Fuel Pump

KENO - Boom, $58. Thanks for the shop around advise!

So ..........back to our regularly scheduled programming, for hdfooter you can order the pump and like has been mentioned by more than one person the inlet won't line up but it's an easy fix with a little hose if you don't have a long enough piece already.

Then on the outlet you can leave it as is or clock things, either way it won't line up like the original..

And then it's your choice of how you adapt the pump outlet to the carburetor.

You maybe can bend your existing line enough, make a new metal line or use USCG approved rubber hose and fittings. It makes no difference to me

You also might shop around a little and you might find a Carter M60502 for around 65 bucks or so

There is USCG approved rubber fuel line (assuming that the advert is true...)

LINK to USCG rubber fuel line

JQ

TRBenj wrote: Ken have you confirmed that the replacement GM pump can be clocked? That seems to be the implication, just confirming. Like you mentioned, the outlet (hard line) is really the only concerning piece... the orientation of the inlet (soft hose) should be relatively inconsequential.

Yes, it can be clocked

You take out the 6 screws and rotate the valve section and lower housing together and screw it back together.

You can go 60 degrees at a time, some old ones had 12 holes in the fuel pump body, so you could go 30 degrees at a time but the newer foreign made ones like this only have 6 holes.

So in this case he could only have the outlet at the 7 o'clock or 5 o'clock position but not the original pumps 6 o'clock position.

Ken have you confirmed that the replacement GM pump can be clocked? That seems to be the implication, just confirming.

Like you mentioned, the outlet (hard line) is really the only concerning piece... the orientation of the inlet (soft hose) should be relatively inconsequential.

hdfooter wrote: Will I need to get an extra gasket if I turn it?

If you can clock the pump you get, then you will not need a gasket. The rubber diaphragm acts as the gasket.

Will I need to get an extra gasket if I turn it?

Hose barb on the outlet, hold on to your hat!

454 lucky dog.

hdfooter wrote: If the one on Skidim is the correct one, for $108, to me, it’s easier to replace then rebuild.

The one on SkiDim will fit just fine on the engine, but if you read the notes about the clocking of the inlet and outlet on the linked page below, you may be having to redo your line from the pump to the carburetor due to the clocking difference. Outlet at 7 o'clock position, inlet at 9 o'clock position.

The inlet side should have enough hose for any relocation necessary.

link

Fellas, I’m not sure how to attach pics.

hdfooter wrote: KENO - believe it or not, under direction from a buddy of mine and against my better judgement, we tried that. As soon as the poured in gas was consumed, it died instantly. We tried that 4 times. After the same results each time, that’s when we checked the front and rear fuel compartments on the carb, they were bone dry.

Sounds like you'l be replacing a pump then, or rebuilding the original

I think I like your buddy's approach.

Since you say it's a mechanical pump, not knowing what you've done so far, it sounds like you're trying to start it after 2 years or so.

If that's the case squirt some gas down the carburetor and get the engine running this way.

It will probably die and take a few tries or more this way and it may stay running. The pump will suck a lot better when the engine is actually running and revved up compared to cranking over without starting.

It may be a waste of time doing this if the pump is dead, but it only takes a few minutes and is worth a try.

I can think of better working conditions that what you'll have changing that pump on a V drive BFN   

Can you tell by a pic? I’m sure it’s obvious that I’m not a mechanic, but know just enough to get me in trouble. I appreciate the info you’ve given me thus far.

The front and rear fuel chambers on the carb are bone dry.