Growl/Squeal on Decel

2 piece shaft collar

OK. Was able to work on the boat this weekend (and last) and took it for a quick spin. Installed the new strut last weekend. Did the alignment yesterday, and was able to get it well under .002" top to bottom and left to right. Had the machinist neighbor check my work to be sure. The passenger side adjuster was real easy to use while the driver side not so much - it's really a bear to turn.

Took the boat out without the engine cover, back seat, and rear floor. Set the drip. All seemed much smoother, still a very slight growl on a quick decel, but not the scream of before.   

My steering wheel is now about a quarter turn off, which tells me the old prop strut was indeed bent. Lock to lock I have 3.5 turns, and my center is at 1.75. That said I now have to rotate the steering wheel 0.25 turns to the right to go straight.

Regards,
Rich

OK. Got my A.R.E today. Been playing with it, I have a few questions.

A) How are you folks holding the prop shaft to tighten the coupler nut?

B) I don't have enough space for my safety collar. Initially I didn't feel I had enough room to install prior to tightening the coupler nut, but now I see that even with the nut sort of tight, it wouldn't fit in the remaining space.   What should I do?

C) What are you using for wrenches on the rear motor mounts?

Thanks! With a little luck she might hit the water to putt around for a test drive.

That's certainly what I should have done, but I couldn't bring myself to it. Still all a bit leary of this alignment stuff.

Well, I guess I jumped in to the alignment. First I did a shaft check with a dial indicator. I was just out of the limit at .003+" near the strut. The alignment at the engine seemed OK at about .002".

Since this is the second time the cutlass bearing was worn on the same side, I did order a new strut prior. Turns out the old strut was not OEM as it has six holes. After everything has been removed, I now suspect the old strut was installed slightly cocked side to side.

Getting the coupler off was a pain. One of the coupler set screws broke as the job began. So, I had to get out the MIG and weld a nut on several times. It kept breaking. Fortunately, just as I was getting low on threads it held. I'm sure glad I didn't have to drill it out. Several times I thought about cutting the prop shaft. I in fact did ever so lightly heat the coupler. But, I'm anal on preservation of parts.

We should probably add to the instructions to use the longest socket as possible. You lose space and opportunity as you go.   I got to the point I could not remove the socket from between the coupler. However I could move the socket around within the coupler space.   To continue, I was able to insert several small diameter washers into the coupler as the shaft moved rearward.   I taped them together as thick as possible with scotch tape. This did the trick. By the way, I don't know about other boats but I was running out of space between the coupler. I cut the log hose hoping I would get more, but that didn't help at all.

A slightly smaller socket diameter would have been better in my case as well. This is because one also needs to consider the woodruff key. My socket bound up a little on the key (I addressed this with the small diameter washers).   Also, I recommend squirting some PB Blaster on the the day before.

I was able to remove the shaft without removing the rudder. I did have to remove the strut.

The shaft does have a slight wear step at the front of the strut. It suppose it will be an emergency spare of sorts.   I did go ahead and purchase an A.R.E. this A.M.

For install and alignment. Shouldn't I mock install the strut loosely? Then, mount the coupler to the engine, I can let the strut find it's happy place? That should cut down on the alignment job, right?