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1995 GT-40 Fuel Pump/FCC conversion

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    Posted: July-11-2022 at 11:33am
Paul, Gun Driver did.  He is still very active on this forum.

Took a look at the pump you listed Gary, that looks like it may be a nice solution.   Never heard of the company but for $100 it may last several years.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CA Jaybob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2022 at 10:42am
I never saw or heard about this pump in 2018, which is when this all started for me. I think that this is going to be the best option for me. Has anyone here know of someone who has installed this pump?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2022 at 7:22am
Wonder if you got the replacement for the original pump if that would solve your problem- http://www.highflowfuel.com/qfs-oem-replacement-marine-outboard-electric-fuel-pump-for-pcm-350-5-6l-1984-2021-replaces-52365517/
I bought one for the stash just in case.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2022 at 2:21am
Wow, you guys got me thinking, I went back and re read this thread, it looks like everything was discussed to death 5-6 years ago, some did the conversion to FCC some went with a Carter replacement that only offered one inlet.   It was determined that the return line from the Pressure regulator to the High Pressure pump was probably there to lubricate the HPP on initial start ups.  The line should not be eliminated.  A High Pressure pump must have fuel at all times or they burn up quickly, burn up is a term not a fact, if they run dry, no fuel for even 20 seconds it causes the pump to fail.  The motor after a dry start will first run loudly and then lock up and fail.  The bushings go out right away.  They are fuel lubricated.  Funny part was I was involved in many of the conversations and did not remember.   I think the bottom line discovered back then was a replacement pump works fine but keep the extra return line connected, you will have to add a T or Y fitting to make that happen.  Your connection must be a good and safe one because the return line is exposed to 40 PSI.    When we started this discussion the Carter pump was available for $60 2 years later the same pump was $110, that was 2018, no idea what they cost today.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlfaDon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2022 at 2:06am
Why keep a flawed system when the FCC was made to correct the problem?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CA Jaybob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2022 at 1:49am
I never had a hot start issue before, ever with the stock set up.  The problem started after the original fuel pump started leaking and I needed to replace it. I spent the $80 on the the new HPP with only one high pressure port and eliminated the cross over. It was 108 to 110 degrees this last weekend and we had more problems than ever before. 

I am getting ready to pass this boat down to my daughter and her husband, so I want to get this worked out

Jay F
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2022 at 1:38am
My 95 is an early 95 so it has the LPP and HPP and does not use an FCC.  Not one time ever has it heated the fuel and caused any fuel vapor lock so the PCM system will work with the by pass line from the fuel pressure regulator line to the High Pressure pump and you can replace the HPP in the 95 for less than $100 and they are readily available.  Why switch to an FCC for $700 and then add a return line to the tank?   In my world if you can make it function like new, don't reinvent it, just fix it.  Since the aftermarket pumps only offer 1 inlet and 1 outlet he would need to add a T before the High Pressure pump that could handle 40 PSI for the return fuel from the pressure regulator.  The factory used Stainless Braid wrapped fuel lines with bolted connections on this return line so I would copy what they did.  As I recall when this all was first discussed back in 2016 we had no idea why they ran that return line to the HPP but now it seems necessary to avoid vapor lock issues.   Several companies would make a pump that would work for this application,  Carter, Airtex, Denso, Bosch, Walbro all sell a pump that could be adapted, just choose the one that makes at least 50 PSI and you are good.   If it makes 75 PSI that is fine, your pressure regulator will keep your pressure at the PCM chosen pressure, the pump can make more and be OK but it can't make less pressure.

Mark
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CA Jaybob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2022 at 1:38am
Okay, I think that I do need to put the crossover back is service. Should I just install a tee on the HP side or should  I spend the money on the “FCC?” What “FCC” are you talking about? I have a shop that can make me high pressure fuel lines. 

This problem only happens after the boat has been off for 20 min or more.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlfaDon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2022 at 1:23am
It's too bad that PCM didn't recommend their own part because it works really well. The Fuel Control Cell or FCC contains a bath of fuel for the pump that keeps it cool (along with a return line to the tank). It also helps with pump cavitation or starvation when the boat is getting tossed around. It also comes with the fuel lines that you need, although I'm not positive about the Sport. 

The heat is coming from the engine but the pumps also create a lot of heat. That's part of the reason that modern cars and boats have pumps in the tank.   I think that in order to address your problem you need to include a retun line to the tank somehow or incorporate a fuel cooler.  But after you messed with trying to incorporate a fuel cooler you'd be better off getting the FCC.  When I bought mine a few years ago it was about $800 for the kit with the hoses. The new ones also come with the low pressure pump mounted on the side of the FCC for easy plumbing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2022 at 1:21am
If fuel vaporization is your problem you might put a T in the fuel line just before the FCC or Low pressure pump and tie back into the return line used by PCM up by the fuel rail.  That would allow fuel to circulate and should help.   Automotive systems all send that return fuel back to the fuel tank in a separate run but in the Marine applications they choose not to.   My 95 is set up the same way so the system works to avoid vapor locking.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CA Jaybob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2022 at 12:30am

I believed that you helped me with this conversion. I just posted this about the issue that I am having.

