strut leaks

So im going to use the 5200 to rebed the strut now. What should I do? Put it on the strut all around? A bead of it around the outside? Some on the hull? Put some in the bolt holes from inside the boat?

Gary S wrote: For your convenience here is the original post - [QUOTE=camron18] well i noticed a lot of play in the cutless bearings, so i removed the shaft and strut and got the old ones ones out. QUOTE]

Well Gary, Cameron wouldn't have been able to remove the shaft completely without removing the coupling which is confusing. The only other option would be to remove the shaft forward but then the engine needs to be pulled. Maybe Cameron can solve the mystery?

The reason I asked about the shaft, is you know it doesn't need to be removed for removing the strut.

As mentioned, no heat but you will need the special removal nut.

Why are you removing the shaft from the coupling????

No heat needed for a double taper.

ARE double taper shaft instructions

If he has a lot of cutlass bearing wear it is possible the shaft has a bend in it, or maybe just lots of hours on this boat?

I replaced the factory cutlass bearing with the plastic/Delryn type. It has very little drag, fit perfectly and they claim it will last much longer. I have no idea about the lifespan, at 25 hours use it is still very good, I am curious if any here have high hours on this type cutlass bearing.

When I took mine apart last year for the same job I listened to the great advice of the experienced guys on this forum. The job turned out perfect and the prop now rotates with one finger sitting dry on the trailer. It used to take a strong hand to turn. Take your time, do it right and you will be very happy with the results.
As far as the chipped paint, you may have chipped the gel coat, most fiberglass boats don't have paint. I think the 5200 would seal right over a chip. It dries very hard and permanent. I used it for the great seal and holding power and I pray I never have to remove it. Do your test fitting. Make sure you read everything about proper shaft alignment and it will come out great.

While at it is good to refresh on proper seating of the prop to the prop shaft.

camron18 wrote: well i noticed a lot of play in the cutless bearings,

Is the wear even? If not, then I'd say you do have an alignment problem. Remember, alignment starts at the strut.

well i noticed a lot of play in the cutless bearings, so i removed the shaft and strut and got the old ones ones out. I am having a hard time finding new ones.
the old bearings are 1in x 1-1/4in by 2 in long. does anyone know where i can find some this size?

camron18 wrote: hopefully it will still be aligned when im done? or will it need to be redone? thanks

Cameron,
You've got the idea but, if it's not aligned when you have it all bolted up, then yes it would need to be partially done again. The nice thing about both 5200 and 4200 is the long cure time. That gives you a chance to loosen and try again. Dry fit and see what happens.

Cameron,
You may find that the holes in the hull have been slightly elongated. This is common even at the factory to make minor port to starboard adjustments. As Chris mentioned, tightening the bolts may shift the strut. The other adjustment for up and down would be shims between the strut and hull. It too is a common method even from the factory. For bedding compound, I have a hunch that Hydrodyne used silicone. DO NOT use the damn stuff!!!

After re bedding the strut, make sure you do an engine alignment.

it is a 1994 hydrodyne grand sport with a pcm 351
if my strut and drive shaft and everything are good and aligned now, will it be difficult to get the strut back aligned once i pull it off and put it back on? or would tightening up the bolts evenly get it aliened again?

thanks for the help!

Cameron,
Welcome to CCfan.
How about telling us more about the boat and pictures are always welcome. If it's a CC, submit an entry to the diary section.

The sealer goes outside between the strut and hull as well as in the bolt holes. 5200 is best for adhesion and 4200 is good but not as strong. The nice thing about the 4200 is it's easier to remove. When you loosen the strut, do keep in mind alignment. I'll link the alignment thread for you to watch.

i have noticed water coming in my boat from around the strut back plate. i have seen people say to use m3 5200 and people say to never use it. What do you suggest? also would i put the sealer inside on the back plate or outside the boat between the strut and the hull?

anything helps