Rough idle/smoke but good top end

So “remove starter for diagnosis” you should read as labor required to remove the starter so they could look at the front of the transmission and diagnose the leak. Not how I would get a look at a front shaft seal but probably the easiest way if they had a camera to shove in there. So I am going to say that is what you asked them to do.

That being said The rest of the quote looks ok to me in terms of hours required to change the front seal on a transmission except for the 1.5 hours to rr the shaft and rr the prop. Did you ask them to do that? Are you getting a new prop or shaft?   I wouldn’t remove either for that job without a good reason, if I was going to remove either I would likely replace the strut bearing but I don’t see that quoted.

Overall It’s a cheap and easy fix, but it takes time if you value your time more than their then you have to pay them for their time. If not find 8 hours and save yourself 8 or 9 hundred dollars.   Or put new fluid in it every few days...

Don't be so touchy. I just want to make sure this is an accurate quote. I have no issue with the dealer or paying for service. That IS why I went there.

Also, $140 for the starter diagnosis is something I didn't request. But still not complaining if they feel it's correct.

yeah well they are a business, don't think you'll get support here in your favor

job title "diagnose leak- reddish fluid near drain plug"

looks like they did what they were supposed to do...

JoeinNY wrote: Seems likely it's got one or more injectors dripping at idle making it rich - don't do the dealers work for them though - things like the fuel pressure regulator are definitively checked with relatively simple tests using gages they should definitely have.

Exactly! It's at the dealer. They'll get her back to spec! It's what they do

Seems likely it's got one or more injectors dripping at idle making it rich - don't do the dealers work for them though - things like the fuel pressure regulator are definitively checked with relatively simple tests using gages they should definitely have.

Addressing the rough/variable idle I have found some topics on other forums that seem to address this issue. I've found three possible causes:
1) Throttle Position Sensor
2) Perfect Pass not set correctly
3) Fuel Pressure Regulator is bad or needs to be "squeezed" some to increase pressure.

Are these possible causes legit for what I am experiencing on my 1995 GT40? I only have 410 hours. The Fuel Pressure regulator fix seems to be for much higher time engines.

My boat is at the dealer. I would like to have some possible suggestions if necessary. Am I on the right track?

Wish Eric was still around. Being a PCM trans I wonder if they work differently than a Borg Warner meaning if there is pressure or not behind that seal? If it was mine since it's a DD,I'd find where it is leaking,pull it and put in a seal and see what happens. But since you have to pay you don't have that option. Good luck.

8122pbrainard wrote: $750.00 for a rebuild the last time I remember. That doesn't include the R&R. It' also doesn't include a new damper plate. 410 is low on the hours. Run it, put a diaper in the bilge and keep an eye on the trans level. You don't want to say anything about the the other issue?

Yes, I was originally more concerned with the rough idle/smoke issue. Now this leak has taken over and has me thinking I may have purchased a boat with issues. I've put more into it already than I planned. If it is something major, I will be crushed.

8122pbrainard wrote: Steve, Didn't you ask the same question about someone to work on your boat in this post? At least we now know what work you want done! Take a good look at the trans. Input will be hidden but the oil will come out the bell housing. Output shaft is obvious. Then there's the hoses to the cooler. I suspect it's coming from the input shaft. How many hours are on the trans?

I posted the question in that thread too because I was asked what type of work I wanted. I thought I should keep the two issues separate. I'm looking for a mechanic that is trusted AND I am concerned about an issue.

Any approximation as to how much a leak from the input shaft will be to repair? We paid a little more for this boat because of the obvious care it was given. I drove the boat and had a mechanic look at it before purchase. I doubt that this just happen to come up after owning the boat for a month and running it three times.

The total time on the boat is 410 hours. I don't believe the transmission has even been overhauled.

Unfortunately, I'm no mechanic. I wish this was something I could diagnose and fix myself but I can't. So I will rely on a pro.

Any recommended GT40 repair shops in Houston other than going to Conroe to the dealer? I'm on the far west side of Houston. I'll go to Conroe if that is the best place to be.

Can't speak for the other issues but a dixie cup or more of transmission fluid is not good. Suggest for starters, at the very least, you add fluid to the proper mark and check level frequently next time out to see how quickly it is leaking and from where.