Stringer Lag Bolt

I would think the dowel would have a tendency to split if not supported.

Drilling and tapping the glass is pretty easy if you decide to pour-in a replacement for the stringer.

Mine was too far gone to support a dowel. I guess I could have dug out the rot, cut a 6" long board to fit back in (rather than the whole stringer...what a bonehead I was...I even had to pull the engine...so I rebuilt it...and so the story goes) put a little epoxy in the whole to let the new board bond and then pilot hole the board.

Probably a two hour job. My other way was about 4 months...my wife is still telling everyone about it

I had this problem....replaced the stringer, then welded an aluminum frame from under the front seat to behind the tranny.

A very knowledgeable CC mechanic told me I overkilled the problem. The wood just holds the lag bolts while the fiberglass is the structural support. He said to do as kenney g suggested or dig out the old rot and pour a glass bed about 6" long and re-tap.

Thanks kenny g. Sounds like great advice. I assume I will need to re-drill the hole after drying?

I noticed the left rear tranny-mount lag bolt into my stringer won't tighten up. All seven of the other lag bolts tighten up just fine. What's the next step? Should I buy a longer lag bolt and run it in deeper? (there's about another 2" to the bottom of the hull) Is Git-Rot good for this kind of problem? I'm not even sure if I have rot ...or if some previous owner over-tightened it and stripped it.