New Project boat. 74 Mustang 17

So the drive train problem is solved! Yesterday I picked up a rebuilt RR PCM 351 with rebuilt velvet drive from a guy that rebuilt the whole thing and found out the boat was rotten and gave up on the boat. It had been sitting (properly stored) for a few years in the garage, and he just wanted it gone it seems. As much as I was looking forward to rebuilding something myself, having this be "drop in ready" is pretty nice. We ran it on the stand and it sounds very nice. Complete running motor with all reman accessories for less than a reman long block from one of the online rebuilders. Add to that a rebuilt trans and I'm a happy camper for sure. Now it's time to get itchy with some glass work!

Basketcase wrote: zwoobah wrote: No replacement for displacement! Costs on building a 351 should be similar to building a 302. You can likely sell your existing 302 bits for the same cost as used 351 bits. Not much left of my 302 to sell. lol.

Are you sure it can't be salvaged?

Basketcase wrote:

Basketcase wrote:

No replacement for displacement! Costs on building a 351 should be similar to building a 302. You can likely sell your existing 302 bits for the same cost as used 351 bits.

I’m just shooting my mouth off but I think the original plan of a late model engine would be the way to go something like an explorer with the side benefit of having GT P heads. Kens got a part number for for the correct flywheel. What happened to the 351 idea?

I never was successful with that scenario and 2 piece seal. After the second try I was told to use a rope seal which is what is in there now. Keep in mind this was before the internet. Rope seals are difficult to find now as well. If I was to attempt this again I would seriously think about having my block machined for a 1 piece seal. Either search hard for a RR seal or try a premium non wicked seal and see what happens IMHO.

Ok. So I'm still looking at my options. I'm finding a fair amount of older 2 piece seal 302 motors in standard rotation. A local machine shop says they machine off the knurling, add a sleeve and run the crank smooth with the 2 piece seal. What do we think of that? I did find a post from someone that had done it and was working fine. Anyone have any input or experience with doing that?

The distributors don't interchange

The flywheel and harmonic balancer from the 302 of that time frame were 28 oz imbalance and will work on the 351

The timing cover will interchange, you want to use the one from the 302 (if you have a marine 351 it would be the same cover) They're different from the auto versions mainly because they have a boss for mounting the raw water pump bracket that the auto ones don't.

The RR starter from the 302 will work

The bellhousing is the same also.

Exhaust manifolds are the same

Engine and transmission mounts are the same

302's usually had a 450 cfm Holley, the 351's had a 600 cfm Holley

Cam and lifters could be reused if there was no damage from all the debris flying around when things broke.

Like you said, you need a new intake.

Alternator wiring harness etc from the 302 will work

Risley00 wrote: Hi TRBenj, "Vintage cc with lefty = dangerous. Serious chine locker." The one we're restoring is a 76 CC Tique, we are starting to debate rotation- what is "chine locker"? I'm an avid waterskier and he's good with engines- but when we get her in the water I want to have many an excellent ski run behind her. Thanks for the extra knowledge!

When the boat is designed, the decision of which side the helm is put on, plus some subtle hull design details, are done with the prop rotation in mind. I'm not sure on the older hulls if there is much if any hull asymmetry involved, but they have narrower beams than newer boats and so are much more sensitive to reactions from prop rotation. I think what Tim and others here have found is that it's not just the torque lean from the rotation, which you can feel if you rev the engine in neutral, but at high speed you've got steering issues as well causing it to chine lock. Chine lock at high speed means the boat tries to turn hard and stop at the same time as the engine is trying to make it go fast and the result is everyone being thrown hard into one side of the boat, or ejected.

The more I've read here over the years, the more convinced I am that there's really never a good reason to change the original designed rotation.

I do think the boat is worthy of restoration.

I'm noticing that reverse rotation rear main seal are readily available for a 351.....I think I would only need a camshaft and intake manifold. I wonder how much the extra half inch deck height really effects the motor box clearance.

Risley,
In your other thread, I asked what's up with the original engine? If at all possible, stick with the RR engine. If "he" is good with engines, tell him parts for a RR engine can be placed into another standard rotation engine making it a RR.

Chine lock is when the chine (the intersection of the hull side to the hull bottom) digs into the water causing the boat to roll/flip. NOT good!

Hi TRBenj,
"Vintage cc with lefty = dangerous. Serious chine locker." The one we're restoring is a 76 CC Tique, we are starting to debate rotation- what is "chine locker"? I'm an avid waterskier and he's good with engines- but when we get her in the water I want to have many an excellent ski run behind her.

Thanks for the extra knowledge!

See the thread in the link, page 4 the 4th post from the bottom there's a post by Reid P saying he had 25 of them in 2011.

Numerous people on here know him and could probably put you in touch with him or you could email him thru the site.

He hasn't been logged on in about a year, so a PM won't do much good.
link

Are you implying they are made from Unobtanium?

Got it! Thanks for the info, Gary. Super helpful.

Gary S wrote: If it were me I'd look for a 97-01 5.0 explorer engine or if not easily available a 5.0 out of a '93 and down Mustang or '91 and down Crown Vic/Grand Marquis. Use your manifold,flywheel,harmonic balancer,distributor,oil pan etc and have at it. With all those parts flying around you might not be able to use the original cam either but RR cams can still be sourced. Might be wise with that mixture of parts to have it balanced as well

I notice you exclude the F150s. Is there a reason for that, or will the truck motors work as well?