Perko FlushPro and Raw Water Strainer

For anyone wanting to install the "Timmy T", I got SKU#'s while at work at the HD today.
First, here's Gary's picture:



Here's the HD SKU's

# 190926 is the Tee. It's 1" hose barb x 1/2" pipe.(plumbing dept.)

# 865599 is the brass pipe to hose adaptor.(plumbing dept.)

# 442559 is the valve (garden dept.)

trice wrote: The raw cooling water enters the transmission cooler on top not the bottom, correct?

Correct, from the pickup (to the Timmy-t/Perko) to the strainer, to the top side of the trans cooler.    Out of the bottom of the trans cooler to the inlet of the RWP.


BTW, if your system is working correctly, you cannot see water movement through the clear parts of the system (strainers/perko) .   The only reason you'll see movement is because there is air in the system. You don't want air bubbles, so therefore, while I like that you're checking things, this theory doesn't hold up.    

Thanks!

I was missing the hose routing from the through hull, under the trans, and then up along the right side of the bell housing. I had seen where previously on my boat the water hose from the bottom of the trans cooler had been run along the lower port side of the engine and fastened via a loom to the lower left front of the motor, then ran under the crank pulley to the RWP inlet. Mystery solved!!

Does the location of your T help keep on-land engine run water from deviating towards the through hull more so than a T installed closer and before bending to the right and under the trans?

What kind and where do you get your 1" hose for this system?

My RWP is original but I have cleaned, helicoiled, re-gasketed (both), and replaced the impeller. The soap bubbles should tell the story this spring when I do my first ground run.

By the way, that's one squared away engine and trans!

Well lets see 69 Mustang,77 Shamrock,95 Super Sport. I think it's safe to say slalom wake is not a priority. Look at CC's sales,does not look to be theirs either,the difference between a hand full of plastic or bronze won't make a difference to them. But a dollar vs 10 sure does.

Pete, given a choice, I'll always choose bronze. How much plastic do you have in your boats?

Wow, thanks to everyone!

My RH rotation Ford 351 PCM was removed from the boat when I bought it, it is the first CCSN I've owned, and I can't find clear pictures in the PCM manuals regarding configuration so please correct me if I have something out of place below.

"Original” 1987 CC raw water cooling system components and directional flow from hull intake to RWP inlet (1" wire reinforced hose used):

1. Through hull intake
2. Top of transmission cooler
3. Bottom of transmission cooler
4. Strainer (located near electric panel and rear starboard rocker cover with bowl down), (from strainer outlet, 1" hose downward to run between engine mount and engine block along side the oil pan)
5. RWP inlet (bottom)

The raw cooling water enters the transmission cooler on top not the bottom, correct?

I like the idea of having a clear, see through, strainer or flush pro in the system so you can open the engine cover and visually see water flowing in the system. I'm leaning toward the "by the book" drain and pour winterization method, the cheaper "T" without check valve /shutoff to block the through hall inlet for engine runs, and a clear strainer in the factory location for extra straining and the occasional flow inspection.

A special thanks to those who sent pictures!

Tom

If every component was made of brass or steel, what kind of slalom wake would these boats produce, Gary? Over-engineering has plenty of downsides (cost, weight, etc). I suppose it's a miracle that none of our older, valve-less boats have gone to the bottom! Unnecessary hardware is unnecessary hardware, IMHO.

It official, winter has set in.

Those shut offs should only be closed in emergencies anyway. Don't screw around with it.

Gary S wrote: If you lock your keys in the car or house you never lock it again?

Not a good comparison Gary, but if locking my car was 100% unnecessary and the one time I did, I locked my keys in... yeah, i don't think I would do that anymore!

If you're using the same thick schedule PVC tee that I am, it's more robust than the waste water plumbing in your house... Does that fail often? The plastic elbows/barbs on the strainers CC has installed since 1986 are the same material. You don't hear of them failing. I recommend they be installed above the water line btw, a little gravity feed helps the RWP prime.

If you lock your keys in the car or house you never lock it again?

Gary, a steering wheel is purposeful... I'm not sure I'd say the same for the shut off valve. I used it once on Dad's '03 and promptly fried the impeller.

Trice,
I agree the Timmy Tee is a less expensive way to get the same results. I installed one in my 2002. However, I had a Perko in my now sold 1980 and did not have any issues. I have attached a photo for your review. For a closer look, go to the d*ck Pope wing of the Lego Land / Cypress Gardens Museum in Florida to see the boat currently on display.



I hope this helps,

Donald

I do have a fake-a-lake. If you use one and your in the boat
have someone outside the boat to make sure you don't knock it loose
when moving around in the boat. (Always worried about that)

Thomas,
I don't see where anyone has asked you your intended purpose for the flush or T. You run in fresh water so a fresh water flush isn't needed. If the intent is running the engine out of the water, then it's a great idea. If your thoughts are for winterizing by sucking antifreeze then it's not a good idea. I do not have the Timmy T installed on any of my boats since I've always used the "fake a lake" plunger on the thru hull pick up and without problems. but hear nothing but good reports on the T I also do not have sea strainers on any of the boats but I run in clean weed free water.