351w oil pan

Hey Gary - DaveR over on FTC had a set of SS Hi-Tec's for a 351W a few weeks ago up for sale along with some other parts. I don't if he still has them or not?   

One thing that I'm seeing that is different between the Fish Nautique and the Shamrock is the bonding system. The Fish I'm working on doesn't have one at all; whereas, all of the Shamrocks I've seen have the engine, transmission, tabs, and rudder bonded/wired together going into a star connection at the raw water strainer. Maybe the previous owner removed it - but I don't see any part of bonding system remaining.

Copacetic23: The oil pick up tube was not bent, but it may need to be modified by trimming the skirt around the screen. Skirt shape is important to prevent a vortex in the pan - so the least the better. The Mercruiser oil pan has a baffle that requires the center section (about 2 1/2") to be removed when used with the PCM oil pick up tube. The Ford engine builders that I was able to reference recommend 1/4" to 3/8" (preferred) clearance between the oil pick up tube and the bottom on the oil pan for standard volume oil pumps on the small block engines.

Regarding Gary's comment on the life span of a used T-Stat housing in salt water - who knows? On our Shamrock boat with a GM engine which is kept in the Gulf - we are replacing risers and manifolds at the end of each 3rd season and considering the engine pretty much disposable at the end of the 5th or 6th season with about 800 -1000 hours on them. On the CC-Fish I am working on now we are going to use aluminum anodes rather than zinc to see if there is any improvement in corrosion. I figure when the hex bolts for the cylinder heads lose their shape due to rust the rest of the engine can't be much better. When fishing off-shore I tend to be conservative and prefer planned maintenance rather that forced - it's expensive, dangerous, and not much fun, especially when the fish are biting. I'll keep my eyes open for a oil pan and will let you know if see one. Best of luck!

Brazing was the worst thing you could have tried but you know that by now. Don't know how it looks at this time but you could have drilled out the rivets made a new gasket and either re-riveted or used bolts with the nuts on the outside of the pan. The things you need are out there,you just can't run out and buy it off the shelf like you used to. I don't agree with Steve on how long things last in the salt,I personally know a raw water cooled PCM 302 that went for 20 years on its original thermostat parts but it was flushed after each use and that is the key. I know someone with a 351 pan that was used in fresh water,don't know what conversion it's off of,I would guess PCM. Do you want me to check with him and see if it's available?

What's causing the leak at the dip stick on the pan?

The parts you are looking for can usually be found on ebay, but you may have to be diligent and patient in looking. There are a couple of oil pans on ebay right now - search "marine oil pans" listed under part number 72566 - both are < $100 - they are non pcm pans - condition is everything - shop carefully. Get the oil pump pickup tube and dipstick if possible that go with the pan you choose. The number for a Mercruiser 351W oil pan is #59529 - it is cast aluminum - obsolete, but usually available as NOS from Mercury dealers that have been around awhile. The Mercruiser oil pan will require a baffle modification to fit the PCM oil pick-up, but the sump is in the right place.. I put one of these on my Fish since it will be a salt water boat. .Discount Inboard Marine has new steel 351W oil pans listed as part # 1708. Be prepared for sticker shock when you see the price.   

These 351W based engines are approaching obsolescence. Iron intakes, T-stat housings, and oil pans are getting difficult to source as the engine has been out of production for over 15 years. If I had it to do over I would put a newer Chevrolet based engine in mine. I just bought a used PCM T-Stat housing for a 351W in excellent condition. Keeping it as a spare because the salt water will destroy the one I have in 4 to 5 years. Plan to pay between $150 to 250 for a good T-stat housing when you find one.

Good luck. The search for the parts is half the fun. Where in NC are you located? .I am in Brevard in Western NC.