Propeller shaft coupler

Pete, I don't recommend leaving any marks.
If you pull your crankshaft out of your engine and take it in for a re grind or polish guess what they do first before proceeding? They tap it with a ball pen to see if it is good or bad as far a cracks go.   For some reason if there is a crack it dulls the tap sound, if the metal is good with no cracks the steel will have a ring to it when you tap it.

MrMcD wrote: Before installing a shaft, tap it with a ball pen hammer, if it rings true there are no cracks. If you tap it and it has a dull thud noise your shaft is cracked and should not be installed.

Mark,
I'm going to disagree with this method. First, I highly doubt anyone could tell if there was a microscopic fracture from sound. Second, if the crack is large enough to detect by sound, I'd say the crack would also be visual. We aren't talking about a chunk of cast iron!! I would not advise anyone to try this method.

BTW, what would you do with all the "beauty marks" from pounding on a shaft with a ball peen?

I've always had second thoughts about shaft straightening especially if the bend is just aft of the strut say from a prop strike. Metal can only be bent so much before it breaks. Here's what I'm always afraid of.

Reids shaft

8122pbrainard wrote: Too much HP for the old 1"? !! , maybe the boat hit somthing at one time and the shaft had been straightened. It doesn't take much to put stress in a shaft where the fracture starts. .

Over the years I have known Machine Shops that could straighten shafts, Some promised to be less than .001 true which is very good.   Usually they figure out it takes more time than they originally thought which takes the price up near the cost of a new shaft and they decide not to do it any longer. I would think Labor in cape code is very high like California.
I do think a good straighten is a 100% fix if you can find the shop that will do it.   Keep us posted on your results.

Justin,
I agree with Paul's #1 option. Cut it!!

I removed the 4 bolts that hold the coupler onto the back of the drive but I cant free the coupler from my drive. Its a single taper shaft thats bent and im replacing it with a double taper shaft. Any suggestions how to make it simpler and keep me from buying 12 more costly tools?