Ready to pull out the original351

outerbanked wrote: The angle of the rings or piston top would be the same as the angle of the lower edge of your heads.

These are 90* engines. 45* each side.
ref:   With piston at the bottom it would take about 13 oz. to cover it. Some pistons will be near the top and the valves would be open so it would not hold that amount before spilling out. Just like KenO says, pour some in and be done with it.
My guess is that you will have to pull it apart anyway

Maybe use 20% Kroil, 30% acetone, 26% ATF, 20% MMO, and 4% Miller Lite.

Honestly, as Ken said, just slap some in there and you'll be fine. It's not complex.

A couple squirts isnt going to fill enough to keep it soaking for any period of time. i almost want to fill an 1/8 of the cylinder. Thats more long term, Then its sitting over entire ring and piston every time I work the crank. Heading out now just got the camera. Updates soon

Easiest way is to use an old style pump oil can. Doesn't have to be any specific amount, just squirt it in every direction through the plug hole, it will find it's way around the entire ring. I'd do 5 or 6 squirts per cylinder, whatever that amounts to.

Kano Kroil Penetrating Oil and Bore Cleaning Solvent is the oil that creeps. Kroil is used by the most accuracy-obsessed benchrest shooters to keep their barrels clean. Kroil creeps below the fouling in your barrel, allowing you to knock it out easily with a patch or brush. For best results when working with rusted or frozen gun parts, allow 24 hours for Kroil to penetrate. Just throwing this out there. Thanks for the input guys

Duane in Indy wrote: KROIL OIL. I keep it around in a gallon size and put it in a pump oiler. Little harder to find but I like it the best.

Not really

63 Skier wrote: Ken, not a fan of MMO, huh! In your experience, is there anything that tends to dissolve/remove the rust once the engine is freed up? I've tended to just run them, but have wondered if there was a way to kind of "chemically hone" the cylinder.

Have had my best experience un-sticking tractor engines using KROIL OIL. I keep it around in a gallon size and put it in a pump oiler. Little harder to find but I like it the best.

Keno, I agree. Think ill do that first then enough MMO to cover the top of the piston. Let it all sit for a few days and each day try to exercise the crank and see what happens

A spray can of penetrating oil works pretty well too as previously mentioned by tryathlete and why limit yourself to 1 ounce per cylinder,

Spray it in good with one of those little red tubes to distribute it around better

And you can rock it back and forth to get things moving. Turning it backwards won't hurt anything.

If it breaks free, hook up a small temporary can of gas to the fuel pump when you want to start it if you have water in the gas as you said..

And the sooner you do this the better

63 Skier, I was thinking that as well.My concerns are the possible wall scaring. Not sure what the extent of rust is. Might just use wifes boriscope and look in each cylinder. I havent seen MMO or used it in years.Is it still at the local parts store? Might just hit amazon for some later tonight. Also,the oil is still oil. not a milk shake. The more I think about ,Im going to try it. It wont hurt. Not really any added cost. This is why I like this site.People are actualy helpful and comunicate. Thanks for the input. Itll atleast save some money if it works.
           

Could I humbly make a suggstion? Since you plan to pull and replace it anyway, and since even with the new engine you need to drain the fuel tank anyway ....... The following would take a few hours and very few dollars and might be worthwhile.

Pull all 8 spark plugs. Pick up a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil and squirt an ounce into each cylinder. Leave it that way for a day, then see if you can turn the engine by hand with a breaker bar and socket. If not, squirt a bit more and wait a few days and do the same. The engine will end up turning, you can continue to turn until no unusual resistance is felt, then even spin it over with the starter a bit. Replace spark plugs, make sure you have good fuel, check the dipstick to make sure oil is oil and not a milkshake, and go ahead and start it. Assuming it starts and runs, you'll find out if you have water intrusion, also can shut it down and then do a compression test.

Engines are machined parts with close tolerances, but they at times can have a remarkable ability to clean themselves up and run just fine after some abuse. Sometimes anyway.

Went to start it up and realized it has water in fuel. Before I could address the issue I had to leave town for work. Water in cylinder walls sat and rusted rings to the walls. I could probably fix it with some elbow grease but it's probably better to put all new in.

     well cleaned out the leaves and pulled the interior out. next will be the engine.This will give me a chance to put the right interior back in it as well. It will be a slow process,but I"ll post progress pics . Any pointers will be appreciated.