extra protection applied anti-seize. So far it's worked great.

Since the cup had corroded/worn in an egg shape, I didn't make a bushing to cure the slop.

Ever since I bought my '76 I've had minor slop in the pylon due to Corrosion on the pin and it's no longer tight in the cup. A suggestion I've received and given thought to is to pull the pylon, fill the cup with epoxy and stick the pylon back in along with a barrier of something like Saran Wrap to keep the pylon from bonding to the epoxy for future removal. Any thoughts? Is there something more "proper" than Saran Wrap? Im afraid it's not strong enough.