Shift knob removal resulted in stripped shifter

My old boat had that issue years ago. Not seeing a quick fix to do right I used JB WELD, the original not the JB Quick. The Knob was still fixed in place when I sold it 3 years ago.
Not the best way but it sure did get me back on the water. Give it 24 hours to cure and tape under the knob when you install it. The JB will run for hours as it cures so use the tape to hold it all in the knob as it cures..

Duane in Indy wrote: Mine was aluminum insert in the knob and steel handle.

Mine's the opposite - the throttle lever/shifter is aluminum and the insert in the knob is steel..

Duane in Indy wrote: Pics would be helpful

coming right up.   I'll have the boat here this afternoon and can snap some pics.

I purchased my 1999 SportN a few weeks ago and dove right in... err backed it right in?   Anyway, I bought it knowing that there were a few issues like the RWP being seized and in the course of making that repair uncovered a few other issues like the internally corroded battery cable/terminal and the lack of a raw water strainer.

I thought I had it resuscitated and backed it down the boat ramp, only to end up spending the morning alone, relaxing quietly in the middle of the lake.

I'm in the process of rebuilding my carb, well not really, I'm in the process of drinking coffee and reading this forum and shortly after the coffee I'll hopefully be motivated enough to open the garage.

So, I decided to refinish my shift knob.
I unscrewed the knob and as it screwed off it took all of the aluminum threads with it from the shift lever. The steel knob insert is fine. I suppose the dis-similar metals in a marine environment just didn't get along so well after 17 years.

I'm considering running a die down the threadless nub that is still there, in 1/4-20. and then getting a 1/4-20 to 3/8 adapter so I can use my original shift knob.

I don't want to drop 150 bucks on a shifter. Do any of you have experience with this and am I overlooking a more readily available solution?