Too much grinding |
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13514 |
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Posted: October-04-2016 at 11:23am |
I have a very similar chunk in my garage, but it's just the pylon socket with a mountain of glass around it. The rest of the lower bilge came up in separate pieces after I ground through it in some spots. We all know the proper way to do it now but who knows what was happening at the factory in 1980. Even in 2010 I watched an operator glass in the pylon socket of a SN200, the layup wasn't at all precise...
As I said before, an entire hull layer of roving came up, along with my pylon socket. It didn't matter if the socket was glass down backwards. The hull delaminated along with everything on top of it. BJ also peeled up an entire layer inside his 81 Barefoot. |
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Waterdog
Grand Poobah Joined: April-27-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2020 |
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Foot's got it.
every layer is 1/2 larger than the previous layer. start with 0* (zero) +45, 90*, -45* 0* and so on. 12 Ply lay up X 3 Qusi-isotropic laminate (strong in all directions) |
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Morfoot
Grand Poobah Joined: February-06-2004 Location: South Lanier Status: Offline Points: 5320 |
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Wow...... So when you reinstall that cup and glass it back in. Your first layer of glass should be smaller in area than the next layer. You have a Prime example of a backerds lay up schedule. One HUGE layer on the bottom and a dozen more on top. The bottom layer became disbonded so the WHOLE thing did. By doing the opposite lay up schedule overlapping each consecutive layer by 1/2" or so you'll have 12 layers of glass bonded to the hull instead of just one big one.
Keep up the good work! |
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"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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ThreeG
Newbie Joined: August-28-2016 Location: Cobble Hill, BC Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Hollywood,
Here are some pics of the centre layer removed with the pylon base attached. None of this was attached to the main base of the hull. Under it was quite a bit of water. Sorry for pic rotation....I'm new. |
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13514 |
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Exactly how many layers are you peeling up?
Around the pylon socket there are additional layers other than the original hull build up. We peeled up 1 complete layer of roving on the starboard side. center of bilge to chine. |
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ThreeG
Newbie Joined: August-28-2016 Location: Cobble Hill, BC Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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So,
Basically from behind the rear fin on is still bonded to the main hull. All else has been removed. The pylon base will be re bonded after stringers and such are finished. Man what a can of worms. |
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13514 |
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My 80 Martinique had quite a bit of this too. You'll have to stop somwhere else you'll grind right through the hull. Like Pete said, I got it as clean as possible under and near the stringers and had to live with this in other areas.
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ThreeG
Newbie Joined: August-28-2016 Location: Cobble Hill, BC Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Glass seeker,
I don't think it's a repair as the factory gel coat in the bilge was untouched. I looks to me it is the glass used when the stringers were installed and bonded to the hull. The worst part is front starboard side, I could pull it up by hand. |
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GlassSeeker
Grand Poobah Joined: November-26-2008 Location: Elk Grove, CA. Status: Offline Points: 2421 |
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You may be grinding a previous repair?
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This is the life
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ThreeG
Newbie Joined: August-28-2016 Location: Cobble Hill, BC Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Thanks for the reply, Sounds good. The layer(s) I'm removing seems to go under the ski pylon, Is the pylon bonded to this or the main hull structure? I would rather not remove it as it is my datum for my engine location. What should I expect around the bosses for the fins and drain etc? The layer is also quite thick, like 1cm thick. How thick will a layer of mat then bi axial finish out at when it comes time to replace it?
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Geoff,
I would suggest grinding as much of the added layer of glass off that's disbonded as possible especially where you will be glassing in the new stringers. Welcome to posting and not trolling! Keep the pictures coming and informing us of your progress. |
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ThreeG
Newbie Joined: August-28-2016 Location: Cobble Hill, BC Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Hey Guys,
New member here with my first post. I have been trolling this site for years and love it. You guys have given me the info and confidence to tackle my first nautique resto and so far it has been a good experience....until today. The boat is a 1980 ski and I am mid stringer replacement. After removing the stringers I noticed the matt layer under the stringers was delaminated. I started grinding it back to find solid glass around the pylon base and it seems there is no solid layer. Pics will be more descriptive. My question is should i remove this layer? Or just grind back the bilge to allow for bonding the new stringers? |
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