I have a 95 sport nautique and about three years ago my HP fuel pump started leaking from the sealed casing I called PCM and was told that the old carter HP pump was no longer available. They suggested a fix that was expensive, had no instructions and I would have to make up 3 custom fuel lines.

I made contact w someone on this thread that suggested using a carter HP pump that only had 1 inlet and 1 outlet instead of the original pump w 2 outlets, with one connected to the crossover at the rear of the engine. He gave me some instruction, I installed a new carter HP pump and eliminated the crossover. It worked great until the weather got hot and I started having the “hot start” issues. Remembering my old VW square back days and the issues w vapor lock. When this happens, the HP pump is super hot and I always have a cooler in the boat, so I held an ice cube on the pump until it cooled off. The boat would then start perfectly. I use my boat on the Colorado river and only have this issue on days where the temps are 100 and above.

The heat seems to be generated by the heat rising from the engine. After doing some research I realized that the blower fan only circulates air under the engine and has no affect on cooling the engine compartment inside the cover. This problem can sometimes be solved by leaving the engine cover open after shutting down but this is a pain. I attempted to solve the problem by installing a second blower fan with tubing that directs a flow of air directly on the pump, but this only works on cooler days.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this? 

Jay F
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CA Jaybob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2022 at 12:18am
I have a 95 sport nautique and about three years ago my HP fuel pump started leaking from the sealed casing I called PCM and was told that the old carter HP pump was no longer available. They suggested a fix that was expensive, had no instructions and I would have to make up 3 custom fuel lines.

I made contact w someone on this thread that suggested using a carter HP pump that only had 1 inlet and 1 outlet instead of the original pump w 2 outlets, with one connected to the crossover at the rear of the engine. He gave me some instruction, I installed a new carter HP pump and eliminated the crossover. It worked great until the weather got hot and I started having the “hot start” issues. Remembering my old VW square back days and the issues w vapor lock. When this happens, the HP pump is super hot and I always have a cooler in the boat, so I held an ice cube on the pump until it cooled off. The boat would then start perfectly. I use my boat on the Colorado river and only have this issue on days where the temps are 100 and above.

The heat seems to be generated by the heat rising from the engine. After doing some research I realized that the blower fan only circulates air under the engine and has no affect on cooling the engine compartment inside the cover. This problem can sometimes be solved by leaving the engine cover open after shutting down but this is a pain. I attempted to solve the problem by installing a second blower fan with tubing that directs a flow of air directly on the pump, but this only works on cooler days.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this? 

Jay F

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-05-2022 at 1:33pm
Ha Ha Paul. Actually had a big storm roll through at 11ish last night. Power kept going on and off so I shutoff the main breaker since we have had major problems in the past with it crossing phases and disrupting electronics. I had just got up to see if power was back on and flip on the main again. Checked here and went back to sleep. I assure you I then did not get up til 9, by then I miss the good stuff....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-05-2022 at 11:35am
Gary,
Why would you be up and on the computer at 0515 ??? 

Probably scouring the internet for hard to get GT40 parts to hoard away with the rest of your huge stock pile of items. 
Sometimes I just don’t know who’s worse you or those damn Benjamin’s 😂😂
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-05-2022 at 5:14am
GSS350G3 will work as well. Like Alfadon says you need the correct inlet to attach the fuel filter which those others do not have. Walbro will not be able to match PCM's number imprinted on the pump or if they can they will not tell you the specks of it. Been through this with them before. Be careful there are fake Walbro pumps out there ,Google fake Walbro pumps there are ways to identify if they are real or not. Automotive forums say they are interchangeable because they use a different type fuel filter than PCM'S FCC. You need to attach the filter inside the fcc the way pcm designed it unless your willing to chance not using a filter. If your worried don't be cheap get an oem pump from Nautique parts.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlfaDon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-04-2022 at 10:44pm
After some searching it looks like the BX has to do with the Inlet size.  I would call Walbro tomorrow and ask them. BTW WalbroFuelPumps.com is NOT Walbro.  They're a 3rd party reseller. Keep searching for the real one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlfaDon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-04-2022 at 10:38pm
You want the one on the left with the round nose that fits in the bottom of the filter.  I searched Google and summit has a GSS341BX that looks correct but I don't know what the BX references. 
I found this one on Amazon that looks correct assuming the red caps on both end come off

https://www.amazon.com/Walbro-GSS340-Fuel-Pump/dp/B002ERGI7Q/ref=sr_1_7?crid=24BCH1M6F1TIG&keywords=Walbro+GSS341BX&qid=1656988597&s=automotive&sprefix=walbro+gss341bx%2Cautomotive%2C103&sr=1-7
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck-Surfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-04-2022 at 10:05pm
I’ve located a GSS 341 on Amazon up here in Canada.

