Modern Materials for Stringer Rehab

Alright, alright.... Ill just have to think of something else to get a rise out of you guys now..
I found a 2-ton hoist with 50' of chain for $50.- on craigs list thats now on Greg's list.

Can't wait to start. Ill take plenty of pics when I do.
Cheers to all!

Greg.

I would think that lifting the engine out of the boat would take less time than building up enough cribbing to make it safe to work under the engine.

Not to mention how many bandaids needed when you bang your head on it.

Gneil wrote: . My thought is to block the motor with a temporary cradle of sorts, then remove the old stringers replace/rebuild and then remount.

8122pbrainard wrote: How would you do the needed grinding on the hull under the engine?

Just pull the engine!!

Thanks for the link

Yes, google is our friend, the search button on this site...not so much.

Duane in Indy wrote: You may be interested in looking at my thread "MUSTANG 17 REBUILD". I removed a lot of original weight and built many parts with light weight in mind. I have even built a ski pylon out of aluminum tubing that is exact replica of the 30+ pound original. It is for looks only as I would not trust it for pulling. Plans are to weigh the boat in a week or so and see what the final figure is.   Duane

Couldn't find/access this thread 'MUSTANG 17 REBUILD', but would love to pour through it...

Gneil wrote: Here's a question.... Have you ever heard of any one demoing the stringers with out removing the engine ? Sounds silly, but if I don't need to I'd rather not. G. Neil.

MechGaT wrote: If someone is able to demo stringers without removing the engine I would love to see that. Sounds impossible or at least a really bad idea.

Sounds impossible to me too.
Greg,
What's going to hold the engine in place with your idea? How would you do the needed grinding on the hull under the engine?

MW,
Hey there! Not much to report here I've been hunkered down here with work...sometimes when it rains it pours! All good though I plan to start the demo etc. in about a month. Chomping at the bit. I can't wait to get into it ; ))).

I Have to buy a couple of tools but other than that I'm ready to go. After the demo I will do a precise survey of the hull and map out exactly where the new stringers are going to go. Still leaning toward the Corsa 26 material. "I hate rot"!!! so I'm looking forward to the build and excited to make some little tweeks her and there to utilize that space as best as I can.

Still have not made up my mind in the color scheme. I may just go traditional but thinking of some other options too. Hum... Plenty of time for that stuff. Also thinking of some engine mods. heads, intake manifold, things like that. First things first. (that means stringer and floor demo. I plan to do the wet grind method, complete with a catch basin and filter sys. I have a couple of ideas but thinking about building a temporary heat shrink wrap cover to climate control the elements.

Here's a question.... Have you ever heard of any one demoing the stringers with out removing the engine ? Sounds silly, but if I don't need to I'd rather not.

How everyone had a great winter so far. Spring skiing in right around the corner!
Cheers!
G. Neil.

Gregory, email me or PM me your email address and I will send you the AutoCAD .dwg file Roger created if you want. My EM is CQuinn@GFGR.com. I should probably just send it to Keith also so he could put it in the reference section.

Hey Roger,

Thank you so much for the encouragement. Very important coming from a seasoned fabricator like yourself.

All I can say at this point is that Ill be using an epoxy resin. (West Sys. type) Of the limited research that I've done, this seems to be the easiest to use and has the best compatibility with many dissimilar materials that I will be using for my rebuilding of the stringers and floor. Other than that, it is early days for me and i can tell from this group that the quality bar is so high, I'm not sure I can see it yet.

Thank you for you gracious and inviting words. Cool guys! I'm feeling comfortable already.
Cheers!

I like the color scheme as well. What weight carpet did you end up using? Looks like 32 oz?

Gneil wrote: Hi Duane,Very impressive!!! How do you plan to keep them in one place? Also, if they are light do you plan to put them in and take them out frequently? Your aluminum frame reminds me of early aircraft framed seats. Seems like it would be extremely light. very cool fab' !!! any designs in the upholstery yet?

Rear seat:       bottom hinges and back hooks
Front seat:      hinges

Gneil wrote: I just got off the phone with Sandra at C&S Marine in NJ. She and I had a very productive conversation regarding the design and construction of the new stern seat that i'll have them make for me.

You seem to be weight conscious. I have similar feelings concerning weight. That is why I fabbed up for my stern seat frames, very light aluminum. You may be interested in looking at my thread "MUSTANG 17 REBUILD". I removed a lot of original weight and built many parts with light weight in mind. I have even built a ski pylon out of aluminum tubing that is exact replica of the 30+ pound original. It is for looks only as I would not trust it for pulling. Plans are to weigh the boat in a week or so and see what the final figure is.   Duane

Hey All,
As many here may know, "Coosa advertises 40-60% lighter than ply-wood".
I can't wait for my samples to arrive.

Thank you Joe for providing some clarity. Your experience is valued here.

Good morning Pete,
LVL's are a good source of material that will provide proper structure as a ready-made material. A couple of questions that come to mind, without knowing the answers are; how does the weight of the material and efficiency of the form effect the overall structure? And might there be a modern form with a traditional material, similar to an air plane wing, that would provide a ready made model for this application?
I understand the hull and the floor as doing this with the stringers connecting the two surfaces.

Maybe just food for thought.

Thank you for the tip of ordering the LVL's with out the coating. I'm guessing this will help with the penetration and adhesion of the CPES. Is this also the thought behind thinning the epoxy with acetone?

I also saw the 1 3/4" thickness issue with LVLs. Thanks for the heads up with this.

good morning roger,

Thank you for your encouragement and experience. Part of my thought process and training is to plan and document prior to implementation. Its very hard for me to except a "one off" strategy without documentation, so if not for me maybe this effort will help the next fan. As you cracked the dreaded dust problem, I see the stringer issue as one that still needs some help and opportunity for improvement. As a carpenter you come by this naturally, most do not. Also problem solving is fun, sometimes mad fun!

I truly appreciate the great minds here in this forum and love the enthusiasm in making and then enjoy the fruits of our labor.

The way I see it, if i get a good nights sleep, I'm not overthink it. ...Ha...