Lets talk accelerator pump adj

the cable is easy to disconnect and nothing to lose. The end is spring loaded and you slide the sleeve back and then it will come right off of the throttle lever on the carb.

keep in mind that i installed the ie, retimed the motor and leaned it out all in the same weekend - so i dont know which of those would have the greatest impact on top end just that its running very well on the topend and hesitating out of the hole.

GottaSki -
Gosh No im not messing with the jets - just getting the adjustment on the spring to spec. We'll see if that helps, i'm hoping it does. not really interested in opening this thing up - i've always been apprehensive to get inside a carb, but i'll do it if i have to. Your other diagnosis suggestions were right in line with the manual

nuttyskier2002 -
before i leaned this thing out my plugs showed signs of being way to rich - i could actually smell the fuel. after leaning it out i pulled the plugs the first couple of times to see how they looked and they looked good. Sincerely appreciate the warning and what your stressing on this.


79 -
i didnt want to disconnect the throttle if i didnt have to, too many parts that may fall into my turkey and water (beer doenst get me where im going quick enough - especially in OK with a 3.2 limit). Plus it gives me a chance to show the kid what i'm doing and take turns with him sticking our noses into the butterfly. I wait on him to do lot on this old boat that are one man jobs just so i can impress him with my ignorance.

I'm calm checking the accel pump is a one man job done with the engine off and the shifter doesn't have to be move to do it, you just have to disconnect it at the carb so that you can run the throttle while looking down the carb, pretty basic stuff, so if your not getting a steady stream for the full stroke moving it slowly then it's not adjusted right or the diaphram is bad end of story, and you never want to run a holley carb on the lean side to start with or any carb for that matter, on a holley it max vaccum, a q-jet or edlebrock are a little easier if you know what your doing.

man..... following instructions is hard, more beer needed I guess.. disconnect and move throttle.....nobody said move the shifter,

If it doesn't work right with out it running then having it running isn't going to fix it or make a difference.

The accelarator pump is mechanical doesn't require vaccum to test stroke or adjustment.

There is a check ball under the diaphram that might not be sealing well, allowing the fuel to drain back and the circuit fills with air; air must be dosplaced before you see fuel.

Some units may have additional check ball under the nozzle, I'm not certain.

On older carbs there are also o-rings on the little accel pump transfer tube that may be suspect, also. That is between the metering black and carb body.

You could always donate if you haven't already.

You need two wrenches.

Often the step that gets lost in the translation is to do this adjustment at WOT. Many people dial in their hesitation to remarkable precision.

Done the correct way there is no slop in the linkage at idle, and the .015 clearance is so it doesn't mechanically bind at WOT.

the first thing to look at is if it is squirting gas for the whole stroke of the throtle. disconnect the cable and manually move the throttle on the carb while holding the top butterfly open and looking for gas to squirt out of both front barrels for the full stroke of the throttle if there is a slight pause before it squirts gas while moving the throttle then it needs to come on sooner and needs adjusted. If it squirts gas as soon as the throttle is moved then you need to look at the timing and/or richen up the idle curcuit so it doesn't stumple coming off of the idle curcuit in the carb.