The only difference btw the 340/341/342 are location and shape of fuel inlet. See pic attached. Far left is the 340. I have not pulled the body off of the FCC yet as I’m still trying to find an oil wrench that will get it loose. I’m not sure how the fuel filter mates up to the pump inside the FCC. Can anyone see any reason why the shape of the inlet of the 341 or 342 would be a problem? Most automotive forums say they are interchangeable as long as the inlet is compatible.

Pic for comparison: Pic of GSS340/341/342 (left to right)
1996 Sport Nautique GT40 EFI
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2022 at 3:47pm
Walbro gss 340 or whatever has superseded it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlfaDon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2022 at 2:06pm
When I was looking for a High volume pump, I couldn't find any off the shelf replacements.  I don't know about Carter.   It seems like Walbro made stock just for PCM with their own part numbers.  I'm pretty sure if you found something that fit you'd be ok. Most of Walbro's stuff is made for 255lph, and you're not needing that much fuel. You might check Summit or Amazon. See if you can find a local speed shop




Originally posted by Canuck-Surfer Canuck-Surfer wrote:

I’ve been looking through all the FCC threads. My high pressure pump failed this morning. Does anybody know what the Carter part number is? My local auto parts store has some Carter pumps. I’d love to get this fixed them back on the lake this evening. And I am referring to the high-pressure pump in the FCC. I have a 1996 GT40 with fcc.

I found some other posts that suggest the Carter fuel pump part number P60962. Comparing pictures they look different.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck-Surfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2022 at 1:59pm
I’ve been looking through all the FCC threads. My high pressure pump failed this morning. Does anybody know what the Carter part number is? My local auto parts store has some Carter pumps. I’d love to get this fixed them back on the lake this evening. And I am referring to the high-pressure pump in the FCC. I have a 1996 GT40 with fcc.

I found some other posts that suggest the Carter fuel pump part number P60962. Comparing pictures they look different.
1996 Sport Nautique GT40 EFI
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlfaDon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-16-2019 at 3:29am
I just picked up the FCC from Nautique parts on the Black Friday sale for $636 plus shipping :-)

Now, which fitting goes where??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bthorsen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-24-2019 at 3:41pm
That's perfect... I just ordered! I'll use both- the 2nd will serve as an actual jamnut on the first.

Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-24-2019 at 3:36pm
Or here's another link to one used as a locknut on adjustable shock absorbers


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-24-2019 at 3:24pm
Look at the link and you'll find a 9/16-24 hex nut that should be just what you need

It's a 3/4 inch hex like your original

2 for 10.49 so you'll have a spare

I don't think I'd trust that compression fitting at all in that application.

I guess you could try a local gun shop too.

link
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bthorsen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-24-2019 at 1:21pm
Over the weekend, I measured the plug (male) threads and determined them to be 24 threads per inch, and either 1/2 or 9/16" diameter. I made some progress on this today... first I went to Fastenal, but they quickly directed me nextdoor to a hose repair/production guy. He confirmed that the threads are 9/16", and 24 th/inch. He found this to be a thread size found on compression fittings. He gave me a compression cap, which I think will work.

I also obtained a drain plug assembly from NAPA, but it is "too short" to work... something longer would. I think this is a better design, and was disappointed that it would not work.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-19-2019 at 7:40pm
Originally posted by bigwavedave bigwavedave wrote:

I have the high-pressure fuel pump Dave 815-953-1823


Wrong pump for an FCC
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-19-2019 at 7:22pm
Originally posted by AlfaDon AlfaDon wrote:

I find it curious that NPT threads would take a locknut. Wouldn’t they be straight threads instead of tapered?

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

For Alpha Don, just Google pipe threaded lock nuts for some info

pipe lock nuts
Don,
They are threaded to the taper max so, they will run all the way up on a tapered pipe thread.


54 Atom


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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-19-2019 at 6:07pm
I think this (in the link) is what you have and the nut in the middle is what you need


Kinda pricey for just the nut or the whole kit, but maybe a call to Ski Dim would get you the nut specs or like I said take the old pieces with you.

Sorry about the confusion but I think this will help

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-19-2019 at 5:56pm
Originally posted by bthorsen bthorsen wrote:

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:


Good luck whatever you decide to do.


ok, thanks again for your help! I think I can find one here around Detroit somewhere for a few bucks!


I got a look at a drain fitting today on a friends boat, but he wouldn't let me take it apart. He's not too adventurous

I think what I described is wrong as far as size.

It looks like the lock nut holds a fitting into the bottom of the FCC and then the pipe plug would screw into the fitting.

I'd take the nut pieces with me.

That should be a straight threaded nut

For Alpha Don, just Google pipe threaded lock nuts for some info

And Ben, However it turns out, post your findings here for the next guy.
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