Sure Lube bearing

shots aka tubes like Paul said.

TRBenj wrote: Don't worry Alan, brake lines and coupler were a mix of dry and clogged... The grease in the assemblies just ensured the whole brake system was bypassed, ha. Everything's been replaced now, came up just short of functional before GL (just need to bleed them).

Didn't Zach say he put a "couple shots of grease in them"? LOL

TRBenj wrote: New-to-me trailer. Brakes were well lubricated.

Good Lord, is that the barefoot trailer I dragged 1000 miles?        I guess what you don't know can't hurt you.

Were you trying to find out how many tubes of grease a drum will hold
Good news is I dont think there's any room for water to get in

That's not a leaky seal, Paul... THIS is a leaky seal

I was gonna do new bearing kits whilst recently refurbing mine, but but after having just re-done bunks, carpet, and some wiring , was glad to leave that part to the pros. Turns out replacing my old rusty stuff with new complete hub assemblies was only $37 per side plus $75 labor..

None of this stuff is terribly expensive, like Pete suggests, maybe just take it in.

I'm sure I could handle it if I saw it or had someone help me with one. After all, I do come from a long line of engineers 😏 I watched a Youtube video of a guy doing some basic trailer breaks and I think I see what your saying now. I also did get the below instruction from the company that manufactures sure lube bearings. One thing I noticed is that my bearing show the grease fitting accessible with what looks like a rubber cap around it. The ones on the instruction show a rubber dust cap over the grease fitting as well. I'm wondering if I was supposed to remove that outer piece before adding grease? Might have done that wrong and forced it out the inside seal?

http://www.tiedown.com/pdf/c718.pdf

Here is the video I found on a basic trailer. He uses something similar (PVC) to hammer out the inside bearings as described.

SNobsessed wrote: To remove inner bearing & seal - Support the hub up on some blocks so the seal can drop out.   Use a pc of dowel rod, or similar wood stick, around 3/4 inch cross section. Using the stick & a hammer, lightly tap on the inner bearing , evenly at 120 deg spacings. The seal bearing should drop out. After cleaning & repacking the bearing, put it in & tap in the seal using wood block that spans across it. A seal driver is better, maybe use some pvc pipe to make one. You need to push on the rim of the seal only. The hard part is getting it started square, once you have that then just tap it in flush to hub. Pack grease inside the seal lip before putting hub back on spindle.. Adjust bearing for light preload & then back off to nearest castle slot.

Chris, I have never done this before, so what you just said sounds like Russian to me, especially your last sentence, LOL.

So, does the wheel need to come off to do this and then the outer part of the bearing in order to push out the inner bearing and seal with the rod?

How to you adjust the bearing for light pre-load?.

...is the inner bearing and seal one piece that I will need to replace?

Try YouTube? Trailer hubs are pretty simple.

Is the sure lube similar to dexters ez lube?

If the seal is leaky, it'll make a real mess of your brake assemblies. I'd take them apart and inspect. Buy new seals and bearings ahead of time just in case- plan on repack jb and new seals at a minimum.

My Prestige trailer has Sure Lube bearings on it. I had some work done on the trailer the spring and asked my mechanic to check the bearings too, which he said were fine. He said they lubed them for me so I was surprised when I went to add some grease this weekend and got no old grease out of the front after quite a few pumps of my gun. I called my mechanic back and he said it could be coming out the back and that he would just add a few pumps occasionally and I should be fine. I'm assuming that means the rear seal is bad? Maybe he is thinking the cost of rebuilding vs leave it alone until the bearings need to be replaced?