Kill switch replacement |
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63 Skier
Grand Poobah Joined: October-06-2006 Location: Concord, NH Status: Offline Points: 4269 |
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Posted: February-06-2017 at 10:58am |
I thought my kill switch was fine and the plastic just was worn and not compressing it enough because I could apply a slight amount of pressure to make contact, and a new lanyard (I keep a spare in the tool box) seemed to fix it. But, with the meter on it I found the switch was so touchy that it was going to keep interrupting power with bouncing/vibration. So, I changed out the switch. I know we are reluctant to toss out parts that are possibly still OK, but sometimes it makes sense to just replace the $20 part and move on.
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'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Arnaud, Instead of guessing, I feel it's best to determine which set of contacts are NO (or NC) by checking continuity with the kill switch lanyard both connected and disconnected. As mentioned, a VOM is a great tool and a basic one is pretty inexpensive but a cheap battery/light bulb continuity tester can be used as well. What was wrong with the original switch? I've seen were the switch is good but the rubber part of the lanyard gets weak with age and no longer depresses the switch plunger anymore. Check your old switch as well. Maybe all that's needed is a new lanyard? No, polarity is not a concern. You are dealing with a simple single contact. |
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ArnaudBel
Newbie Joined: February-05-2017 Location: Belgium Status: Offline Points: 7 |
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oops, I meant I just connect them to NC
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ArnaudBel
Newbie Joined: February-05-2017 Location: Belgium Status: Offline Points: 7 |
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Thanks for the quick responses guys! Now you mention NC and NO, I do remember seeing those on the killswitch, but I just glanced at it and thought it said NO on all 4 pins.
So I just connect the cables to NO? Don't need to worry about polarities, right? I'm rebuilding the carburetor, this winter too. Also I'll be doing some small repairs to the hull (osmosis got ahold of it :/ ) and after that I'll polish it again so that the colours come out like new again! |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Arnaud,
If you don't already know Kristof, here's his contact information. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Arnaud,
I'd like to welcome another Belgium'rs to CCfan. We have several here and I'd say Kristof is the most active. He would be a fantastic resource for you if needed. If you get a chance, post some pictures. We love them! Also a diary entry is always welcomed. Yes on following Todd's recommendation for determining the NO and NC poles in the kill switch. |
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Orlando76
Grand Poobah Joined: May-21-2013 Location: Mount Dora, FL Status: Offline Points: 3108 |
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Are you familiar with a VOM? Just use the ohm meter portion and without the lanyard on find which two terminals read open, then verify the same two terminals read closed when lanyard is installed. I am so glad to see somebody use and maintain a kill switch. I'm so disappointed with the knuckleheads that don't use them.
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ArnaudBel
Newbie Joined: February-05-2017 Location: Belgium Status: Offline Points: 7 |
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Hey there!
I'm doing some small maintenance on my SN '90, one things is the killswitch that just fell off every now and then. So I decided to replace it. The only one I found here in Belgium, is a universal kill switch with 4 pins. Now the thing is, the original kill switch has 2 pins. Does anyone know which 2 pins I need to use? Also, I guess it doesn't matter which cable get connected to which pin, as it should work like an normal ON/OFF switch? thanks in advance and greetings from rainy Belgium! |
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