prop and prop shaft replacement

-deleted - saw date/resurection

Wow, resurrecting an old post. You can use a dial gauge to check deflection of the shaft with the gauge clamped to the strut. There should be no more than .003 inch deflection. Check aft of the strut (most likely place to bend) and forward of the strut. It is also possible for the strut to get bent.

There are many other posts to help. I actually think Google is a little better than site's search feature.

I am not the prop guy, but the ACME CNC props will outperform the original equipment, and I think the 540 is the one, but I will defer to the experts. The old one can be reconditioned as a spare (Delta props has done two of mine).

Hope that helps.

Yup, we don't mind sharing squat.

Big thankyou to everyone. U guys gave me the confidence to have a go and it came of easy. will be bothering you when the new parts arrive, but i will try everything in reverse first cheers


Boat virgin.

After all this, I'm guessing when he loosens things up the shaft will uncontrolably slide out of the hull and he'll wonder what everyone was talking about!

Sigh!

Craig:

Give it a try, if you wish. 79Nautique is a purist and often disagrees with techniques and tricks of the trade that do not fit within his purist ideals. The "hammering" may not work, but often does. You may find tha that shaft comes out of the hub easily...usaully does.

79nautique wrote: David F wrote: So, I suggest you just snug up the bolts and then firmly tap the hub with a hammer to setup a vibration that will hopefully help "break" the shaft free from the hub. that would work fine if it was a tapered shaft but most orgnial shaft are not tapered and beating on it is going to do nothing but damage. Disconnect the coupling from the output shaft/flange, remove the set screws from the coupling then use a puller to remove the coupling from the shaft then remove the shaft from the hull.

Pure hogwash. Putting pressure or tension on a stuck part and then setting up a vibration frequently allows the part to "break" free. You will notice I said firmly tap, not beat on it. Sheesh!

Of course a puller will work, but not everyone has a puller. And, the tapping works with pullers as well.

David F wrote: So, I suggest you just snug up the bolts and then firmly tap the hub with a hammer to setup a vibration that will hopefully help "break" the shaft free from the hub.

that would work fine if it was a tapered shaft but most orgnial shaft are not tapered and beating on it is going to do nothing but damage.

Disconnect the coupling from the output shaft/flange, remove the set screws from the coupling then use a puller to remove the coupling from the shaft then remove the shaft from the hull.

Caution, I have seen the flange warp easily using the "press out the shaft using the bolts and a socket" method, it took remarkable little torque to cause the damage and its impossible to align the engine afterward. Warp just a few thousanths, then coupling is then junk.

I'm not saying its impossible, but it would have to be only modestly stuck and done with discipline.

Since you need to replace the shaft (I advise against trying to have it straightened)and the prop, then you can forego the prop puller and just remove the shaft with the prop still attached. If you are going to have the prop repaired as a spare, then take the prop and shaft to the prop shop and they will remove the prop for you.

Maybe you are just talking about the safety collar on the shaft. If so, simply loosen the set screw and the collar will slide off the shaft as it is pulled from the boat. You will need to loosen the two set screws at the shaft hub, loosen the collar set screw, loosen the packing jamb nut and cap. Remove the rudder. Pull on the shaft or using a block of wood on the hub of the prop give it a blow with a hammer. Not too hard as you do not want to damage anything in the transmission such as a thrust bearing. If the shaft does not want to pull out of the hub, then you should seperate the hub from the tranny flange. Place a short socket of a diameter just smaller than the shaft between the hub and flange. Using longer bolts, slowly and equally pull the hub and flange back together. This will force the shaft out fo the hub. File off any burrs to the collar and packing nut will clear the shaft end.

PS: I am not familiar with dripless packing seals, so follow others advice related to the drippless packing.

Sounds a bit like a Packless Shaft Seal or something similar, if packless it probably doesnt need to be loosened however you should be careful upon reinstall to not damage it. Don't know about the brass fitting, maybe post us a picture?

I agree with "GottaSki" the guys at skidim.com will take good care of you. I just replaced my 4 blade OJ to the 3 blade Acme #540 on my 84 2001. That prop will run awsome on your boat.
You are going to have to invest in a prop puller, unfortunately this will probably not be the only time you will have to use it.

If the shaft is bent you will have to replace that as well. The guys at Skidim.com will most likely know what you need but generally it is good to know when ordering 1) length 2) shaft diameter 3)coupler diameter and 4) single or double taper. You may have to invest in a puller for the shaft as well.

How is the strut? Was that damaged as well?

Hi just bought a 82 2001. Last weekend we hit a rock, and deformed the prop. A friend tried straightening it and now its beyond repair. He did say the shaft was slightly bent. Is it hard to remove and replace the prop shaft? any instructions would be appreiciated. It is just every marine engineer is working in France for the next month, and i spent money I didn't have to buy the boat. Still best buy I ever made. thanks for reading hope some one can help