1st Gen Ski Nautique Y-Block Coupler Removal

Riley wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: skutsch wrote: Pete - can't remember, do you have a dearbo or VD on the Dunphy Steve, I'm lucky, it's got the Velvet. In fact, I was working at Watercraft when the Dearbo went out. The original owner brought it in and we dropped the Velvet in. It had to be around 1968 or 69. You mean it's not original?

Yup, the Velvet isn't the original. What should I do, go find a Dearbo for it? Lets see, I put a new bottom on it and It has new upholstery. The varnish and bottom paint aren't the original ether. I did find a jetson stern light for it since the original is somewhere at the bottom of a lake. The deck vinyl was replaced when I did the upholstery. Let me think, oh, I couldn't get the replacement cartridges of Freon for the horn so I put the CO2 tank and regulator in it. The most important feature that's still original are the two YH side draft carb. You know Bruce, there are some out there that can't figure out how to set the floats in the YH's so they put a downdraft carb on the engine!   

skutsch wrote: Pete - can't remember, do you have a dearbo or VD on the Dunphy

Steve,
I'm lucky, it's got the Velvet. In fact, I was working at Watercraft when the Dearbo went out. The original owner brought it in and we dropped the Velvet in. It had to be around 1968 or 69.

In the (excellent) video, I can see what looks like a decal or tag attached to the center of the transmission mount carrier. Can you make out what it is/what it says?
Thanks

fanofccfan wrote: Nice Video. What do you use for go pro editing?

I use "Vegas Movie Studio Platinum 11.0" - Pretty straight forward, like any software you have to learn it and then it becomes second nature. Unfortunately, I only use about 5% of the features... Here is a screen shot.

Nice Video. What do you use for go pro editing?

I find the fluid gets dirty pretty fast. A lot sooner than a Velvet Drive. I've heard a few people say changing the fluid is important, but apparently not in your case.

Riley wrote: Steve, your dad must have changed that tranny fluid regularly if he's never had a problem with it.

Funny, I don't remember him ever changing it. I know in the 80's it wouldn't go into gear because it was low. That's when we noticed it was spraying fluid all over the inside of the dog house, seal was bad. So he had that replaced. I started maintaining it in the late 2000's and I have only changed it once. Of Course, it I would be surprised if it even has ten hours on it since 2000...

Here are a couple of pictures (from the video):

Transmission and Engine Mount:


Coupler

For some reason I cannot see the pics, but it sounded the same as our 312. The VD's had normal mounts which I was able to find a pair for future use if we ever have to convert. The ARE couplers are a little shorter than a standard coupler.

That's the way the coupler is on our 6 banger Interceptor. I can't see the video, but that boat must have a Dearbo?

8122pbrainard wrote: Are you sure the trans coupling is threaded on? I just took a look at the Deatbo parts sheet and it looks like the coupling is splined.

Sorry should have been more clear. Instead of the two couplers being held together with thru bolts. The trans side is threaded, so the bolt goes thru the shaft side and screws into the threaded holes on the trans coupler.

I think I have to keep it original, not sure I would find an ARE compatible coupler. I will put it back together on a cold night and use the old "Heat the coupler in the oven" trick. Frankenotter doesn't believe it can be done, so I have to at least try. Actually while it is a friction fit, it didn't appear to be as tight as what I have heard in all the horror stories...

Nothing better then a little German Polka music to make the time laps fly on by! Gotta whistle why ya work!

About 3 years ago, my brother and I were out in Dad's boat, at low now wake speed, we developed a SERIOUS rattle in the drivetrain. Diagnosis (after the initial panic) was cutlass bearing, What the hell! Damn thing was original and barely made it 50 years - what a bunch of junk - HA!

Anyway, researched all the cutlass bearing threads, got my threaded rods and socket spacers all set to go, only to open the dog house and find the 1st Gen Ski Nautique with the Y Block motor is a little different then every other boat in all the other cutlass bearing threads...

As we all know, to replace the cutlass bearing you have to remove the prop shaft. To remove the prop shaft, you have to remove the coupler. The recommended method is to use threaded rod and spacers to remove the coupler from the shaft which is installed with a interference or friction fitting.

With the Y-Block, there are a couple of dramatic differences, First the rear engine mounts actually mount to the back of the transmission. The heavy steel plate that spans the stringers completely blocks engine side of the transmission coupler - so no access there to work the threaded rods. Second, the bolts holding the two couplers together actually screw into the transmission coupler, i.e. the coupler is threaded. So I was concerned about stripping out that coupler using bolts and spacers to remove the shaft coupler.

Below is a short video that shows how I solved the problem. Enjoy!